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Old Oct 30, 2012, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Sajtqkac View Post
I did that but nothing changed. When I switch the transmitter the mechanic buzz(I don't know how to say that but I hear a little nois from it) once and nothing until I press the legs. If I pull it, it doesn't work... Only if I push it.
Yep sounds like somethings not right inside of it. Like peter says open it up and go from there.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 08:14 PM
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Hmmm, a thought.
Seeing you need to PUSH it, that might move the trunion a bit and then move the 'drive bar' a bit, so that it finally presses the end micro-switch enough to get it all back into operation.
So check the micro-switches at both ends of the circuit board, to see if they are loose (solder broken) or something not quite right there.

But, yes, at $8..... next time you get some stuff, get a few spares. They are handy sooner or later.
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Old Oct 31, 2012, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sajtqkac View Post
I did that but nothing changed. When I switch the transmitter the mechanic buzz(I don't know how to say that but I hear a little nois from it) once and nothing until I press the legs. If I pull it, it doesn't work... Only if I push it.
This sounds like exactly what BOTH of my 514s do. They jam in the up position if they are obstructed by the tires hitting the foam during the last 5 degrees of rotation. When it happens, the only way to get the retract to open is to PUSH it closed while hitting the switch to open them. Are your tires or oleos hitting the foam at all when retracted? Are your tires free to spin when retracted into the wheel wells?

I had this problem multiple times while working on my set up to fit 4 inch tires and oleos on my 514s. They would jam up in the closed position intermittently until I made the wheel well deep enough to completely fit the tire without touching significantly. Then it reoccurred in flight after I added forward angle to the legs which made the wheels hit the foam again. I had to remove the forward angle. The jamming occurred again after my plywood mount got jammed into the foam a little which made the tire hit the foam again. All of these times I was able to correct the problem by adjusting things so that the 514 was able to retract completely without any obstruction.

If anybody figures out how to fix this issue by disassembling and modifying the 514, please let me know as this would make the 514s much easier to set up.
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Old Oct 31, 2012, 07:45 AM
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Don't run 5s with stock motor and stock prop!!

I got some 5s lipos to get some more speed from my Jug. Static tested them last night, 5s 5300mAh 30c with the stock 4 blade prop last night. While doing static tests with my Watt meter and fresh charge, it pulled 80 Amps 1430Watts for first 3 seconds, then I ran it for a minute at half throttle to cool down, then full throttle for 5 seconds 75 Amps, then some cool down, then I decided to run the battery down to storage voltage and put it at 3/4 throttle 60 Amps and the motor burned out after about 20 seconds at 60 Amps . Oh well. Shoulda known better. I thought I had read here that some people were getting away with running 5s with stock motor/prop, maybe they were more careful than I.

I've looked everywhere I can think of for a cheap replacement motor that can handle 5s & stock 4-blade prop. I think I'm going to try this motor from Leaderhobby https://www.leaderhobby.com/product....=9394001224334 I'll glue a circle of plywood to the the surface where the dummy radial mounts and go from there. DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF ANY OTHER INEXPENSIVE MOTOR OPTIONS for stock prop & 5s???, I figure it needs to be 400 kV and rated 80 amp 1500 Watt? Do you guys think this one from Leader will handle 5s?
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Old Oct 31, 2012, 08:10 AM
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You are basically correct about the motor you need for your 5S case. You can probably get away with 1300W to 1400W, as you won't use WOT all the time..... but you also need a motor that can do the 80Amps - again, maybe some amount less, 70A+ area.
OR... spend a bit more to be sure you have something that needs no care and will last better.
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Old Oct 31, 2012, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by CrashMaster39 View Post
I got some 5s lipos to get some more speed from my Jug. Static tested them last night, 5s 5300mAh 30c with the stock 4 blade prop last night. While doing static tests with my Watt meter and fresh charge, it pulled 80 Amps 1430Watts for first 3 seconds, then I ran it for a minute at half throttle to cool down, then full throttle for 5 seconds 75 Amps, then some cool down, then I decided to run the battery down to storage voltage and put it at 3/4 throttle 60 Amps and the motor burned out after about 20 seconds at 60 Amps . Oh well. Shoulda known better. I thought I had read here that some people were getting away with running 5s with stock motor/prop, maybe they were more careful than I.

