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Old Feb 21, 2013, 07:31 PM
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poltergeist's Avatar
Pomona, CA
Joined Apr 2007
663 Posts
In my experience, the downhauls, outhauls and sheets often do require quite fine adjustments. I have had good luck using the Sailsetc bowsies on small diameter spectra "travelling lines" run along the boom. They seem to hold OK yet are fairly easy to move in small increments. Of course, cold or wet hands make it much more difficult!!!

Kevin
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 06:53 PM
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Ed Crowell's Avatar
Southern Calif
Joined Dec 2005
1,798 Posts
FC,

I also use a HI-tec digital servo (HS-7954SH) it is very light and programable. And I also have rare earth magnets on my hatch cover and have never had a drop of water in the hull.

Rick,

Thanks for posting about your source for aluminum brackets.

Ed
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 07:24 PM
RB
Joined Nov 2012
114 Posts
Posting

I want to agree with Ed's comment regarding the destination of posts. This is the "General" location and for most of what has appeared on the 529 etc locations. However, if it is more appropriate to open a General Build site, perhaps the admin guy might consider that . I enjoy all the comments anyway.
Richard
ps Got my Sirius sails yesterday. I am in FL with my Soling and Soul Mate (maybe that should be the other way around), but am eager to get 563 finished and in the water.
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Old Mar 11, 2013, 07:27 PM
If it floats....sail it!
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Elk Grove, CA
Joined Sep 2002
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Batten down the hatches...or just add magnets

Not wanting to lose my hatches if/when the boat takes water over the deck, I added some rare earth magnets that I bought years ago to hold down RC airplane canopies. A little epoxy and CA and now these buggers "snap" when they close. It will take conditions more than what I would ever sail in to rip them off.

FC
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Old Mar 31, 2013, 08:11 AM
RB
Joined Nov 2012
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563 More Questions....

I'm about done and have a couple of queries please...
1. Regarding the launcher by Ed shown in the 529 thread - Ed are you happy with it or would you suggest any modifications ?
2. Ed how do you adjust mainsail luff tension ? I notice the tack is fixed - at the head ?
Richard
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Old Mar 31, 2013, 12:08 PM
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Ed Crowell's Avatar
Southern Calif
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Hi Richard,

I have a bowsie at the top of the main sail luff to adjust the tension.

If you are talking about the launcher made of PVC pipe, it works great. We have cement and rocks at the edge of our lake so it also helps to keep the boat from getting scratched and banged up. It works good to stop the boat as it is coming in. I have a PDF file of the PVC launcher that I can post.

I also made a launcher that locks into the hatch opening. But when you have it in the water you need to remove it and install the hatch cover. Not very handy when the wind is blowing.

Ed
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Old Mar 31, 2013, 12:21 PM
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Southern Calif
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Here is the PDF file of the launcher. You may need to do some minor adjusting on some of the pipe lengths. But you can dry assemble it and adjust it accordingly. One side is shorter than the other due to the contour of the hull, you can swap the lower sections depending on which direction to want to launch the boat. Mine is set to hold the hull on the on the port side and launches off to the left.

Ed
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Old Apr 01, 2013, 12:22 PM
If it floats....sail it!
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Elk Grove, CA
Joined Sep 2002
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Richard:

Several of the skippers here in Sacramento use a design very similar to Ed's for both their CJ's and Santa Barbara's and they have found that the length of the arms used for lifting needs to be set to how much drop there is from their feet to the water. A couple have commented that at one venue where we launch from a rather high dock that their lifters that work fine from small curb are a strain from the dock. Also placement of the center brace is critical if it is a long drop so you can switch hands. Some very long ones have been made from copper water pipe.

It might take a couple of test versions before you get one that fits your needs.

I have thought if you could make one that used spring loaded buttons that pop into various holes, like some tent poles, or something like an adjustable boat hook where you can tighten a collar you could have a nice adjustable version that would work about anywhere. I am still trying to figure how to fix the curved section to the aluminum tubing.

