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Old Sep 21, 2011, 07:01 PM
Wood Chucker
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USA, TX, Allen
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That's awesome Mike. I'm sure you guys will enjoy the heck out of them. I was out flying yesterday while my work laptop was down for the count thanks to corporate IT pushing some untested bits. I flew for two and a half hours on 1 and a half battery packs. Two of those were launches right into sink. The electric winch on the nose sure is nice to have and in my opinion a key reason why I've been much more successful at learning to find lift. I can experiment with locations and observe what the air is doing much more without the worry of having to walk half a mile to retrieve my model. I did have a flight yesterday that I thought for sure was going to end up in me building another Chrysalis though. Once it finds lift, it doesn't want to stop climbing!
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 03:28 AM
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Although not a kit but a plan with a laser cut wood pack available this might be a route for you to go as it can be built as a 2 or 2.5 metre span model and quite a few have been built now.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1108935
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 09:05 PM
OK,so what's the speed of dark
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Glenwood,GA
Joined Aug 2006
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I have the Chrysalis 2M and LOVE it. I don't think there is a better 2M out there in this price range. I have a KDA 20-22 motor and 10X6 folding prop and love the way it preforms. Couldn't ask for anything better.

The biggest problem I have found with this glider is that it was designed for a speed 600 motor and NiCad's. That makes it a little tail heavy for the newer motors. My KD weighs about 1/3 what a speed 600 weighs, so I had to put a 2200MAh 3S battery in there to get the CG close. I think I had to add 1/2 oz of led along with that to get the CG right on. You should be able to get the wight at 40Z total or less with no problems and it will fly fantastic.

This is a great building plane and a joy to put together. It also flies fantastic and I have never had a problem with the spoilers not bringing it down when I want. They are very effective. I installed my servos with a direct push from my servo arm instead of using that linkage they show on the plans, because it is easier to set up, but theirs works great too.

The only thing I can say is follow the directions and your Chrysalis will come out great. Put the right washout in the wing and you will not regret buying this kit. I think it is one of the best on the market and for this price you can't beat it. Good luck and happy thermaling.

Ed
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 10:39 PM
Wood Chucker
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USA, TX, Allen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mred3 View Post
This is a great building plane and a joy to put together. It also flies fantastic and I have never had a problem with the spoilers not bringing it down when I want. They are very effective. I installed my servos with a direct push from my servo arm instead of using that linkage they show on the plans, because it is easier to set up, but theirs works great too.
I agree Ed. I used the same method on my spoilers since I was fighting with the design linkage. When it comes to small bends in small wires I failed horribly. Don does a good job of demonstrating it but I just couldn't get the linkages to stay in place once I put them through the control horns. I think my radius was too large. I think if I pressed the bends up against something hard to close the radius then it would have worked better for me. For future models I will probably just do something like this:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=955499
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Old Sep 29, 2011, 10:47 AM
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United States, NC, Greensboro
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Thanks for the heads up, Ed and Lacquerhead... any chance you guys have photos of your servo to spoiler relationship <on the Chrysalis> you can share?

I haven't started the build yet, since I have to build a shed to move the mower, tiller, pressure washer and others out of the garage to create the hobby area in the garage. But the gravel and skids for the foundation are on hand, so i should get that knocked out in a couple of weeks.

Anyway, I think I've seen the point mentioned before regarding the spoiler setup, and would really appreciate someone showing me what the mod looks like.

Mike
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Old Sep 29, 2011, 11:08 AM
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A number of ways to do it. Basically they just have the end of the arm on the servo swing up against the underside of the spoiler panel to push it up, frequently with a patch of 1/64" ply on the underside of the spoiler panel to keep the servo arm from eventually digging a rut in it. They use one of those tiny rare earth magnets on the underside of the spoiler's trailing edge, with a #4 washer or a piece of paper clip in the wing to hold the spoiler shut when it's not supposed to be open. I'm trying the same arrangement on the 3-meter.
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Old Sep 29, 2011, 12:58 PM
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Thanks, Don-- Really glad, by the way, that I waited for the delivery of the C2mE, and I'm really eager to start the build. What you describe sounds simple enough, so in the absence of pics I'll be better able to visualize the installation after I get the wing going. This is my first build since a tissue and dope free flyer I built as a kid.

Mike
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Old Sep 29, 2011, 01:10 PM
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It's intended to be a trainer for both buiding and flying, but enough performance and control response that you will not outgrow it, unlike typical trainers. You should do fine.

