Moving along...the main project last night was to tackle the keel. After reading about the complaints of the wimpy stock keel and seeing for myself just how bad the keel would be, I decided it had to be stiffened.

The keel is so thin, that anything added inside other than a strip of glass would require some surgery. After looking at several other things, I decided to use a pair of cut down 2-56 stainless pushrods. I had to notch out a place for them using my wood working tools. The ABS was even easier to work than wood.

I drilled the lead keel bulb to allow the rods to go about 1" inside. This should help with the overall stiffening and strength of the keel.

The pushrods worked out rather nicely, giving a nice stiff keel after being Zpoxy'd in place.

While waiting on glue to dry...I installed the rudder, rudder pushrod and assembled the boat stand.

...so here goes.

After reports of the main sheet getting tangled and breaking things like winch handles off...I decided to follow Boomers lead and add a riser tube for the main sheet to come out of. I took a piece of alum tube and slipped a tight fitting flat washer over it and CA glued it. I've used this before (for something entirely different) and it is very strong.

I finished the riser tube by gluing the extra ABS eyelet to the top to give a good looking and snag free opening for the sheet to run through. The hole in the deck had a good amount of flashing in it, so I filed it out before gluing the tube to the deck. I then realized I didn’t need to do that because I was drilling anyway, but I mention it here in case you don’t add the tube or drill.

I CA glued the tube by adding glue to the top of the washer and slid it up under the deck and pulled it through the hole. I had a very snug fit and this required some patience. I then added a tiny amount of thin CA around the top of the deck/tube where they met and ended up with a strong joint.

...next came the sails...These came out ok, but after I was done I realized the decals were not placed perfectly. I should of used a square to ensure I got them where I wanted them...but I thought I my eyes were good enough...next time I will use a square...however...they still came out pretty good...

I decided to add eyelets to the sails and it just so happened that my wife had some she picked up at a crafts store long ago. She had various colors, but only a couple had smooth edges on the back side. I didn't want a serrated back side so I chose one that I could punch and get the smooth edge I wanted.

The only punch that she had was for the serrated type of eyelet. I dug out my trusty center punch and used it to get the process started using several smaller taps to keep from splitting the metal. I then finished it off with the hammer directly to the eyelet. I only put a split in 1 out of 6…not bad.

The next project was the mast. Again, following advice given by those who preceded me, I knew I needed to beef up the mast. I punched in the stock mast connector (which by the way, goes in much easier with a little oil added) light tapping with a wood block so to NOT booger up the end. I found a tight fitting 12” brass tube and punched that half way in, with again some oil and a wood block.

The 2 mast ends were then hit together using the wood block and light tapping. All spreaders and fittings were added and we have a mast.

I proceeded to slide the sail into place per instructions and built up the booms.

Having added all the lines to the sails per the manual, I proceeded to place the rigging up. I decided to replace the side stays (shrouds) with nylon coated 30lb test stainless fishing leader and found the perfect item at Bass Pro for under $4.00. The leader even comes with 8 sleeves so there is no need to spend another $5.00+ on those. I also ordered a Deluxe 2-56 Pull-Pull Clevis System (Tower) to make the connection to the deck plates.

Finally, I picked up some nice snap swivels while I was at Bass Pro. On those I removed the snaps and replaced them with small slip rings.

I held the mast in place with a temp set of lines made up from kite string.

I built up a simple cross stick (scissor) tool to center my mast. I got everything close to alignment then built up and added the new side stays.

Ok…after getting her all rigged, I decided it was time to hook up the sail servo and get her ready to rumble. I ran into a couple of snags here. 1st I didn’t route the main sheet correctly and ended up with it snagging on the rudder servo arm…my bad and I had to re-route the sheet around the servo tray post.

Next when I went to test the sail servo with sheets attached, it stripped the spline on the servo/ABS servo arm, and I’m not sure which. But as it turns out, the ABS arm that comes with the boat was designed for a Futaba servo (discontinued & very hard to find), not the Hitec and I don’t think they match up right.

So…a little rebuild was in order. I just took a Hitec servo attachment, sanded it flush, sanded the sail arm flush and glued/screwed the parts into one. I pressed it into place, it fit tight and we are good to go.

I only have a little over a week into this build at this point and we have a boat ready to sail.

Next up is the hatch modifications and the crew...

Crash
Great build and the boat is looks magnificent. I think we have discussed this but if not it is worth sharing with you. I see you have used the line that comes with the boat for your rigging. Most of the guys I know that have done that, found that the line will sooner or later be cut by the holes in the spreaders. Even when you de-bur the holes.

I replaced all the "string" like lines with 1 x 7 SS nylon coated leader - it takes some effort to get the lines all taught and the spreaders level, but is worth the time and effort. The mast becomes a very strong assembly that will hold up in any kind of weather.

I guess you could find some small tubing to make sleeves or guides for the spreaders, but those typically don't stay in place.

Sorry you had the issue with the spline on the servo arm. I will continue to search for the Futaba S3801 sail servos and when I find another one, I'll call you.

The best servo I have ever used!!

Boomer

Ok...thanks for that warning Boomer...I will look into that later. I do have a question for you though.

The main boom...it seems to want to stay rotated toward the side that the boom vang inserts into...it appears to be weighted to that side...does yours do the same thing or does your boom stay upright/centered. I think a pin through the ball joint would fix this...

One other thing....I notice that none of the boats I've seen except mine has this cheezy plastic mast joiner piece. All the boats I've seen have a alum piece...all I got was this. I decided to leave it off since I added the stiffener inside. Maybe it's a improved later version...but it looks bad...

Originally Posted by Capt.Crash

Ok...thanks for that warning Boomer...I will look into that later. I do have a question for you though.

The main boom...it seems to want to stay rotated toward the side that the boom vang inserts into...it appears to be weighted to that side...does yours do the same thing or does your boom stay upright/centered. I think a pin through the ball joint would fix this...

Crash
Been on the road today - back home - here's the deal on the boom twist.
Sometimes it stays straight and other times not.

It is really the design that permits it do this, so what I am doing is copying an idea from a forum buddy that has done super job on his Yamaha. Viggio put together this very cool adjustable boom vang. Problem solved.

I am going to make one using the turnbuckle shown in the picture below.
The twist doesn't seem to have any affect on the boat's sailing characteristics.
Just doesn't look right.

I posted a few pictures of Viggio's boat - Very cool.

Hope that helps
Boomer

are you going to fit the sailing crew?

Originally Posted by ToniGe23

are you going to fit the sailing crew?

Yes...I will be putting those together this week.

Wow...that boat has some cool mods...what does the spring do...


oh wait...is that an antenna wire I see coming out of the hatch and through that spring...it could be a wire protector?

Crash
I think this picture will explain the wire. I believe the spring is to protect the wire. Not 100% sure.

I agree, he has done some inovation for sure. I posted the last pictures I have of his boat.

Enjoy
Boomer