Steve
CJ #527
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Old Apr 01, 2013, 07:17 PM
RB
Joined Nov 2012
114 Posts
Launcher

Thanks guys !
I am working on a launcher that will serve as a launcher and as a working cradle for set up before launch. I would like to avoid transfer from the normal cradle to the launcher and visa versa. I'll post a pic or two when I get there; but the proof will be the, in the field use. It is still too damn cold here to sail yet. Patience seems to wain as age advances....
Richard
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Old Apr 01, 2013, 09:32 PM
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Southern Calif
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Richard,

I can set my boat in the cradle on the ground and use my launcher to pick up the boat right out of the cradle.

Ed
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Old Apr 02, 2013, 02:20 AM
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aurora, il.
Joined Aug 2009
207 Posts
Hi Ed, I like your launch racks, I have been building them for over 4 years now, I have build over 30 so far, the 1st ones I did where made out of 1/2" steel conduit and bolted together, the 2nd ones where welded together, then started making them out of 3/4" electrical PVC conduit & fittings http://www.lowes.com/pd_50958-223-UA...t_avg_rating|1 you can use 2 of the 90 degree fittings to make each hook and 2more to make the top, no need to use 45 degree fittings, we use them for Santa Barbara's and EC-12's, I also make some out of 1/2" PVC for the Soling 1M, the last one I did for the Soling 1M was a stand and launch rack, the handle was removable for transport in the car
John R.
1st picture is the 1st rack I built with my Santa Barbara in the background
2nd picture is the next ones I built ( welded )
3ed picture is the 2010 Santa Barbara Nationals in Vernen Hills, Ill.
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Old Apr 02, 2013, 06:45 PM
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Australia, TAS, Penguin
Joined Mar 2012
465 Posts
The pic below shows the launch/recovery method I have adopted for my A Class - a lifting eye in the deck. The lifting eye is at the balance point of the boat when rigged. The deck is about knee level when standing. Note aluminium stirrup down to the keel - that's where all the weight is of course...

All my usual launch sites are either low to the water or are "wade-in" - this makes the 15 kilogram fully-rigged boat easy to manage even in windy conditions. I could arrange a longer hook for higher jetty I guess, but don't have the need...
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Last edited by mrpenguin; Apr 02, 2013 at 06:48 PM. Reason: Corrected typos
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Old Apr 03, 2013, 07:21 PM
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southern oregon
Joined Feb 2010
52 Posts
Mainsail luff fasteners....

Ed, have read through all of the build threads etc. and there has been no mention of the luff attachment to the aluminum mast that I can find. The pictures don't get close enough to see if it is string, tywraps, wire, or something else.

My Epic with a wood mast has a jackwire soldered to brass screws and the sail has dress hooks or bra hooks? sewn on and it is very easy to remove the sail and roll it up with a paper spacer and the boom intact. It makes it easy to transport. The mast of course is a rectangle, and the brass screws are not a problem. But, what do you do on this yacht ??? Thanks for your time, Randy
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Old Apr 04, 2013, 12:11 AM
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Pomona, CA
Joined Apr 2007
663 Posts
Randy,

The C-J class rules allow any form of attachment of the mainsail to the mast, with the exception of a grooved sail track. Most C-J's that I'm aware of use simple luff ties as it's light, fairly foolproof and allows the luff to pivot behind the mast when the sails are eased out. A jackwire setup would work as well but adds weight and complexity. Here's a pic of how I did mine.

Kevin
Canterbury J #551
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Old Apr 04, 2013, 01:43 PM
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Southern Calif
Joined Dec 2005
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Randy,

I used 80 lb Spectra (fishing line) to attach the luff to the mast.

Kevin's build of C-J # 551 suggested using a dowel to fit the curve of the mast and cut a slot in it to hold the Luff of the sail. This will help to tie the main sail to the mast.

Ed
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