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Old Jul 06, 2011, 11:58 AM
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hercdriver7777's Avatar
Columbia SC
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Originally Posted by aerofundan View Post
Any updates????......! biznitch, the RS-352 is only available in the smaller size....
Yeah man! I finished it up over the weekend and will update the thread tonight when I get home from work.
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Old Jul 06, 2011, 06:54 PM
Team Extreme! Team Twisted!
hercdriver7777's Avatar
Columbia SC
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Hey guys,

I updated the pic stream with the final build photos. Over the weekend I got to fly it a little and other than telling you that I liked it, a lot, I will hold off on a flight review until Brad and I have had to to work on the perfect setup.

We realized that the first setup that we were going to run is on the heavy and over powered side of the spectrum and, while it may be OK for most sport pilots, it wouldn't cut it for most of us picky 3D pilots. So we tried another setup that turned out to be very good but it needs to turn a bigger prop because of the cowl on this plane being as large as it is.

So, we have a few more motors that we are going to work on over the next week or two and I will keep you all informed of our progress as we go!

Enjoy the new build photos!
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Old Jul 29, 2011, 02:23 PM
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Maverickk's Avatar
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Chris, any flight reports or other updates on this?
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Old Jul 29, 2011, 08:41 PM
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Yeah, I have flown it on a very heavy motor setup and it flew great but the setup was not optimal. This plane has some twist in it if you get it on the heavy side. I just got two motors in to try this weekend and I hope to have a good flight report by Sunday!
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Old Jul 30, 2011, 12:20 PM
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Fort Collins Colorado USA
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Originally Posted by hercdriver7777 View Post
Yeah, I have flown it on a very heavy motor setup and it flew great but the setup was not optimal. This plane has some twist in it if you get it on the heavy side. I just got two motors in to try this weekend and I hope to have a good flight report by Sunday!
I'll be trying an omega 70gram motor form 3D Hobbyshop. What is the pack size you prefer to give about 7 minute flight times? I have 2200 30c packs but they may be a bit heavy for floaty flying.
Joe
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Old Jul 30, 2011, 12:30 PM
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I think 1800's will be best, but the 2200's should cut the wind nice. Im running 2200's on my Telink Yak and I had wished I gone the floatier route
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Old Jul 30, 2011, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan5.0 View Post
I think 1800's will be best, but the 2200's should cut the wind nice. Im running 2200's on my Telink Yak and I had wished I gone the floatier route
Thanks I have about 6 old 2200s. When I buy new ones I may go with 1800's.
Joe
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Old Jul 30, 2011, 06:57 PM
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I'm running 2200s in mine right now and they are fine. 1800 would be better for sure but 22s are ok.
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 08:18 AM
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United States, GA, Powder Springs
Joined Dec 1999
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Turn the ball links so they are perpendicular to each other and hit them with thin CA. They have grooves on the inside that will let glue seep into them and glue in the rod.
Why do ball links need CA on the threads? Isn't it practically impossible for the connecting rods to twist out when attached to ball links?
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Buzz_Man View Post
Why do ball links need CA on the threads? Isn't it practically impossible for the connecting rods to twist out when attached to ball links?
The rods in this case are not threaded but carbon fiber rods. There is nothing holding them on but the bond between them and the rod. The ballinks have a channel on the inside where the rod goes so that glue will seep in from the end and glue it all together. Not sure you would use the same type of ballinks on a threaded rod.
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 07:07 PM
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Update:

FLIGHT UPDATE:

Well, we have been flying this plane for a few weeks now and we are sorry that the updates haven't come faster. Usually when we are doing these build logs we have everything sorted out power system wise before we even start and we thought we had done so here too. However the motor and ESC that was recommended to us to start with was significantly too heavy for this plane. So heavy in fact that, even though the plane still flew well, it would not have been crash resistant enough to meet Twisted Hobby's standard of excellence and the extra weight really did impede flight characteristics. Even though Twisted had invested a lot of money in orders of speed controls and motors we decided to scrap them and start over. Major props to Twisted for doing the right thing before selling a sub par setup to the modeling public!

