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Old Jun 10, 2012, 07:06 PM
I am GBLynden
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United States, WA, Lynden
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So I had my maiden a short time ago and it flew perfectly! That leads us to the next flight.....It flew great for 15 seconds and then decided to fly right into the ground from 20 feet up in the air

I am pretty darn sure that 15 seconds into the second flight that the rudder decided it needed to freak out because it didn't respond when I when to pull out of it. The nose is all smashed up but everything works just fine except for the rudder. It either doesn't respond or jumps from one side to another.......

It looked so beautiful and was so responsive before this happened. I just don't get it considering there was little to no wind.
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Old Jun 10, 2012, 07:53 PM
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Gulf Breeze, FL
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That leads us to the next flight.....It flew great for 15 seconds and then decided to fly right into the ground from 20 feet up in the air
Did you perchance at one time or another drop the airplane on its nose? When the nose hits, the motor strikes the bottom of the brick , cutting the rudder trace, resulting in your symptoms. Horizon Hobby denies a problem...yet then said it was fixed by moving the brick, the mod indicated by a number being written inside the fuselage next to the brick.

I checked one of the "modded" airplanes, but a little flexing of the nose still resulted in motor/brick contact. Several friends who had the problem just disconnected the rudder, and the Pole Cat flies fine.

Gene K
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Old Jun 10, 2012, 07:58 PM
I am GBLynden
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I actually only flew it twice. The second time resulted in the crash and made the elevator more noisy and the rudder dead. Do you recommend opening it up from the inside or just unhooking the rudder control horn? I just did the latter to keep the rudder from being bent permanantly.

PS: Thank you for being so helpful. I really appreciate it!
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Old Jun 10, 2012, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by GBLynden View Post
The nose is all smashed up but everything works just fine except for the rudder. It either doesn't respond or jumps from one side to another.......
.
Yup this has happened to me. Seems to be a normal occurrence when you crash a polecat. I lost my first polecat like that. In order to fix it you need a new receiver. They are a about 60 bucks off amazon - ouch. My second one has fared a bit better. However, the motor seems to not want to start without some push like a glow after a few crashes . Also last time i flew the motor cut out mid flight after doing a spin .
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Old Jun 10, 2012, 10:14 PM
I am GBLynden
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Yeah, if I had it to do again I would have waited for the Mig. I am going to call HH tomorrow and see if they are in a mood to stand behind their product. I know the prospects aren't perfect, but I am going to try anyway.
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Old Jun 10, 2012, 10:29 PM
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I am going to call HH tomorrow and see if they are in a mood to stand behind their product.
Good luck! The technician I talked to said there wasn't a problem...and when I told him that RCGroups showed many occurrences, he bluntly told me they (HH technicians) don't have time to "read the boards".

Gene K
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Old Jun 10, 2012, 10:33 PM
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Do you recommend opening it up from the inside or just unhooking the rudder control horn?
I opened it up and cut the leads to the rudder servo.

Gene K
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Old Jun 10, 2012, 10:36 PM
I am GBLynden
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I opened it up and cut the leads to the rudder servo.

Gene K
Cool, I will do this if things don't go well tomorrow with HH.
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 09:59 AM
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The rudder fail is what eventually ate my PC. But that was after many many flights and a few mishaps.

I understood that they had re-positioned the brick to avoid the problem in later models.

Speaking of the brick, the rudder servo is built into it. How do you 'cut the leads' ?

Also I found the PC to be pretty responsive to rudder input, especially for hammerheads and stall turns. It just would not be complete to me without a rudder.
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 11:18 AM
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Await the results!
OK, here are the results. Yesterday morning (7:30 AM) perfect for comparison flying of the UM P-51 with Pole Cat motor, and the Pole Cat itself. Dead calm, cool air. Nice! Results? No real difference in performance, but a perceived slightly higher speed with the Pole Cat. I didn't tach the motor & prop, should have, but went by the "sound" at WOT. Both planes make use of a 130x70 mm prop, the only difference being the spinner, hence the different part numbers. The mini Mustang flew fine, on a 240 mAh 1S Hyperion, but I could not discern any performance difference over a *good* stock PKX3616, motor. And therein lies the rub, a *good* stock motor. I have gone through several, in both the Mustang and the UM T-28.

Me thinks the slight perfomance difference with the Pole Cat lies in the wing design. The solid, semi-semetrical foam wing of the Pole Cat very likely has less drag than that of the undercambered Mustang wing. The gear ratios are the same, assuming the pinion gear tooth count is the same, and I have no reason to believe it is not. I made a direct comparison count of the gearbox spur gear, both are 36 teeth.

So, if for no other reason than obtaining another source for a Mustang/Pole Cat motor, both motors are the same, the length of the wire lead being the most obvious difference. I'll continue to fly my Mini Mustang with the Pole Cat motor, to get a better idea on "longevity". I really enjoy both of these micro's, but IMHO, the Mustang does look better in the ski, minus landing gear, doing nice tight aileron rolls. And yes, the Pole Cat will roll even better and faster, on full rates!

Stay tuned.

RD
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 11:47 AM
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Also keep in mind that the Pole Cat has a much smoother finish than the other UM planes. That'll create a speed difference (doesn't hurt that it's a replica of a Formula One-type racer, either).
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 01:45 PM
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I understood that they had re-positioned the brick to avoid the problem in later models.
As I just said - supposedly.

Quote:
Speaking of the brick, the rudder servo is built into it. How do you 'cut the leads' ?
I should have said " cut the blue and red wires coming from under the brick that go to the small servo motor next to the failed rudder's servo mechanism". I have no electronics rationale for doing that, just a "feeling" that cutting the servo power off would /could preclude the servo going full travel, stalling, and burning up the board (I centered the dead servo by turning the spur gear). The smart electronics folks on this board can probably explain if cutting the leads is good or bad for the brick.

Quote:
. It just would not be complete to me without a rudder.
Well, when it happens to you, don't throw the "incomplete" airplane away then - give it to me.

Gene K
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by speedy01 View Post
As I just said - supposedly.



I should have said " cut the blue and red wires coming from under the brick that go to the small servo motor next to the failed rudder's servo mechanism". I have no electronics rationale for doing that, just a "feeling" that cutting the servo power off would /could preclude the servo going full travel, stalling, and burning up the board (I centered the dead servo by turning the spur gear). The smart electronics folks on this board can probably explain if cutting the leads is good or bad for the brick.



Well, when it happens to you, don't throw the "incomplete" airplane away then - give it to me.

Gene K
Cutting power to the motor will do it. The plane could be a pre-rework model that had some extended shelf time. You can tell if it was reworked by the appearance of a number in marker inside the nose
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 03:17 PM
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You can try the MSRx motor, it is 3 mm longer and have more power than the Bravo motor, but i have to get 3 before i get 1 that work well. Same diameter 8,4 mm. You have to change the pinion to 9 teeth.

John
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 05:35 PM
I am GBLynden
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I am waiting for them to call me back right now. I so hope I get someone who believes in strong customer service.

I sent them pictures and await word back from them.
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