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Old Aug 15, 2011, 04:40 PM
Going to Plan C
Joined May 2011
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Originally Posted by SeismicCWave View Post
Dremel tool with number 409 cut off disks and sand to shape/size.
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Originally Posted by jesolins View Post
Hi,
Try this great multifunction tool for producing less dust: http://www.harborfreight.com/oscilla...ODAyOCJ9Cheers,
...but still wear a good mask! CF dust is nasty stuff to breathe...a carcinogen.
Cheers,
Jim
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Thanks for the info. You guys are great like having you on speed dial or something.
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Old Aug 15, 2011, 07:05 PM
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USA, MI, Grand Rapids
Joined Jul 2010
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Can anyone confirm what are the proper motor mounts for RCTimer 2830-14 motors? I am guessing they fit on the Small pre-drilled but I am not positive.
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Old Aug 15, 2011, 07:23 PM
13brv3's Avatar
Navarre, FL
Joined Mar 2002
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Originally Posted by Furner View Post
Can anyone confirm what are the proper motor mounts for RCTimer 2830-14 motors? I am guessing they fit on the Small pre-drilled but I am not positive.
Yep, it appears to have the classic 16/19 hole spacing, so the small pre-drilled mount will work dandy. You'll just need to get long enough screws (not flat head) to go through the 1/8" mount.

In other news, I couldn't resist making a version of the new plates with the OP/CC holes in the center. That will allow the OP folks to mount the FC directly instead of using the FC plate. It will also allow the MK size folks to use a much smaller adapter, which already exists in the shop for the exact opposite purpose.

Cheers,
Rusty (no idea why I couldn't resist...)
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Old Aug 15, 2011, 07:44 PM
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USA, MI, Grand Rapids
Joined Jul 2010
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Originally Posted by 13brv3 View Post
Yep, it appears to have the classic 16/19 hole spacing, so the small pre-drilled mount will work dandy. You'll just need to get long enough screws (not flat head) to go through the 1/8" mount.

In other news, I couldn't resist making a version of the new plates with the OP/CC holes in the center. That will allow the OP folks to mount the FC directly instead of using the FC plate. It will also allow the MK size folks to use a much smaller adapter, which already exists in the shop for the exact opposite purpose.

Cheers,
Rusty (no idea why I couldn't resist...)
Gotcha. I think those are M3, I work in IT so I have a ton of M3 stuff.
Thanks!
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Old Aug 15, 2011, 11:14 PM
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United States, TN, Brentwood
Joined Oct 2010
562 Posts
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Originally Posted by jesolins View Post
Hi,
Try this great multifunction tool for producing less dust: http://www.harborfreight.com/oscilla...ODAyOCJ9Cheers,
...but still wear a good mask! CF dust is nasty stuff to breathe...a carcinogen.
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
My $0.02:

Hacksaw with a 24 teeth/inch blade is the best option. I read this elsewhere, and tried it out because I am cheap, and because I have a paranoia about tiny particles. That is, whenever I get the slightest amount of CF dust on my hands (from handling the ends of rods I bought pre-cut) that stuff itches like CRAZY. So I'm thinking wow, that would be some bad stuff in my lungs.

Then, I watch a dremel cut through those things and holy smokes - dust everywhere!!

So I'm cutting with a hacksaw and trying to be really careful -- wearing a mask and eye protection, holding the rod in a little 'jig' to make sure my cut is perfectly straight -- and the rods start to *grab* hold of the blade with every stroke! Ugh! It takes every bit of energy I have just to cut six arms.

Later, I crash, and break a couple arms, so I have to cut again. But this time it is hot, and I'm in a bad mood. So I just place the rod in a groove on the bench on my deck with one end of the rod hanging off the edge of the bench. I put my foot on the other end to hold it in place - but of course I have the eye protection and mask on. I start cutting and that rod starts grabbing again . . . until the last stroke, where the weight of the rest of the rod started pulling the cut open. . . .

So the next cut, I applied the slightest amount of pressure to the cantilevered end.

Cut through that rod in about 5 seconds with 4 strokes! That's right, I just told the world that it took me that long to figure out how to cut something with a saw!!

Sure, the cut is not perfect, but it doesn't have to be -- the ends of the rod are hidden when using Rusty's frame.

Last time I cut rods, I didn't even feel the need to wear the mask! (I still wash the ends with a water hose and LOTS of water.)

Of course, Goodwinds will cut the rods to whichever length you wish. I recommend keeping extra stock on hand. Nothing calms the burn of an arm-breaking-crash better than a 5-minute replacement!!
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Old Aug 16, 2011, 10:43 AM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
14,408 Posts
...Or you could just wear a surgical mask, safety goggles and rubber gloves and put a wet towel over the CF and cut the rods with this $7 Xacto razor saw: http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CDAQ8wIwAA#
BTW, does anyone remember a great RCG Gent the went by ASKMAN aka Andrey who made some great CF helicopter camera mounts? RIP-lung cancer-CF dust... http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=35331
Cheers,
Jim
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Old Aug 16, 2011, 04:38 PM
aka Helidaho
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United States, ID, Boise
Joined Jun 2010
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Stupid question... Does the Rev8 frame support a Y frame config? I thought I read on here that it does but I can't seem to find the correct hole pattern for a Y frame.

