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Old Oct 24, 2012, 06:08 PM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
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Hehe, I see/feel the opposite.....
I see videos of people taking off (from anywhere) and 90% of them skewing awry and 'leaping' into the air, and I wonder how come so many people do that!? LOL
It is so 'easy' to prevent it. So it leaves me perplexed over how come they don't. (though everyone will go through that same process initially, as it is the way models will take off if NOT controlled so as not do that!)
Surely cause and effect is obvious enough - and easy to test/demonstrate by just doing it all MUCH slower.... and then they would see and say "Oh, it was just that...".

From what I have seen, the fin on most (all?) warbirds is 'big enough'... adequate..... to do the job intended. That is to keep the aircraft aligned when at speed.... and it begins from a reasonably low speed.
Then there is the rudder of course, which works better the faster airflow is, and is somewhat ineffective at initial low speeds - but you have the tail-wheel to cover that short period.
So all in all the tools to go straight are there..... versus the tool to NOT go straight - POWER, motor/propeller torque. Cause... effect....

You can't totally remove the errant source - torque effect - but you can keep it at a low enough level so the fin/rudder can win overall. So whatever lower power level that is, that is what you just have to do.

If you are weaving a bit on tail-wheel use initially, you might need some Expo, or less tail-wheel steering..... or more practice at being sensitive on the stick.
I do (have) seen that issue on some planes I have, and then need to improve that aspect by methods just mentioned above. (the same issue can occur on trike aircraft anyway)
So monitor that initial steering part, and sort that out too. I guess just start VERY slow, VERY low and slow power addition, more as a training to STEER than to take-off. Still take-off at some point after that, however you want, but focus on that initial process so you can work that out first... then move on to the next stage to learn.

That initial steering could be a large part of the following process going astray. Imagine if you are fighting steering issues - tail-wheel, and crossing into rudder even, AND then add more power.... possibly a bit fast.... you have created a complex combination of control needs. Because you didn't get each step done nicely before adding/reaching the next one.

But it is easier to write than do! LOL
Though once you do work out the HOW, and then do that, you will end up just doing it fine and easily eventually.
Definitely keep that power increase rate in check!! Better to be too little than too much, while learning. Then build on the other aspects.... initial up elevator with tail wheel steering, switching (aiming that to be a smooth flow one day) into rudder with no elevator, THEN into SOME more power. And maybe that took 100ft or whatever.... no rush, whatever it takes it takes. Excessive distance will reduce as you get to do all the things closer spaced and more 'overlapped'/complex when experienced.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 07:58 AM
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Hello Everyone!

Yesterday I finished my retract. I changed the stock mechanic to a 514 with oleo legs. I tried it out and I have a little problem... The one of the mechanics stucks in randomly and I don't know why. It is happening with and without the oleo legs and if the oleo legs in and it stucked I have to press the legs a little to come down... I disassembled it and didn't found anything. Someone experienced it too before?
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 08:10 AM
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United States, OR, McMinnville
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sajtqkac View Post
Hello Everyone!

Yesterday I finished my retract. I changed the stock mechanic to a 514 with oleo legs. I tried it out and I have a little problem... The one of the mechanics stucks in randomly and I don't know why. It is happening with and without the oleo legs and if the oleo legs in and it stucked I have to press the legs a little to come down... I disassembled it and didn't found anything. Someone experienced it too before?
Sounds like its not reaching its full throw. Since it does it with oleo off it must be the shaft might be hitting or rubbing inside the 514. Can you see the end of the shaft inside the retract?
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sajtqkac View Post
Yesterday I finished my retract. I changed the stock mechanic to a 514 with oleo legs. I tried it out and I have a little problem... The one of the mechanics stucks in randomly and I don't know why. It is happening with and without the oleo legs and if the oleo legs in and it stucked I have to press the legs a little to come down... I disassembled it and didn't found anything. Someone experienced it too before?
I have experienced the same problems with 514's on this plane, but only with large 4 inch wheels that were hitting the foam before the retract could move through the full travel. To fix the problem, I have had to put a 3 mm plywood spacer between the base of the 514 and the wing to lift the whole retract up. Just do whatever you have to do to allow the 514 to close completely without binding or hitting anywhere. For some reason the 514s do not like to be obstructed right before full retraction, I think it jams up the gears or something. Good luck, and let us know how it works out. Where do you live bye the way?
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 05:38 PM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
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You might have some "twisting pressure" on the retract mounting plate.
Loosen all the mounting screws (the 4) and try it then, to show if it is them.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 10:53 PM
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Jackson Stone's Avatar
USA, CO, Parker
Joined Dec 2009
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The Perfect Scale Takeoff

Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
Hehe, I see/feel the opposite.....
I see videos of people taking off (from anywhere) and 90% of them skewing awry and 'leaping' into the air, and I wonder how come so many people do that!? LOL

So monitor that initial steering part, and sort that out too. I guess just start VERY slow, VERY low and slow power addition, more as a training to STEER than to take-off. Still take-off at some point after that, however you want, but focus on that initial process so you can work that out first... then move on to the next stage to learn.

