Originally Posted by Willsonman

Yeah, he did something similar with the A-26. I have learned the true value of Gorilla glue in all its varieties from him.

I need to get some of this Gorilla glue I have heard lots of guys using it on these forums and sound to be a very versatile product!!

Bruce

Originally Posted by splinterz25

I need to get some of this Gorilla glue I have heard lots of guys using it on these forums and sound to be a very versatile product!!

Bruce

The stuff works great. It doesn't make the wood as brittle vs. CA and leaves a 'bit' of flex. Cleans up with water. Can be trimmed down with a knife. Mostly adheres to the outside(surface area) of what you apply it to vs. CA that permeates the material. Let GG or similar set for 12 hours just to safe IMHO!

Dan

Thanks ..deckert I think I 'll give this a try willsonman was telling me to use some of this w/ the foam to carve out a plug for the p-38...... So after thinking about this I need a set of cowls for the Mossie and thought this would be a good test bed for me to try and make these here I need a right and left and can cut holes in the center so I will be able to slide them in place for shaping. I have heard that Triplet cowls are are on the heavy side so maybe I can make some that are lighter. this will be good practice and if all go's well maybe I 'll do the p-38's w/ foam also, so I thinking the blue color foam as apposed to the pink??? never done this before as well so another first but that's how I keep improving and when I do this I will show if I make a or not and how to correct it if I can or who knows I may even get it right the first time??

Blue or pink... should not make a difference for this application.

Originally Posted by Willsonman

Blue or pink... should not make a difference for this application.

so both carve and sand the same?

Thanks
Bruce

More or less. Once you start working with one you will learn its weaknesses. Its like any medium... you just have to learn it by working with it. Like how hard is too hard when sanding. You will learn.

Originally Posted by Willsonman

More or less. Once you start working with one you will learn its weaknesses. Its like any medium... you just have to learn it by working with it. Like how hard is too hard when sanding. You will learn.

Willsonman ... I ordered some 3/4oz and 2oz glass cloth along with an assortment of sizes music wire 1/4" down so I can start to figure out how to make a LOCKING set of landing gear I'll follow the planes on the Mossie and use what I learn and apply that to this build I also bought some clear plastic so I can start to learn more about vacuum forming, I have some small parts again for the Mossie that I'll practice on. and I think I'll go w/ the blue foam just because I like the color better if they have that at Lowes!

hehehe. funny. Look forward to it. More than likely you will mess up your first time. I did. But it takes no time to re-do and costs next to nothing to do it. You may just end up like me. I used to be all traditional and now I am all composite.

Originally Posted by Willsonman

hehehe. funny. Look forward to it. More than likely you will mess up your first time. I did. But it takes no time to re-do and costs next to nothing to do it. You may just end up like me. I used to be all traditional and now I am all composite.

I'm not going that far just trying some new stuff it is faster and cheaper

and when you only are making one of something this looks like the way to go!

Well I have done one part of the locking strut for my Brian Taylor Mossie I will be trying to incorporate this into my already existing landing gear w/ this build. Now that I see that I can do it, just have to figure out some dimensions and how to attach it to the strut.... take a look at what I have so far.

Bruce:
The concept looks good. The only thing that I see that might need to be incorporated would be a spring, very small air cylinder in order to securely hold the drag/locking strut in the over-center position.
Rick

Originally Posted by RiBell

Bruce:
The concept looks good. The only thing that I see that might need to be incorporated would be a spring, very small air cylinder in order to securely hold the drag/locking strut in the over-center position.
Rick

Rick if you look at the center pic. the drawing there is a spring in there.


Bruce

Originally Posted by splinterz25

Rick if you look at the center pic. the drawing there is a spring in there.


Bruce

Saw that spring. I was thinking that a spring should be on the over center hinge itself. I would be a little worried that the spring in the drawing, would have too much of a mechanical disadvantage due to it's positioning.
Rick

Originally Posted by RiBell

Saw that spring. I was thinking that a spring should be on the over center hinge itself. I would be a little worried that the spring in the drawing, would have too much of a mechanical disadvantage due to it's positioning.
Rick

That's a good point... when I get one of the completed mossie gear done I'll be able to play around with that, maybe springs on both sides?

Dear SplinterZ25:

The PIPE Here...that's an AMAZING process of creating a P-38M from scratch, even with the scratchbuilt landing gear and everything !!

As I had seen you chose to get a pair of the latest OS FS-95 four stroke mills to power your P-38 with back at post #498 in this thread (they're supposed to be really nice "mills", too!), I was wondering...had you ever thought about mirroring the counter-rotating Allisons used for the full-scale aircraft in any way on your model?

There IS a similary-sized British four stroke mill - the Laser 100 single-jug four-stroker - that could be used for such an idea, without ANY extra parts needed, as it's got separate camshafts for the intake and exhaust valves, just like Enya's single jug four strokers have - and BOTH lines of mills can have their direction of rotation REVERSED for the single-cylinder models, with no other parts needed, simply from re-timing the individual camshafts to get the left-side mill going the opposite direction, as in the full-scale P-38 aircraft. I've included a web graphic from the past that showed how the re-timing is done for the larger Enya single-jug four strokers at the bottom of this reply, for reference purposes.

Please remember, that I'm only mentioning it IF it isn't "too late" to think about doing it, that's all...it's just something I WOULD be doing myself, for a quarter-scale Flair Tiger Moth kit I'd like to get someday, as ITS inverted-inline four stroke deHavilland Gipsy mill in full scale DOES rotate clockwise as seen from "nose-on"...it would be Bill King's full-scale Tiggie at Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome that I'd be choosing to do, and the choice of a Laser 180 single-jug mill for that Tiggie kit is simply TOO appealing to pass on for future considerations.

Just as an advisory, though, the static Browning 50-caliber MG kits you used for your P-38 back at post no.190 are actually the Heavy Barrel (M2HB) models, only used for GROUND applications, even to this day atop M1 Abrams tanks' turrets as one example. The P-38, like every other American WW II aircraft that used the 50-cal Browning MG for its armament, actually used the "light barrel" AN/M2 aviation versions of the Browning 50-cal MG, as a VERY authoritative website on them at http://browningmgs.com/AirGunnery/01_50cal.htm shows...please get a REAL good look at that site when you've got the time, as I don't know of another website anywhere that's anywhere near as good on documenting the entire lineup of US-made Browning MGs, both the smaller .30 cal versions, and the .50 cal version from the World War II era. It's likely that the only visible difference would be in the barrel length, with no heavy "cooling collar" just forward of the gun's main receiver body, as the M2HBs use...only the shorter barrel on the AN/M2s in the photos from the linked site in this paragraph would be needed for reference in crafting them.

Just to close, here at RCGroups I've been eagerly watching an RC Scale enthusiast from Finland who's currently scratchbuilding a Ju 88D twin-engined recon aircraft in 1/10th scale, for powering with a pair of Saito FA-40a four stroke mills...he's coming along GREAT with that one as well, and just about as high-quality as yours is turning out to be.

Hope you can get a chance to check out some of those links, and also check out that Ju 88D thread...

Yours Sincerely,

The PIPE....!!