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Old Jun 18, 2011, 11:45 PM
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Airworld Me-262

I've been working on this AW Me-262 slowly since last year. I plan on powering it with the Stumax SM89-45 DF, HET 700-68 900Kv motor, 9s 4000 packs, with CC ICE120HV ESCs. The RTF weight should be around 17 lbs.

I'm going with a Yellow 7 of II./JG 7 paint scheme. I started out with RLM 81/82/76 brown violet/pale green/light blue from Warbird Colors, didn't like the result, and then ended up repainting the RLM 81/82 with colors I mixed myself. I started out with the RLM 83 from Warbird colors, and added about 10% white to come up with a darker version of RLM 82 which didn't make me queasy when looking at it. The RLM 81 I mixed up is made from the WBC RLM 83, with about 20% red. I went through a bunch of shades, from a reddish brown to a greenish grey, and finally decided with the shade you see in the photos. The sides of the model will get heavily mottled with RLM 81/82.
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 01:18 AM
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The original kit has the ailerons molded together with the outboard flaps. I cut the outboard flaps to make them operational, and also cut out and modded the inboard flaps to make them operational. Since the wing is a fiberglass/foam sandwich composite, is has little in the way of structure inside. The main spar provides most of the structural strength. There is an aileron spar, which adds some strength as well. The landing gear mounts also provide some strength to the wing

This means that cutting the inside flap out will weaken the wing to some degree. So I added a second spar made out of 3/32nd aircraft plywood running from the inside edge of the aileron spar, to the center of the wing. I glued this in place with PU glue. I also filled in the open cutouts in the wing and flap sections with the glue and capped them with 3/32nd plywood pieces. This provides a nice box structure for strength, and seems to have made up for the loss of strength caused by cutting out the inboard flap.

I hinged the flaps by using a knife to separate the fiberglass sandwich slitting the upper wing skins and inserting three CA type hinges to simulate the aileron and outer flap "live" hinges.

Modding the flaps added a few ounces, but the look and function of the flaps is worth the few ounces to me.
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 01:36 AM
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I found the tail section on the model to be very flexible. The fuselage has no formers, and has just two carbon fiber reinforcement bands as a substitute for formers. The vertical fin and horizontal stals ccould be moved, displacing them at least an inch in either direction. It might fly just fine like that, but I didn't like it.

To strengthen the tail, I added three 1/16th plywood formers in the locations where the original had them. I glued them in with PU glue, and the mod added about 1.5 ounces.
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 01:44 AM
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College Park, MD
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I didn't get most of the wood with the kit, so I had to scratch together the nosewheel mount. I followed the general structure I've seen in other modelers pictures.

I'm using the Robart RS-540 nosewheel retract unit. The air cylinder on this unit is positioned forward, and the gear retracts backward to allow clearance for the steering cables. The cables run through nylon tubing glued to plywood pieces bolted to the sides of the nosewheel mount structure.

An HS-65MG servo is used for nosewheel steering. The servo is mounted over top of the air cylinder.
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 02:06 AM
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The main gear retracts are Robart RS-551s. I'm also using Robart 7/16th Robostruts with Robart 4" diamond tread scale wheels. The kit gear mounts seem plenty strong, but I epoxied in some triangle stock for added strength.

I mounted Robart Compact Unibrakes in the scale wheels. The brakes are pneumatic and will be actuated with an electronic valve. The air will be supplied from it's own air tank.
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 02:30 AM
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The horizontal stabs attached to the vertical fin with two carbon fiber spar tubes which are inserted into tubes in the stabs. The spars go through tubes mounted in the vertical fin. The spars are drilled for screws at each end. The screws go through the end of the spar tubes inside the horizontal stabs, capturing the spars in place, and making the assembly removable.

The HS-125MG elevator servos are mounted on hatches cut out of the horizontal stab skins, which are attached to the horizontal stabs with screws. I added 1/16th plywood flanges to the inside of the hatch cutouts to provide a surface for mounting the hatch.

The HS-125MG rudder servo is mounted to a hatch cut out of the fuselage/vertical fin. I added similar hatch flanges for servo hatch mounting.
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 02:00 PM
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Very straight forward and detailed construction. Thanks for share. How much thrust per fan on your setup?
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Old Jun 26, 2011, 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by javierospina View Post
Very straight forward and detailed construction. Thanks for share. How much thrust per fan on your setup?
Thanks. Static thrust should be around 7-8 lbs. Here's a link to some performance data for the Stumax fan and various motors. I expect to be around 2000 watts with my setup.

http://www.extremerc.com.au/estore/i...x&cPath=14_224
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Old Jun 26, 2011, 02:09 AM
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I managed to get some mottling on the sides on Friday. Spraying acrylic paint through the finest tip on a Paasche VL gun is a real pain. It's either too thin and runs everywhere or it clogs the tip constantly. I'm glad I'm done the major painting. I've just got the yellow number and bar in the Reichsverteidigung markings to go. I still need to figure out where to order the stencil decals from.
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Old Jul 02, 2011, 03:07 PM
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I just received one of the EDF units. It's a Stumax SM89-45. I will be using a HET 700-68 900kv motor with 9s packs.

The stock nacelle on the Me-262 is a couple mm bigger than the outer diameter of the EDF shroud. I'm going to have to make some type of reduction adapter.
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Old Jul 28, 2011, 01:20 PM
More jets than a carburetor
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900KV on 9s in the stumax? Thats not the right KV. 1200 KV would get you some power, 900 is going to be wimpy.

People are running 10S on th 1200KV on this motor, with the stumax and getting about 90A
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Old Aug 08, 2011, 02:43 AM
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900KV on 9s in the stumax? Thats not the right KV. 1200 KV would get you some power, 900 is going to be wimpy.

People are running 10S on th 1200KV on this motor, with the stumax and getting about 90A
Actually, 10s with the 1200kV motor is getting slightly over 100A, unless they are at high altitude. I'm at about 350ft ASL. 9s with the 1125KV motor will get you 90A and around 2800W.

After running the 900kV motor in the SM89-45 with 9s, I think I'm going to go with the 1125kV motor, and take it easy on the throttle. The model would certainly fly with the 900kV motor and 9s. But my club's field is grass, and only about 450 feet long. So I'd like to maximize the low end thrust for no sweat takeoffs.

My main concern is the limited amount of airflow through the model at that power, and I'm going to have to cut some type exit hole for the air coming in through the nosewheel opening.
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Old Aug 08, 2011, 11:47 AM
More jets than a carburetor
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Glad you upped the KV. 900kv would be like a 14s motor, or a 1200mm fan motor.
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Old Aug 08, 2011, 05:09 PM
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Glad you upped the KV. 900kv would be like a 14s motor, or a 1200mm fan motor.
I'm uncertain of your analogy. What's a 1200mm fan motor? 14s motor?
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Old Aug 08, 2011, 05:17 PM
More jets than a carburetor
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Originally Posted by thunder1 View Post
I'm uncertain of your analogy. What's a 1200mm fan motor? 14s motor?
Sorry I mean 120MM not 1200mm!!

That low of KV would probably be a high cell count or a larger fan.
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