That initial steering could be a large part of the following process going astray. Imagine if you are fighting steering issues - tail-wheel, and crossing into rudder even, AND then add more power.... possibly a bit fast.... you have created a complex combination of control needs. Because you didn't get each step done nicely before adding/reaching the next one.

But it is easier to write than do! LOL
Though once you do work out the HOW, and then do that, you will end up just doing it fine and easily eventually.
Definitely keep that power increase rate in check!! Better to be too little than too much, while learning. Then build on the other aspects.... initial up elevator with tail wheel steering, switching (aiming that to be a smooth flow one day) into rudder with no elevator, THEN into SOME more power. And maybe that took 100ft or whatever.... no rush, whatever it takes it takes. Excessive distance will reduce as you get to do all the things closer spaced and more 'overlapped'/complex when experienced.
Peter,

Great post! I have to agree, despite my earlier post, that the ideal scale take off will involve very careful increases in power and the application of "just enough" rudder. Also LOTS OF PRACTICE!!! I bet you are very good at achieving these takeoffs and can show the rest of us how to do this.

I have been distracted from my P-47 by work and some personal travel. Am back home now and looking forward to finishing some retrofits of my landing gear (new 514s and new metal struts), plus some fine-tuning of my sound module installation. Hope to have the "Hun Hunter" airborne this next week and get some video to share back with you.

Regards,

Jackson
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 09:57 AM
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Joined Feb 2012
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I don't see the end of the shaft because I cut it a little.I think other thing cause this problem because it does if it installed or it is not and it happens too if the 4 screw are in or if there are out. I hope it doesn't faulty because I don't want to wait other 2 weeks to arrive the new one.

BTW I'm from Hungary so sorry about my english but I'm learning it for 3 months.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 06:30 PM
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Well, seeing you can move the leg and it then DOES operate, that suggests there is some reason it is binding/jamming.
So take it right out... have no leg or pin in it.. test that first... then add bits back on...
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 09:25 PM
Mike
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Peter, how do you find the flight characteristics of this plane versus the Durafly P-51?
I have this P-47 on the way. The biggest warbird I currently own is the Durafly P-51. I was wondering what kind of behavior I should be expecting during takeoff and landings so I don't get caught off guard.

Appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 01:19 AM
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Mike, I have the Starmax P-51 (not a P-47, which I should really have got instead), so most stuff about it is the same as the P-47... but not the flying. The P-47's are generally a nicer flying plane than the P-51.
The Durafly P-51 flying is ok, but a bit 'finnicky' compared to almost all other planes I have... from 1100mm to 1600mm. So if you can fly the Durafly you can fly these EASILY !! LOL

Bigger is 'scarier', but only psychological as you think 'cost of crash'. But in reality they are easier and nicer to fly! So TRY to totally ignore any fears and just fly it as confident as the Durafly. I guess give the Durafly a flight first (if you can fit and take both) to get into the groove, and then make yourself BELIEVE the P-47 is going to be just as easy. hehe
Everything you do to take-off etc is the same. A bit of patience... or at worst, if for some reason you need to, get it in the air quicker.
These days the Durafly feels like a little toy compared to many of my larger planes (1400mm to 1600mm).
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 04:17 AM
Mike
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Peter, thanks for the reply. That is reassuring to know. Now I'm just looking forward to receive this plane.
I never had a P-47 before as I prefer the looks of the P-51, F4U, BF-109, Spitfires, FW-190... well, a lot of other birds
Good to know that P-47 are easier than P-51.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 05:58 AM
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I think the P-47 looks "refreshingly different", than the million P-51's around. LOL.
So if you have the Durafly P-51, one is enough. That was why I regretted not getting the P-47 (which they also had in stock in Aust at the time), and then also the day after I ordered the P-51 the SkyRaider came to the Aust Warehouse and I would have got that instead then!
P-47 and A-1 both that bit different to the more common P-51. BAH.
I will get one of those two eventually.... and I look at those now and then, and it seems the more you do look at some specific other plane/s the more they can grow on you too.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
Well, seeing you can move the leg and it then DOES operate, that suggests there is some reason it is binding/jamming.
So take it right out... have no leg or pin in it.. test that first... then add bits back on...
I did that but nothing changed. When I switch the transmitter the mechanic buzz(I don't know how to say that but I hear a little nois from it) once and nothing until I press the legs. If I pull it, it doesn't work... Only if I push it.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 06:10 AM
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Still sounds like something is jamming.
You can open it and run it.....
First to just let the motor run - removed fromthe gears and the circuit board aside.
Next, with motor in gears again, but keep the trunion out..... so just the motor and worm gear run.
See how that goes for a start.
Hopefully whatever it does, or doesn't do, will give a clue.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 08:57 AM
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Or just swap in a spare 514 .... at $8 a pop, it's worth having a few spare.
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