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Old Feb 09, 2013, 08:55 PM
13brv3's Avatar
Navarre, FL
Joined Mar 2002
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The UAP2 is here!

Greetings,

One thing led to another, and the task of adding the UAP2 ended up being a huge task. Probably 75% of the items on the shop ended up being modified in some way, and I've spent nearly the whole week trying to get this straightened out. I ended up making new builders manuals for both the UAP1, and UAP2, but don't expect to see correct pictures for all the frame configurations anytime soon

Biggest news is the UAP2 kit is now online! This is something people have wanted for a while, and now it's (finally) here. The kit uses larger 8-1/8" plates, larger 21.5mm tubes, and is actually cheaper than the UAP1 used to be!!!

The other significant bit of news is that the UAP1 kit has been reconfigured. I've reduced the kits to 3 main plates, rather than 4, since the UAP2 will be the choice for anyone wanting more plate space to put gear. That helped with the price, but I've also reduced the UAP1 block prices, so the overall UAP1 kit prices have gone way down. The kits now include removable arm blocks standard, since they also help with frame stiffness.

The CF tubes are really news now, but all sizes are listed. It's funny how small the 16mm tubes look now that I'm used to handling the 21.5mm size.

Cheers,
Rusty (AQ testing is next in the queue)
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 10:35 AM
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congrats Rusty! that is awesome. your frame continues to be my favorite "it can be anything you want" frame.

so to be clear, the UAP1 is just a "larger UAP1" with larger tubes right?
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 12:22 PM
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>>so to be clear, the UAP1 is just a "larger UAP1" with larger tubes right?<<

LOL Rusty better not hear that. He spent months trying to figure out how to make the UAP2. Well yes, it is another frame with center plates, boom blocks and arms. However the UAP2 gave Rusty some challenges. Most of them just flew over my head. So I would have to think that he did put quite a bit of thoughts into the UAP2. It is most likely not simply an enlargement of the UAP1.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 12:24 PM
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Sorry, didn't mean to seem like it was just a larger version. I'm sure a ton of work went into the new design. I was just reading from the site and couldn't quite tell all the differences, that's all
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 12:39 PM
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I would have must stuck my copter on a copy machine and set it to enlarge. But then that's probably why I'm not designing frames.

Hmm, I wonder how much weight a paper copter could handle...
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 01:15 PM
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United States, CA, San Diego
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This looks great. I love the extra space and rigidity this frame is going to allow. Time to convert my current y6 to a smaller quad for my autoquad board + BL gopro gimbal and a bigger Y6 with this frame and my HF Pro.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 08:57 PM
13brv3's Avatar
Navarre, FL
Joined Mar 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BayAreaCrasher View Post
Sorry, didn't mean to seem like it was just a larger version.
The funny thing is that my first version of larger plates was just an enlarged version. Then I scrapped it, and went to different layouts, then ultimately scrapped those and went back to the original. So yes, it IS just a larger version, but I did trash a couple hundred dollars of material trying other ideas before confirming that's what I wanted to do

Don't get me started on the blocks... I've made 4 versions, and killed quite a few Delrins along the way.

Rusty (frantically cutting blocks as I type)
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 10:46 PM
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Rusty, I just saw that you have a PDB available. Have you tested that to it's upper limits and know what that is?
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 01:06 AM
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Navarre, FL
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Originally Posted by jcmonty View Post
Rusty, I just saw that you have a PDB available. Have you tested that to it's upper limits and know what that is?
The current limit of the PDB is a common question, with no good answer. It all depends on how you solder the wires. If you put them as far apart as possible, it won't have the current limit that it will if you put them all near each other in the same big pile of solder.

I solder the battery in the center, and the ESCs around the edge, and it's been no problem for Avrotos. That being said, I'm going to be switching from 1oz copper PCB to 2oz on the next batch, so maybe I can advertise "double the current capacity". At least it's an honest claim

Rusty
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 02:54 PM
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Hi all. I've been spending an unreasonable amount of time reading on this and other forums. Thanks to all of you for sharing so much knowledge. It's very overwhelming and interesting!

I'm about to build my first multirotor after flying a blade mqx around for a few weeks. I've decided to build the UAP2 Y6 and UG-1 2 axis gimbal. I'll be shooting still photos with a GH3 and also play/practice with video. After considering many different frame options and budget ranges I like the concept behind Rusty's frames. Tough, simple, well supported, and flexible. Seems like a great way to get started for me - something easy and inexpensive to repair!

I have a couple questions, not surprisingly.

- For those of you flying a rusty Y6, roughly how long does it take to disassemble the frame if I needed to pack it into a pelican case. I'm thinking just removing the landing gear, UG-1 gimbal, and arms should be enough. Is the UAP2 frame quicker to disassemble?

- I've attached a graphic of my shopping cart from Rusty's site. I just placed the order but if you see anything I missed or mismatched please let me know. I have 7 avroto 2814 motors, 6 rc timer 30A ESCs, and 8 APC 12x3.8 slow flyer props coming from another rcgroups user.

And if you would be so kind, I'd really appreciate suggestions on the rest of the gear I'm going to be needing as well. I'm pretty much starting from scratch except I picked up a DX7s and a full MK okto XL electronics package (2 x FC, GPS w/shield, Navi ctrl, BL, PD board etc) on a great deal which I'm thinking I should just sell and get something like a Naza, Hoverfly or APM 2.5.