For those that want to know what is too heavy, as mentioned above, it was a setup similar to what a lot of people are flying on 48" electric planes with 3S 2650 batteries, a larger than normal 45 amp ESC and a big hunk of a motor swinging a 12X6 E prop. Based on what we have learned this plane is better suited for 1500 to 1800 3S (you could run 2200s ok but its on the top of the recommended limit), a 30 amp ESC and a motor more similar to the Telink planes. Main problem being that the motor we run in the Telink planes is struggling to turn an 11" SF prop and the large cowl of the 1.2M SU really means we need an 11" or 12" prop. Also because the motor has to be front mounted it limits the choices available. We have tried a few different motors and think we have found the right combination but we need to make sure the supplier will be able to get them to us before Brad will put them on his site.

Bottom line is you need a front mounted motor that will turn a 11-12" SF prop on 3S and give you 250-300 watts. Motrolfly has a 2610 -1100 that is right in the ballpark. As do many others.

Flight wise this thing is great! High points are it's elevator authority and precision flying. The thinner fuse to wing area ratio makes this a great plane for carving lines and slow rolling circles. The elevator authority makes it a great harrier plane and good for basic 3D maneuvers like waterfalls and walls. In comparison to the Telink lineup it is a lighter flying plane, has more elevator authority, has a slightly more bendy and twisty fuselage and is more suited to a slower flight regime.

It fits a slightly different niche than the Telinks. I think the Telinks are a good pre balsa plane and a good practice plane for those of us who fly balsa a lot. Whereas this 1.2m SU is a great all around foamy that flies more like a foamy and will feel very familiar to those who have flown things like the Xtra Slick and other small EPP planes. Don't get me wrong, the 1.2 will 3D all day long and I hope to show that in a video soon but it does have that foamy feel to it that gives you more time to think and react.

Video to come next.
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 10:22 PM
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Thanks for the update. Can't wait to see the video
Joe
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 02:07 PM
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Nice write up Chris, can't wait to see the vid!
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Old Aug 05, 2011, 01:42 PM
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Hi Chris:

This thread is very timely for me since I'm in the process of putting my 1.2 meter Sukhoi together. I will post some pics soon showing some of the slightly different mods I have done. I'm a huge fan of the 1 meter RC Factory planes, and can't wait to get this one in the air.

A few questions:

1. Can you be more specific about your lighter weight set up? What is your AUW? I'm planning on using a Torque 2830T/1095 which will be at the lightest weight (70g) of the range recommended, and based on my previous use of the motor should put out around 330-350 watts with an APC 11X5.5.

2. I noticed that you glued on the cowl. Once it's glued in place, how are you swapping out the motor? On the smaller RC Factory round cowl planes, I have had success just slipping on the cowl and letting it hold itself in place from the tight fit. I was going to try this with the big one, but I'm wondering it you think it will work okay.

Thanks,

Neil
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Old Aug 05, 2011, 05:20 PM
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hercdriver7777's Avatar
Columbia SC
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Neil,

That motor is in the ball park for weight but I kind of don't like using the APC E props on this plane and prefer the SF props for the weight savings. I ran that motor with a 12/6E and a 2200 3S and I had to work hard to get the battery far back enough to balance with that prop. You will be able to make that work for you though so no worries.

I did glue the cowl and have changed motor a dozen times with no issue. There is enough room to get the motor in and out if you use the right technique. Use gravity to slide the motor and ESC up through the cowl and fiddle with it until you get the shaft through the hole. Once you do that, lock onto the shaft with some forcepts and pull the motor in place and then use gravity to hold it there while you use another implement to turn the motor to where the bolts line up. It's easy.

It's a fun plane! Keep us posted with your build and thoughts as you go along!
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