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First steps - mounting the wing to the fuse.
I designed the wing to have a holddown at 34mm and 123mm from the LE. The forward bolt location can be plus or minus about 5mm, but the aft location goes right through the hingeline of the wing and between the drag spars, so it's placement is pretty critical. One thing different about this "moldie" is that the wing is made using a four piece mold instead of a two piece, and because of this the halves are joined with a wrap of cloth after removal from the mold. My workspace is really limited so I have to build this way. This wing is also molded with reflex, so the fixed portion of the flapperon at the root has to be cut loose and re-fixed using the fuselage as a reference for cruise camber. For starters, I drill a hole at 34mm back from the LE in the center of the fuse. The bolts will thread into an aluminum blind nut that slides through a very small piece of 1/16 ply epoxied to the inside of the fuse. Once I have that hole, I put some epoxy / cabosil mixture on the ply and put it on the bottom of the fuse through the canopy opening. Gently tip the fuse back so the assembly slides until you see the hole in the aluminum through the hole in the fuse you drilled. Now use a wing bolt to "catch" the assembly and pull it up into place. Only do the front bolt for now.
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Thanks guys.
Next steps: Once you have the forward bolt carrier epoxied into the fuselage, it's time to trim it down. I use a dremel cutoff wheel and cut it about 1-2mm above the wing seat. Use a piece of masking tape on either side to protect the fuse. Once it's cut off, you can then use a flat file to take it down to about a mm proud of the fuse. At this point you can mount the wing using only the forward bolt and align the TE of the wing with the center of the boom. Use string from the tips to the aft end of the boom to square everything up if you wish. Once you have things aligned, tape the TE of the wing in place and drill a pilot hole for the aft bolt using the wing as a guide. Now you can enlarge the hole with the correct size bit and repeat the process to epoxy in and trim the rear bolt block. Remember now as you mount the wing for the first time that the wing is molded with reflex. The aft section of the wing between the flapperons is split at the root and "hinged" so that when you put the aft bolt in place, it will gently pull the TE down into cruise position. A little epoxy in the "hinge" line and between the root halves at the TE will solidify everything.
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Mounting tails...
On this airplane, I'll be using a hinged horizontal and rudderless vertical. For starters, I put a piece of tape on the boom marking the front of the vertical after it's mounted. Next I drill and countersink the top of the horizontal as well as the stab mount. I like to mount the tails with the wing already on the fuse to ensure alignment. Once the horizontal is mounted to the stab mount, I sight down from above and give myself about a 3-4mm gap between the LE of the vertical and the TE of the horizontal. Now I put a couple more pieces of tape on the fuse marking the forward and aft edges of the stab mount. Using a piece of 220 grit, I rough up the top of the boom where the stab mount will sit and I epoxy it in place using a small amount of epoxy. Now is the time to cut the slot in the top of the boom for the control horn movement. Don't be shy. The boom has a few extra layers in this area so you won't make it weak. Cutting the slot later is do-able but it's much easier to make a clean slot using a cutoff wheel in a dremel at this point. Mine measures about 15mm long and 3mm wide. In the pictures you'll see that the holes in the horizontal aren't perfectly in line with the spread tow lines, so now I use a jig to drill and countersink those... and I pay more attention to the spread tow patch to make sure it's square when I mold the parts. Once the horizontal is in place and lined up with the wing, let the epoxy cure. Next is the vertical. The way I do this is to draw the outline of the airfoil on a piece of masking tape and place it on the boom. I use that as a template to dremel out the top of the boom using a cutoff wheel, then clean up the edges with a small router bit. It's very important that the slot pretty closely approximates the fin profile. More gap = more epoxy = more nose weight. Once you're happy with the top slot, cut the bottom in the same fashion and test fit the vertical. Be careful as you slide in the vertical because if the slot is too narrow and you use force, you'll damage the vertical visibly. When you're happy with the alignment sighted from the nose and tail, make a small mark on the center of the LE of the vertical, and slide it in place making sure the vertical is centered. Epoxy or CA it in place. The tails are white but they're NOT rohacell, so foam safe CA is necessary.
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