I've looked everywhere I can think of for a cheap replacement motor that can handle 5s & stock 4-blade prop. I think I'm going to try this motor from Leaderhobby https://www.leaderhobby.com/product....=9394001224334 I'll glue a circle of plywood to the the surface where the dummy radial mounts and go from there. DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF ANY OTHER INEXPENSIVE MOTOR OPTIONS for stock prop & 5s???, I figure it needs to be 400 kV and rated 80 amp 1500 Watt? Do you guys think this one from Leader will handle 5s?
I have two stock spares one brand new and one with 4 flights with bent cans. If your can is still ok you could get back in the air again with these. I am currently in India on a business trip so I can't ship until Nov 12 though.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1752111
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 08:08 AM
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Question.... what propellers have people tried on the stock motor to provide a little more zip. I love the looks and thrust of the stock 4 blade but it seems to max out the motor anything above 60% (above 60% there is not increase in rpm for increased throttle).

I'd love to hear your experiences.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 11:25 AM
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Replacement Motor for Starmax P-47

Hi guys,

I have recently purchased a 580 kv "Firepower 60 Sport" motor from HeadsUpRc as a replacement to the stock motor on the Starmax P-47. You can find details at this link: http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...h-06%29/Detail

I tested this motor with the stock prop and ESC and found it pulled 1800 watts and 120 amps at full power. So, I limited the power to 80% using the throttle curve on my DX-8 transmitter and found it pulled 1250 watts and 80 amps; the motor is supposed to handle 1250 watts and the stock ESC is labeled as an 80 amp unit. I test flew this configuration and found the power to be very satisfactory. Unfortunately the stock ESC was not able to handle the load and I experienced a loss of power after three minutes that ended up in a rough landing in a field. Tore out the gear. I have since replaced the ESC with a 120 amp ESC from Hobby King. I am rebuilding the landing gear mount for my HK-514 servoless retracts, HK "P-47" oleo struts, and 3.5 inch wheels. Expect to have her back in the air soon.

So, for those asking about replacement motors in the quest for greater power using the lovely stock prop I do believe the HURC motor is a candidate with the qualification that the stock ESC must also be replaced, and the throttle range somehow limited.

As far as the motor mount, I replace the stock set up with a plywood firewall that fits to the foam where the dummy foam engine slides in. I also added a 1/2 thick piece of oak epoxied to the plywood disk to screw the engine mount into.

Good luck to all who are experimenting with motor and ESC mods in the quest for greater power. I think the power I achieved with the HURC motor is going to give me the flying experience I have been looking for while maintaining the scale appeal of the big four-blade prop.

Regards,

Jackson
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackson Stone View Post
Hi guys,

I have recently purchased a 580 kv "Firepower 60 Sport" motor from HeadsUpRc as a replacement to the stock motor on the Starmax P-47. You can find details at this link: http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...h-06%29/Detail

I tested this motor with the stock prop and ESC and found it pulled 1800 watts and 120 amps at full power. So, I limited the power to 80% using the throttle curve on my DX-8 transmitter and found it pulled 1250 watts and 80 amps; the motor is supposed to handle 1250 watts and the stock ESC is labeled as an 80 amp unit. I test flew this configuration and found the power to be very satisfactory. Unfortunately the stock ESC was not able to handle the load and I experienced a loss of power after three minutes that ended up in a rough landing in a field. Tore out the gear. I have since replaced the ESC with a 120 amp ESC from Hobby King. I am rebuilding the landing gear mount for my HK-514 servoless retracts, HK "P-47" oleo struts, and 3.5 inch wheels. Expect to have her back in the air soon.

So, for those asking about replacement motors in the quest for greater power using the lovely stock prop I do believe the HURC motor is a candidate with the qualification that the stock ESC must also be replaced, and the throttle range somehow limited.

As far as the motor mount, I replace the stock set up with a plywood firewall that fits to the foam where the dummy foam engine slides in. I also added a 1/2 thick piece of oak epoxied to the plywood disk to screw the engine mount into.

Good luck to all who are experimenting with motor and ESC mods in the quest for greater power. I think the power I achieved with the HURC motor is going to give me the flying experience I have been looking for while maintaining the scale appeal of the big four-blade prop.

Regards,

Jackson

Can you tell us what battery you used with that motor? Did you jump to 6S?