Just remember, the ony truly "dumb" question is one that you should have asked, but didn't!
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Old Sep 29, 2011, 03:13 PM
Wood Chucker
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USA, TX, Allen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EightOhMike View Post
Thanks, Don-- Really glad, by the way, that I waited for the delivery of the C2mE, and I'm really eager to start the build. What you describe sounds simple enough, so in the absence of pics I'll be better able to visualize the installation after I get the wing going. This is my first build since a tissue and dope free flyer I built as a kid.

Mike
Many methods noted in this thread. The first one shown is what Don is talking about and what I've been using on my models. I can program endpoints individually so that makes it a bit easier. I know there is also a Y-cable with an adjustment pot on one side if you want to run the spoiler servos from a single channel.

This method is one I'm likely to use on my next sailplane.
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 11:55 PM
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Got it done!

Well, it's complete and flying, after a winter spent putting it together. Again, it's my first build in many years, and certainly not a perfect example of a Chrysalis, but she flies straight and true, and apparently efficiently. Probably is flying efficiently, but at this point I wouldn't know it if it wasn't. That'll come with more experience, I believe.

Between flying for a living and the rainy weather lately, I've not had much chance to get out and try to find a thermal ... so for the moment, I figured I'd put up some pics of the build:
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 08:52 AM
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Looks great, nice job!
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 10:41 PM
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Hi praise, and much appreciated from anyone, but especially the designer. Thanks, Don. I took it to Falls Lake dam today, just northeast of Raleigh, NC. Some slope lift, but I'm not good enough yet to keep it in the stuff, plus the LZ is a lot more challenging than local flat fields where I'm trying to track down thermals.

Still tons o' fun, and the learning is part of the design objective. The thermal hunting is much less nerve-wracking, so far, given the wide, flat landing zone. Tomorrow I might head over to the Blue Ridge Parkway and check out The Lump, a bald mountain top with lots of room to land, and good lift, I've heard. Lovely views, to boot

Thank you all, very much, who were influential in the decision to build the Chrysalis, and who helped clear things up along the way. I sincerely appreciate it.

Mike
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Old May 01, 2012, 01:48 AM
Wood Chucker
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USA, TX, Allen
Joined Nov 2009
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Welcome to the club Mike. Job well done! I see you are using the Radian prop and spinner. It's sufficient but I didn't care for the big bumps it left at the joint. I feared what may happen should they contact the ground first. I ended up with an E-Flite Park 450 and Aeronaut CAM 10x6 before I got interested in getting to 200m in less than 30 seconds. Then I bumped up to a Park 480 and 12x6 Aeronaut and I can comfortably get to 200m in right around 25 seconds. I can get five good climbs out of a 1800mAh pack. Some of the hard-core glider guiders may look down on those of us with a windmill on the front but they sure do may flying convenient and you can easily get back to the lift you just fell out of or save yourself should you end up on the wrong side of the fence.

I expect you'll have many, many joyous days with your Chrysalis.

Tim in TX
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Old May 01, 2012, 07:56 AM
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Eeek! "High" praise is what I meant two posts back, not "Hi" praise... well, it was late.

Thanks, Tim. Early on in the fuse build I bought the Radian spinner/prop combo, but determined that it would just not do, and ended up with a 40 mm spinner with the 10 x 8 on a Turnigy Park 480 that we discussed in another thread. It's tight in the nose with the battery up there, and at nearly three hundred watts at full throttle, it gets a bit warm in there. Perhaps I'd be better off with the 12 x 6 you recommended, but none are handy and cheap, so I'll keep the runs to a minimum with the existing setup for a while. Once yesterday the telemetry probe registered 130 F in the compartment, which means substantially more at the motor, I imagine, though the thermistor is just aft of the motor. Still, there was no problem other than the generally warm temp.

And, I experienced my first flutter, for about a second, on a low pass along the face of the dam I was trying to slope yesterday... It sure gets your attention, and it's not something I want to flirt with again. I assume that the Chrysalis is suitable for slope flying (just not the dynamic high-speed stuff), so I'm going to head to the Blue Ridge parkway today and try to do some sloping here. Weather and SWMBO tasking permitting, of course. And given my skill level with gliding, I make no apologies for the motor, either. Especially when I'm trying sites like that where it would otherwise be easy to lose the plane...

Thanks for your help along the way.

Mike
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Old May 01, 2012, 08:51 AM
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Mike, was that tail flutter or wing flutter?

Wing flutter is the result of using light-weight (instead of regular-weight) covering on the inboard panels, or not having the covering shrunk tight enough.

Tail flutter is almost invariably the result of not having the pushrods properly supported at both ends. Tin the pushrods at the ends to stiffen them, and make sure the gap between the ends of the yellow casing tubes and the ends of the pushrods is as short as possible, just enough to allow for the linear travel of the pushrods. Make sure both ends of the casings are firmly anchored (a lot of folks don't remember to properly support things at the servo end).
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