>>Are you two saying that I have to purchase mounting blocks for the motor mounts?<<

No, when you choose a configuration such as UAP1 quad or hex or Y6 you pick the motor mount you want and that kit comes with motor mounts and blocks.

You can also opt out of motor mounts and pick your own.

>>Either two double block motor mount clamps for each motor, so something else?<<

Yes, you can order the double block mount or the vibration isolating motor mounts. You opt out of motor mount on the kit and purchase the motor mount separately. However for the 2216 motors you don't want to use the double block mounts. Those are just over kill. If you want to have less vibration you may consider the vibration isolating motor mount. You have to make sure the cross plate on your 2216 motors have hole patterns that is 44mm apart. Or else you need to order the cross plates from Rusty with the appropriate hole pattern for your motor. I believe the 2216 has 16mm X 19mm hole pattern.

Thanks again.

One final thing. To add the camera mount for a UAP-1, I need:

1. The UAP1 Camera Damper Plates;

2. The 5" camera tray with manual tilt kit; and

3. At least four (4) soft 4-40 threaded dampers

Then I am good to go?

thanks again

Originally Posted by daskim

Thanks again.

One final thing. To add the camera mount for a UAP-1, I need:

1. The UAP1 Camera Damper Plates;

2. The 5" camera tray with manual tilt kit; and

3. At least four (4) soft 4-40 threaded dampers

Then I am good to go?

thanks again

Glad I made it by before all the questions were answered. In addition to the plates, and dampers, the description of the damper plates also mentions that you will need standoffs. For the EAR dampers, 3/4" long standoffs work fine, and you'll need 3/8" long 4-40 screws also. If you want to use 4 screws to hold the damper to the frame, and 4 to hold the gimbal to the damper, then you'll of course need 8 standoffs and 16 screws.

I really do need to apologize for the shabby state of the site. Reworking all the items and descriptions is very high on my to-do list, and I need to also make some changes to remove some clutter. Heck, I see the pictures are all lined up vertically now, so Core Commerce must have changed something. Better see if I can unchange it.

Rusty

I just maidened my new Y6 and after a stable 15 second hover, one of the DYS-30 ESC with SimonK firmware caught fire. I could land safely and the motor was warm, all other 5 motors and ESCs were cold. No other damage as I can tell.

I never had this before, but I can only assume it was a faulty ESC or the firmware programming went wrong. I found two other users who reported the same problem with these ESCs. Any other reasons why this can happen?

Also do I need to replace the motor (Avroto) because it was drawing a lot of power for a short time?

>>I just maidened my new Y6 and after a stable 15 second hover, one of the DYS-30 ESC with SimonK firmware caught fire. I could land safely and the motor was warm, all other 5 motors and ESCs were cold. No other damage as I can tell.<<

That's not good.


>>I never had this before, but I can only assume it was a faulty ESC or the firmware programming went wrong. I found two other users who reported the same problem with these ESCs. Any other reasons why this can happen?<<

Probably bad ESC. I doubt if it is the firmware.

>>Also do I need to replace the motor (Avroto) because it was drawing a lot of power for a short time?<<

That should not do the motor any harm. You may need ESC's with higher current rating.

Originally Posted by Mike SF

I just maidened my new Y6 and after a stable 15 second hover, one of the DYS-30 ESC with SimonK firmware caught fire. I could land safely and the motor was warm, all other 5 motors and ESCs were cold. No other damage as I can tell.

I never had this before, but I can only assume it was a faulty ESC or the firmware programming went wrong. I found two other users who reported the same problem with these ESCs. Any other reasons why this can happen?

Also do I need to replace the motor (Avroto) because it was drawing a lot of power for a short time?

Had this happen with one DYS 30a flashed on my first power up as well. It looked like it was a poor solder job. I have since not had an issue on my other ESCs with my y6, which has cumulative ~11 hrs of flight over a few hundred flights. They ESCs do get uncomfortably warm, and I am going to be changing those over to F30A flashed

Originally Posted by 13brv3

I really do need to apologize for the shabby state of the site. Reworking all the items and descriptions is very high on my to-do list, and I need to also make some changes to remove some clutter. Heck, I see the pictures are all lined up vertically now, so Core Commerce must have changed something. Better see if I can unchange it.