Thanks
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 07:17 PM
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United States, OR, McMinnville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackson Stone View Post
Hi guys,


. So, I limited the power to 80% using the throttle curve on my DX-8 transmitter and found it pulled 1250 watts and 80 amps; the motor is supposed to handle 1250 watts and the stock ESC is labeled as an 80 amp unit.

I have since replaced the ESC with a 120 amp ESC from Hobby King. I do believe the HURC motor is a candidate with the qualification that the stock ESC must also be replaced, and the throttle range somehow limited.


Regards,

Jackson
Just a warning that motor has a max amps of 60 for 30 sec
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 11:22 PM
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Battery Setup for P-47

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beancounter View Post
Can you tell us what battery you used with that motor? Did you jump to 6S?

Thanks
Hi Beancounter,

No. I am running two 4000 mAh 4S batteries in parallel. So it is effectively an 8000 mAh (8 amp) 4S battery. The batteries are labelled 40-50 C, which theoretically allows me to draw 320 to 400 amps continuously.

I am hoping to achieve 6-8 minute flight times with some throttle management.

Jackson
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 11:30 PM
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HURC Firepower 60 Sport

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcnowhere View Post
Just a warning that motor has a max amps of 60 for 30 sec
MCNowhere,

You are correct to point out the amp rating as being 60 amps. However this does not make much sense to me. If you are running able to pull 1250 watts and the voltage range is 11.1 to 22.2 I would expect a conservative common usage voltage to be 14.8. Dividing 1250 by 14.8 yields 84 amps.

As a comparison I ran a 46-sized FIrepower motor at a consistent 70-80 amps over 50+ flights. It has a 30 second no-exceed amp rating of 45 amps. I guess this experience tells me these motors have significant "head room" over specs.

Hope this makes sense to you.

Regards,

Jackson
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackson Stone View Post
MCNowhere,

It has a 30 second no-exceed amp rating of 45 amps. I guess this experience tells me these motors have significant "head room" over specs.

Hope this makes sense to you.

Regards,

Jackson
Yep it does. I put that out there because I have a coworker that likes to leave throttle at full. So the fix for him was to prop down.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 09:08 AM
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I find it amazing that the stock set up is able to handle the stock 4 blade prop. I have measured the power and current to be 955W and 65A on a 4s battery.... that's a lot of power of the size of motor. It's not surprising that the motor doesn't seem to have anything left to give over 60% throttle.

I think the MAS 3 blade 16x10 or 2 blades will be interesting to try (or hear about).
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackson Stone View Post
You are correct to point out the amp rating as being 60 amps. However this does not make much sense to me. If you are running able to pull 1250 watts and the voltage range is 11.1 to 22.2 I would expect a conservative common usage voltage to be 14.8. Dividing 1250 by 14.8 yields 84 amps.

As a comparison I ran a 46-sized FIrepower motor at a consistent 70-80 amps over 50+ flights. It has a 30 second no-exceed amp rating of 45 amps. I guess this experience tells me these motors have significant "head room" over specs.

Hope this makes sense to you.

Regards,

Jackson
Hmmm, just a caution, but I am pretty sure that with most brushless motors that only give one Watt rating, like the EMP's, the watt rating is based on the maximum number of allowable cells. This would mean that the watt rating on your motor is for running 6s not 4s. It is normally the Amps of current that kill a brushless motor and having the same Watts of power with more cells would mean less amps to get that same power. I have learned this the hard way with two different motors, one in this plane http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=429

My understanding is that it is best to use the max continuouse Amps as the main factor for stress on a motor. I have noticed that many expensive motors will give a several different power ratings depending on cell count, and they are much higher watts ratings for higher number of cells. Unfortunately, these EMP motors and other similar ones are not usually clear on max amps, they give an ESC rating, which may be the max amps, but hard to tell. And they only give one Watt rating, which is probably for the highest rated input voltage.

I like your idea of limiting the throttle endpoint to prevent overload of the motor. It sounds like both you and Mcnowhere have had luck with this method. I have two large cheap ESCs that I have to use manual throttle range setting, so I may try this.

The stock motor is supposedly a 400 kv, so your 580 kv seems pretty high RPM. I tried a N4260 500 kv and determined it was way too fast for the stock prop (and I smoked it, see post referenced above). I recently ordered a bigger and lower kv N5065 400 kv motor. I am hoping to be able to run both 4s and 5s with this motor. With my big 4s lipos should get stock speed and long flights, and with the 5s it should be faster. I finally broke down and invested in a 5s lipo.
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