Thanks,
Paul
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Old Aug 16, 2011, 04:41 PM
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Hawaii
Joined Feb 2003
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Originally Posted by Helidaho View Post
Stupid question... Does the Rev8 frame support a Y frame config? I thought I read on here that it does but I can't seem to find the correct hole pattern for a Y frame.

Thanks,
Paul
If you can make a hex configuration you can make a Y6.
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Old Aug 16, 2011, 05:34 PM
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Navarre, FL
Joined Mar 2002
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Originally Posted by Helidaho View Post
Stupid question... Does the Rev8 frame support a Y frame config? I thought I read on here that it does but I can't seem to find the correct hole pattern for a Y frame.

Thanks,
Paul
Hi Paul,

It's a surprisingly common question. What's throwing people off is the inner block holes for 4 of the hexa arms (2 of the Y6 arms). They use holes that are on a slightly smaller diameter circle. Attached is a Rev-7 picture, but the block holes are the same as the inner blocks on the Rev-8.

Rusty
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Old Aug 16, 2011, 06:10 PM
aka Helidaho
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United States, ID, Boise
Joined Jun 2010
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Originally Posted by SeismicCWave View Post
If you can make a hex configuration you can make a Y6.
Hey I'm an art major, don't try this fancy dancy math on me

Quote:
Originally Posted by 13brv3 View Post
Hi Paul,

It's a surprisingly common question. What's throwing people off is the inner block holes for 4 of the hexa arms (2 of the Y6 arms). They use holes that are on a slightly smaller diameter circle. Attached is a Rev-7 picture, but the block holes are the same as the inner blocks on the Rev-8.

Rusty
Ahhh, thanks.. found it!

Paul
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Old Aug 16, 2011, 08:39 PM
Eat-Sleep-Work-Fly-Repeat
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Canada, NL, Division No. 9
Joined Mar 2011
689 Posts
Rusty: Dome me, and check your email I need something to top off the chassis.

I've read about GPS units having brown outs due to objects covering them. Any truth to this at all? Should it be mounted off to the side on an accessory plate or something?
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Old Aug 16, 2011, 08:47 PM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
14,408 Posts
Hi,
GPS signals have no problem going through cotton, nylon, plastic or glass. Any other material such as wood, Carbon Fibre and any metals, will attenuate the signal.
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grips View Post
Rusty: Dome me, and check your email I need something to top off the chassis.

I've read about GPS units having brown outs due to objects covering them. Any truth to this at all? Should it be mounted off to the side on an accessory plate or something?
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Old Aug 16, 2011, 09:12 PM
13brv3's Avatar
Navarre, FL
Joined Mar 2002
3,829 Posts
What Jim said...

I'm sure there's still a tiny bit of attenuation with almost any material, but not enough to cause problems. CF would be a problem I think, even though you'd think of it as plastic.

As for the domes, it's agonizing to wait for stuff... When I finally get them, and if they look like they'll work, then we'll still be in for another 2-3 weeks to get more. Of course you could order some from the link I mentioned earlier, and try them yourself.

Rusty
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Old Aug 16, 2011, 09:17 PM
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Boston, MA
Joined Jul 2010
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Originally Posted by 13brv3 View Post
Thanks for all the great info! I found a picture of the D/W mounting plate on their site, so at least I see how it mounts.

Would the holes fall completely outside the Rev-8 6.5" plate, or would they hit the edge? If they're completely off the plate, it would be easy to make small adapter boards that would mount to the current plates via the outer ring of block holes, then extend out as far as needed to allow room for the D/W mounting holes.

Rusty
Unfortunately yes, the holes are just about right on 6.5 inch front to back spacing according to my tape measure or whatever the closest metric equivalent to that would be, I doubt Holger used English measure when he did the layout. I think the easiest approach would be to just add the extra 1/2 in diameter to the standard centerplate and sell it as an option. I don't know that adding adaptor plates for that small of a difference would be the optimum setup, seems like it would just add a bunch of unnecessary hardware to attach them then attach the landing gear brackets as well.

At some point I will be putting one of my AV130 mounts with Droidworx landing gear under the Rev 8 Y6 I built, probably when the MK electronics arrive to replace the Hoverfly board that's on it now. Adaptor or not I'll figure out a way to do it and still have room for everything on the gear rails.
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Old Aug 16, 2011, 09:49 PM
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Feb 2011
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Rusty-

The 1 1/4 aluminum button hex screws I ordered from Fastener Express.....

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