The other little items I know I'll be needing:
- battery charger and power supply
- batteries (sounds like this zippy 4s 45C 5000mah is a good choice) I think I'll go for 4 batteries.
- servos for the gimbal (I'll try and sort this out on the rusticwave gimbal thread I guess)
- receiver for my radio
- Transmitter/receiver for the camera's view
- Display for camera view (would like to mount on my radio)

- What else am I missing? I'm sure plenty!

If you know of any good build logs that are similar to what I'm doing, I'd appreciate the link. I know much of this has been discussed before but it can be hard for a beginner like me to decipher what is and is not applicable to my goals.

Thanks again for all of your help.
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Last edited by photism; Feb 14, 2013 at 03:45 PM. Reason: Made the order.
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 03:08 PM
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United States, MI, Wyoming
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The woman has given me the go ahead to Build an X8 UAP2. She plans on purchasing a Zenmuse for a gimbal (I was going to get a AG600/700). For those familiar with both do I need a Damper kit? and if so what one would be recommended?
Also need some advice on what legs/landing gear.
I was also originally looking at Avroto 2814 or Tiger motors MT3515-15 and ZTW 30A ESC- SimonK but I'm open to suggestions.
Feel free to point me in any direction I have a month to plan this build out

CF Tube 21.5mm x 19.5mm Length: 13 inches (330 mm)
PD-1 Power Distribution
UAP2 X8 Frame-Motor Mount Type: Anti-Vibration Mounts (Avroto)
UAP 8 Damper Kit?
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Last edited by Ryan5508; Feb 14, 2013 at 01:12 AM. Reason: changed everything
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 01:26 AM
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Using Tiger MT3515-15 with 6s lipo
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photism View Post
- For those of you flying a rusty Y6, roughly how long does it take to disassemble the frame if I needed to pack it into a pelican case. I'm thinking just removing the landing gear, UG-1 gimbal, and arms should be enough. Is the UAP2 frame quicker to disassemble?
I dont know about that UAP2, but with the UAP1 the arm mounts are sort of thecore of the frame structure. Depending on how you put the center sections together and what electronics are mounted you might not be able to access the screws for the arm blocks without removing a few layers of plates above it. If you can get to the blocks and pull the arms out I suppose it would be simple enough to replace the arms with some dowels of the same diameter to keep the center section rigid.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by epyonxero View Post
I dont know about that UAP2, but with the UAP1 the arm mounts are sort of thecore of the frame structure. Depending on how you put the center sections together and what electronics are mounted you might not be able to access the screws for the arm blocks without removing a few layers of plates above it. If you can get to the blocks and pull the arms out I suppose it would be simple enough to replace the arms with some dowels of the same diameter to keep the center section rigid.
I put all my electronics on an extra plate above the core section and use Mini Deans for all wires between the sections. This makes it easy to remove the top section and then have good access to the screws that hold the arms. Make sure you use the removable arm blocks. It just takes a few minutes then to disassemble and reassemble the arms.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by photism View Post
I'm about to build my first multirotor after flying a blade mqx around for a few weeks. I've decided to build the UAP2 Y6 and UG-1 2 axis gimbal.
This is clearly a big project you are jumping into. Make sure you don't under estimate the time you need to make all of this work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by photism View Post
I have 7 avroto 2814 motors, 6 rc timer 30A ESCs, and 8 APC 12x3.8 slow flyer props coming from another rcgroups user.
Once you have the copter flying and got a feeling for it, you might want to try Graupner 11x5. They are much more expensive, but easy to balance, less vibrations and less noisy. They produce a little less thrust though.


Quote:
Originally Posted by photism View Post
- battery charger and power supply
You need a lot of big batteries and probably want to charge them fast in your job. You will need enough power to supply appropriate charge rates. Check out the Cellpro PowerLab 6 EC5 Combo 7 that let you charge multiple (same type) batteries at the same time. You can get a good but cheap power supply from here. Choose the 24V47A power supply.

Quote:
Originally Posted by photism View Post
batteries (sounds like this zippy 4s 45C 5000mah is a good choice) I think I'll go for 4 batteries.
Battery capacity depend a lot on your weight, motors and props. Adding more battery capacity will not increase flight time at some point, so there is an optimum for each copter. To save some money, I suggest you just buy two of the batteries first (maybe even smaller ones like 4000mAh). Then once you are flying and know your final payload, record the flight time and add some extra weight to simulate additional battery weight. Calculate what the 'extra' battery capacity will bring you in flight time and then decide on your final batteries.

I'm using 2x4000mAh Nano Tech 35C lips with Avroto, 11x5 Graupners and 4kg/9lbs on my Y6 which gives me around 7 min. flight time with 20-25% left in the batteries.

Quote:
Originally Posted by photism View Post
Transmitter/receiver for the camera's view
I'm using Immersion RC 5.8 GHz, 600 mW Tx and the Immersion Duo 5800 Rx with 5.8 GHz Circular Wireless Long Range Antenna Combo (ReadyMadeRC). Works pretty well. If you want to use your camera HDMI port, you need an HDMI converter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by photism View Post
Display for camera view (would like to mount on my radio).
I'm using the Pirate Eye video classes and really like them. You can fly LOS and still see the video image, or you can fly whole FPV sessions by closing your left eye. The advantage compared to std. googles is that you can easily look down at your radio when you need to use some of your switches or knobs, e.g. for the camera tilt. With FPV googles you are kind of blind, which at least for me I found difficult. When you fly over water and your adrenaline is up, you easily hit the wrong switch
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