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Old Jul 08, 2011, 04:16 AM
Dixie Normious
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New Product
New ParkZone StrykerQ

StrykerQ

Picked up the Stryker Q last week. Finally got a Maiden flight. All i have too say is WOW. She tracks like its on rails. With the the Ailerons Maxed out too 35mm the agility of this Bird is quite impressive!

You can have Speed brakes/Spoilers with your Rudders on the Q.
Heres what i came up with.

DX6i Rudder Airbrake Set Up
Stryker Q

Right rudder connected to the RUDD plug on RX
Left rudder to the AUX1 (or flap) plug.


Mix1
RUDD to FLAP at +100 on both the UP and DN settings (with trim active) so that the left rudder moves the same direction as the right rudder (normal flight).

MIX2
RUDD to FLAP but at -100 on both UP and DN settings so that the left rudder moves opposite to the right rudder and I get both rudders inboard for a left rudder and both rudders outboard for a right rudder (air-brakes). I have not flown this yet, just tested it on my bench. I have MIX1 and MIX2 hooked to different switches and only plan to use one at a time.

……………………………………………………………………………………………....
Final Setup.

D/R's
Low-rates
Expo
AIle 0 75% +40%
Elev 0 75% +40%
Rudd 0 75% +20%

D/R's
High-rates
Expo
AIle 1 100% +60%
Elev 1 100% +60%
Rudd 1 100% +25%

Travel Adj

Ailerons are maxed at 125% each way.
Elev is maxed 125% each way.
Rudd is down too 80% each way.
Flap is down too 78%
that was too make the 5mm or so adjustment i needed too even out them. may vary!!

Flaps menu
Norm 0%
land 80%

.................................................. .................................................. ....
Mix 1
RUD > FLP
Rate: +100
+100
Offset: 0
Trim: Act
SW: ON

Mix 2
FLP > RUD
Rate: -100
-100
Offset: 0
Trim: Inh
SW: ON

Use the flap system menu to control your air brake. Positive flaps will move the rudders out towards the wingtips. Negative flaps will move them in towards the motor. You can also change the activation speed, switch, and elevator mixing easily from the flap system menu.

Aux1 will control the left rudder. Make sure the subtrim and reversing(Mine was normal) are correct. Then set your endpoints on the Rudder and Aux1 channels to be the same.

*WARNING*
There have been quite a few Q's coming out of the Box with the Aileron horns
not Properly Glued and have failed/pulled out during flight causing total destruction.
*Fix* The simplest way too fix this issue is too re-glue the horns in. Do not just glue the edge of the horn. The base of them are glued too the paint!! and mine had little to no glue on the actual spine of the horn. I'm not ever sure what it was. Diluted CA? Mine came out with little force. Take care to pry them out, bending the horn side too side helped loosing the little bit of glue!! Watch that you don't tear the underside of the foam. ZFoam is pretty strong though!
Take the horn out and Properly re-glue them in.
I used White Gorilla glue and CA, I used CA instead of H2o to set the GG.
It sets the GG in about 5mins, still causing the foaming action of White Gorilla
Glue.
With the combination of these 2 glues, the horns are installed too never come out!!

Option 2 is too get a pack of Du Bro horns with back plates. Screw them on too the Aileron. Some people have fasioned there own!
The Q's Rudders are installed this way!! I am kinda dumbfounded that they would do the Rudders like this and not the Ailerons. Seeing the Rudders well not be strained not nearly as much as the Ailerons.

Another issue is there have been a few instances of the Clevis's pulling off the treads on the push-rods. A simple/quick fix is it apply a dab of CA on either side of the clevis. You well still be able too make mechanical adjustments.