Rusty

Thanks Rusty. Don't apologize. I understand you have a day job.

May I make one suggestion from my standpoint of not knowing what to buy in order to get a fixed mount manual tilt camera mount.

I didn't know what to buy including what plates, standoffs, screws, dampers, etc.

I could figure out a basic frame order, but had no clue on the rest. A basic "package" for this would help.

In other words, if you want a camera mount using the five inch mount, you'll need this plate, screws, standoffs, etc.

Thanks to everyone though.

>>In other words, if you want a camera mount using the five inch mount, you'll need this plate, screws, standoffs, etc.<<

The problem with Rusty's item is that they are so versatile.

With a little creativity you can make just about anything out of t he basic items. For example I have taken his tube leg plates and made a camera gimbal with them. (see attached photo)

So Rusty has no idea what any one would want to use his items for what purpose. Therefore he cannot put together packages to anticipate what user would want. Otherwise his list of packages will be very long and even more confusing. Just go and browse his website. That's what I do. I find all kinds of goodies. IF you have question come here and ask. Otherwise just order some parts and have fun. If you find out you are lacking some items order again. He always ship super fast anyway so even while I live in the middle of nowhere the parts come really fast.

I understand what you are saying, but for those of us who have never built his frame, or any frame, don't know exactly what is needed.

For example, do I need bolts to attach the floating plate to the bottom of the frame, or are they included. Stuff like that.

Or at least a generic assembly pdf of a camera mount with photos. I can look at that and get an idea on what I need. Or photos of how to attach motor mounts, etc.

I have tried to grab any photo of a completed UAP-1 frame on the internet to see how the assembly of a camera mount went.

And if you google UAP-1 build thread on google, you won't find one.

If you haven't built the frame before, it a little difficult to know what you need to get from here to there.

Thanks though for your help.

Thanks for the response. I will replace the ESC and watch the motor. On my quad the motors were never drawing more than 8 Amps and I assume it will be similar on the Y6. Since the other ESCs were still cold, I believe the 30 Amp ESC should be ok (even if the rating is off by a lot).

I did not flash them on my own, but they were already flashed in the factory according to Rusty.

At least no damage to the copter itself thanks to the Y6 redundancy.

Originally Posted by SeismicCWave

>>I just maidened my new Y6 and after a stable 15 second hover, one of the DYS-30 ESC with SimonK firmware caught fire. I could land safely and the motor was warm, all other 5 motors and ESCs were cold. No other damage as I can tell.<<

That's not good.


>>I never had this before, but I can only assume it was a faulty ESC or the firmware programming went wrong. I found two other users who reported the same problem with these ESCs. Any other reasons why this can happen?<<

Probably bad ESC. I doubt if it is the firmware.

>>Also do I need to replace the motor (Avroto) because it was drawing a lot of power for a short time?<<

That should not do the motor any harm. You may need ESC's with higher current rating.

Originally Posted by daskim

I understand what you are saying, but for those of us who have never built his frame, or any frame, don't know exactly what is needed.

As Seismic already said, every build is different. But the base UAP1 package from Rusty comes with a lot screws and standoffs. I also bought 100 4-40 x 3/8 screws, plus additional standoffs 3/4", 1"" and 1 3/8". They come in handy over time.

All these suggestions help.

Thanks to everyone

Here are two pictures off the round damper plate. I'm using 4 standoffs to connect the dampener plate to the main plate (red) and another 4 to attach the floating plate. There are 4 dampeners (green). On my quad I used 6 dampeners because the battery was strapped the floating plate as well. So more dampeners to accomodate the higher weight.

3/4" standoffs are fine, mine are 1" only because I ran out of the shorter ones.

If you are building a quad, the positions of standoffs and dampeners change because of the different arm position. Just play around with it, until everything fits.

I had a DYS 30a simonk flashed esc go up in smoke as well. I was fortunate to see the motor oscillating just before and was able to get it down for a hard landing. They run really hot, I figured it was just a matter of time.

Slightly confused.

Standoffs are used to attach dampener plate to the main plate.

Then wouldn't the dampener screws attach the floating plate to the dampening plate, and then normal screws attach the camera mount to it?