Fellow P-47 Pilots,

I think you will enjoy my latest video. Please send me any comments you have. I apologize in advance for the less-than-perfect video. However I think you will agree the overall effect is a little bit of magic!

Best regards,

Jackson

Hun Hunter On Patrol 12-06-12 (5 min 13 sec)

Ok the APC prop does feel like it flies a bit faster but not a huge overall difference

Beancounter,

That is the 17x8 prop. I think the plane will do much better on a 16x12.

Jackson

That was awesome.... loved the video and the background music and that engine sound. Looks like you have your jug set up nicely.

1 question.. have you fixed the tail wheel down? replaced it ?

Originally Posted by Toppers

That was awesome.... loved the video and the background music and that engine sound. Looks like you have your jug set up nicely.

1 question.. have you fixed the tail wheel down? replaced it ?

Toppers,

I had some issues with the tail wheel that I have not attended to yet. So I just left the tailwheel retract servo unplugged. Most people wouldn't notice...

My Hun Hunter is a big hit at the flying field. It flies really nice and the sound system adds a major piece of scale realism. Check out MRRCSound.com for more information on the sound system.

Thanks Toppers,

Jackson

Jackson, AWESOME video, very cool, loved all of it. Great touch & go too, beautiful sky as well.

Also, I flew the P47 with an 18x10 APC thin electric on 5s with my N5065 410kv motor. It flew great, fast & unlimited vertical. Pulls 72 Amps static on 5s 5300mAh. I think I like this prop even more than the 16x12 APC, static current draw was almost identical between the two props. So far I've managed not to scrape the tips of the 18 incher on my imperfect dirt runway. It also flew very well with the 18x10 on 4s 6000mAh as well, noticeably faster than stock & better climb too

Originally Posted by CrashMaster39

Jackson, AWESOME video, very cool, loved all of it. Great touch & go too, beautiful sky as well.

Also, I flew the P47 with an 18x10 APC thin electric on 5s with my N5065 410kv motor. It flew great, fast & unlimited vertical. Pulls 72 Amps static on 5s 5300mAh. I think I like this prop even more than the 16x12 APC, static current draw was almost identical between the two props. So far I've managed not to scrape the tips of the 18 incher on my imperfect dirt runway. It also flew very well with the 18x10 on 4s 6000mAh as well, noticeably faster than stock & better climb too

Thanks for the compliment Crashmaster! It was a fun project to put together.

Also thanks for the info on the APC 18x10 thin electric prop. You may notice in the video that I had photos of a big black prop with yellow tips, but the flight sequence was with a gray prop. The big black prop was a Master Airscrew "Classic" 18x8. I thought this would be a good prop but it has alot of mass and the performance was very disappointing. I basically flew around the field once, landed the plane and switched to the APC. The APC had better performance, and is a better designed prop overall, but definitely needs more pitch.

I am expecting an order from Tower Hobbies to arrive this next week with the APC 15.5x12x4, the 16x12 and a 17x12. I may go ahead and order the 18x10 and 18x12 thin electric to test them as well. What I want is a fast plane that does not chew up the power; i.e. I want the best performance I can get for the least amp and watt draw. If I make another video, I will use the stock four blade for ground and landing sequences, then use one of the above props for the fun flying sequences.

Cheers,

Jackson

FYI, the APC prop in the video was a 17x8. It had adequate performance but I want more.

Jackson

Hi Jackson,

I had the greatest difficulty getting the steering for the tail gear set up right.... either the wires were too lose or snagged on something or started to slip / loosen, etc... I put this down to my fat fingers... but eventually I got it approximately right and touch wood it's boon OK since.

At the time I seriously considered doing what the guys on Flitetest did... just make the tail wheel center with a single wire attached to a spring, relying on the rudder only to steer on the ground... not great for taxiing but probably OK for takeoff..

Toppers,

I think a pull-pull rudder and tail wheel system is ideal from what I have heard from guys that I consider to be expert. I just need to figure out a technique that makes this a reasonable project. I don't think the supplied hardware is necessarily the answer. Perhaps some one else has some experience and can weigh in here.

What I think I want is some connectors that tie into the tailwheel and string or wire that threads through the servo arm with an extra loop to keep it in place on the servo arm. The ideal would be an arrangement that was fixed for ordinary use, but easy enough to adjust as necessary. I would like the tailwheel connectors to have a metal link where it connects to the tailwheel and some means of adjusting the overall tension in the system.

Anybody out there want to weigh in on this topic?

Jackson

Originally Posted by Jackson Stone

Toppers,

I think a pull-pull rudder and tail wheel system is ideal from what I have heard from guys that I consider to be expert.