I also replaced the flimsy clevis rubber stops with my normal mod i do with all my PZ/HH Aircraft. Normal Fuel tubing works great.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1416165

But it is a good idea too have your Q set up and trimmed before hand.
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Old Jul 09, 2011, 07:31 PM
R.C. Aviation Fanatic
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20,782 Posts
Thanks dude

I'll try your air brakes mix

Is Scott gunna get one of these?
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Old Jul 10, 2011, 01:50 AM
Dixie Normious
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Joined May 2010
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No Prob Ryan! Ahh im not sure if he well. I haven't seen him now is some time. I think last time was the Maiden of the TitanJet. I'm waiting on a BL form RCtimer for her. I mention too Scott about maybe getting the Buddy Box happening, and get him some flights on it.
I still have his EPPYakk 55 here for a Airbrushing, its just i don't have time seeing it summer. Crazy... But i have to get it done for him.

Once i get the new HigherKV BL for it ,im hoping it well go faster. But now after flying the Q, Its going to be hard too get it up too that speed. lol

If you have any Probs with any of the Set up for Rudder Speed brakes let me know.

I found that it makes it flair quite abit. But i was coming in kinda hot. Once shes flaired and stalled hold it with the full down Elev and she well Flop too the ground!!
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Old Jul 10, 2011, 05:07 PM
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Cool thanks man


Yes I'm sure Scott wouid like to try the Q

Get ER done lol
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Old Jul 12, 2011, 05:24 PM
R.C. Aviation Fanatic
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dude

Tried this tonight - well part of it

and on mine, gear had to always be on for dual rudders to work, and to activate air brakes, gear would have to come off leaving only one rudder working, and then flip flap switch to activate air brakes.

also with yours, if you move rudder one direction, do you rudders go out towards wing tips, then other rudder imput direction they go inwards towards motor?


is there a way to just hook uo rudders to flair in or out with just one switch?

basically just to come in for a landing to slow down?


also

i had to use 6" servo extensions one rudder servos were taken out of Y cable to reach RX

lol

I guess they didnt leave me much wire under hood lol


oh
and did you do the following below in order to even out ELEV and AILE to 125% in travel adjustments? Mine when maxing out ELEV for example to 125% in both directions, only moves one flap and not both, thereby screwing assing in differential.

is this why you did the following?

"Travel Adj
Ailerons are maxed at 125% each way.
Elev is maxed 125% each way.
Rudd is down too 80% each way.
Flap is down too 78%
that was too make the 5mm or so adjustment i needed too even out them. may vary!!"
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Old Jul 12, 2011, 06:38 PM
Dixie Normious
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Thats odd! My gear switch never has to be on. All i flip is the flaps. Do you have the Right rudder connected to the RUDD plug on RX
Left rudder to the AUX1 (or flap) plug?

The reason i had too bring down the flap to 78% was because even with 2 of throws (Left and right rudd) were at 100% on the TX my left one was at 40mm and my right was at 35mm roughly. It seemed to me that 40mm was to much, so i knocked it down to 78% throw which was about 5mm.

"Quote" Is there a way to just hook uo rudders to flair in or out with just one switch?
basically just to come in for a landing to slow down?

Unless im missing something the settings i posted are identical on my TX. I just re-checked.
Run through yours again and see.
Let me know!!

When i flip the flap switch! My Rudders swing outward!!

Use the flap system menu to control your air brake. Positive flaps will move the rudders out towards the wingtips. Negative flaps will move them in towards the motor. You can also change the activation speed, switch, and elevator mixing easily from the flap system menu.

As for Maxing out the Ail/Elev to 125% was too get 35mm of throw on H/R's
And thats combined with Push rod in the outer hole(servo arm), inner hole (Aileron Horn)

Let me know how you make out!
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Old Jul 12, 2011, 06:50 PM
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Okay that's weird

I'll try again

Thanks
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Old Aug 12, 2011, 12:05 PM
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How were you able to max out the travel on the elevons without using the mixes? When I select "delta" on the wing type I get 50% travel on the elevons. This is common I've read with the DX6i and delta configuration. The way to solve it is to use the two mixes to add travel.

Of course the problem is that you use up the two mixes, and therefore have none left for air brakes. How did you overcome that?
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