Anybody out there want to weigh in on this topic?

Jackson

Take a minute and watch this install, might be what your lookin for.

3D Hobby Shop 48" Velox VR1 Build Video #4 (7 min 52 sec)

Originally Posted by Toppers

Hi Jackson,
At the time I seriously considered doing what the guys on Flitetest did... just make the tail wheel center with a single wire attached to a spring, relying on the rudder only to steer on the ground... not great for taxiing but probably OK for takeoff..

After some issues I tried the castering tail wheel, like flight test used, but I HATED it. Not only did it suck for taxiing, but when I would make a higher g turn at end of runway on u-turns with some speed, the spring would suddenly give and the back end would whip around.

I had trouble with original pull-pull because a wire crimp slipped twice on hard (dropped) side load. So after trying the castering setup, I went back to pull-pull cables, but I added some fairly stiff springs on each side, in the cable line. Now if I have a sudden side load, the spring can stretch and let the wheel give, without breaking or stressing the cable too much. It required stiffer springs than I would have suspected.

I also have the pull pull wires going to from spring to hard push-rods. The push-rods go to normal quick connectors on the rudder servo arm, so I can easily adjust cable tension and/or wheel centering by sliding the push-rods through the quick connectors, just like you do for rudder adjustments. So I have 3 push-rods coming off of the rudder servo, instead of 1 pushrod and 2 cables.

I'm certainly no expert, but this is working great for me, about 50 take-off & landings, many on dirt with no problems (yet). Although after watching the excellent video that Mcnowhere posted, I am wondering why we need any crimped loops at all. I think on my next pull-pull, I will try just putting the cable through the quick connector like a push-rod, and tighten the screw down on the cable. That would make like a crimp, and may make it possible to change the length of the cable and adjust tension if needed. Watching him triple check the cable length before crimping reminded me why I hated the whole process.

Originally Posted by CrashMaster39

After some issues I tried the castering tail wheel, like flight test used, but I HATED it. Not only did it suck for taxiing, but when I would make a higher g turn at end of runway on u-turns with some speed, the spring would suddenly give and the back end would whip around.

I had trouble with original pull-pull because a wire crimp slipped twice on hard (dropped) side load. So after trying the castering setup, I went back to pull-pull cables, but I added some fairly stiff springs on each side, in the cable line. Now if I have a sudden side load, the spring can stretch and let the wheel give, without breaking or stressing the cable too much. It required stiffer springs than I would have suspected.

I also have the pull pull wires going to from spring to hard push-rods. The push-rods go to normal quick connectors on the rudder servo arm, so I can easily adjust cable tension and/or wheel centering by sliding the push-rods through the quick connectors, just like you do for rudder adjustments. So I have 3 push-rods coming off of the rudder servo, instead of 1 pushrod and 2 cables.

I'm certainly no expert, but this is working great for me, about 50 take-off & landings, many on dirt with no problems (yet). Although after watching the excellent video that Mcnowhere posted, I am wondering why we need any crimped loops at all. I think on my next pull-pull, I will try just putting the cable through the quick connector like a push-rod, and tighten the screw down on the cable. That would make like a crimp, and may make it possible to change the length of the cable and adjust tension if needed. Watching him triple check the cable length before crimping reminded me why I hated the whole process.

Crashmaster and MCNowhere,

Thanks for the input. I actually have pushrods that connect to cables at the end. The tension is adjustable. The problem has been that the tailwheel sometimes gets tied up in the slack wires and does not deploy properly. I think this problem can be solved by creating guides like Crashmaster has. All that being said, I really enjoyed the pull-pull system video and think that a similar system would be the ideal way to go. It is interesting to me that the pros cross their wires, makes sense but it is not so obvious to us novices.

Best regards,

Jackson

Hi !
My last settings is motor Turnigy L5055 400KV & 6s 5000mah lipo & APC 16X12 thin electric prop tested pest speed and vertical power .Test. telemetri system Guanum, max 72A for vertical & 65+flight speed +9min flight taim !. Plane veight is now 4030g & tis is perfeckt for my. Sorry bad video: http://youtu.be/OOr4crVVFvs?t=2m4s

Originally Posted by Aivar

Hi !
My last settings is motor Turnigy L5055 400KV & 6s 5000mah lipo & APC 16X12 thin electric prop tested pest speed and vertical power .Test. telemetri system Guanum, max 72A for vertical & 65+flight speed +9min flight taim !. Plane veight is now 4030g & tis is perfeckt for my. Sorry bad video: http://youtu.be/OOr4crVVFvs?t=2m4s

onli bad thin is :noisless!