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Old Jul 11, 2011, 09:08 AM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Champaign, IL
Joined Dec 2009
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One of the guys I work with has converted his Great Planes Curtiss P6-E Hawk to EP as well. Using the same system as you Staggerflyer. He was also considering a Master Airscrew 15 x 7. I don't know if he posts on RC Groups. I'll encourge him to do so.

Tim
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Old Jul 11, 2011, 03:00 PM
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Chilliwack, BC Canada
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Originally Posted by Staggerflyer View Post
Beautiful! I love the sound of those large props and motors large enough that they don't ring with the power pulses from the ESC. Would not have known from that first video that you were so busy fighting those aileron and elevator trim problems. I just thought the camera was jumping. Thank you for leading the way. Hopefully next year I can follow.

Gord
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Old Jul 11, 2011, 08:19 PM
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Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
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@KRProton Tim, what system your coworker using in his GP P-6E? The E-Flite 110, or the Rimfire 120? Somehow a Master Airscrew 15x7 seems to small, especially if it's 2 blade. That thing will need lot's of RPM, and will still be marginal, I would think. The MAS 16x10x3 flew it well but it needed about 3/4 throttle, and 9-10 cells, as opposed to the 1/2 throttle and 8 cells I fly it on now with the 18x10x3 Metzjler prop. The Rimfire 120 would be better with an 18x6 and 5 cells. I could be wrong, tho'. Won't know till it's tried, just going by my experience with mine.

@Gordks Gord, thanks. Yeh, some of the jumping is the camera, lol, (older Sony Steadyshot, hah!) But the rest of it was me, lol. Once it was trimmed, tho' it flies well. Mentioned earlier I found a bent N strut bracket on one. Once that was bent properly, I was able to take half the offset trim out. Still a little more to find and fix. The up elevator trim is definitely because it is nose heavy at the recommended mid point/starting cg. It will not spin or snap, in either direction, even with more than the recommended throws on elev and rudder.
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Old Jul 11, 2011, 08:38 PM
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Tama, Iowa USA
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Well, stick a fork in it and call it done. I still need to add one more magnet to the hatch closure, and try moving cg back some, and get an 18x6 prop, but otherwise, here it is. Two flights Sunday, tried some spins and snaps, would not break, or stall the wing. That means it is definitely nose heavy, at the recommended starting cg point. I am going to have to add weight to the tail, since I have no moveable weight in the plane.
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Old Aug 18, 2011, 12:12 AM
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Lier, Norway
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What is the cowlings inside diameter?


Thanks,
Alf
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Old Aug 18, 2011, 05:52 AM
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Tama, Iowa USA
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What is the cowlings inside diameter?


Thanks,
Alf
8.25" inside diameter
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Old Aug 18, 2011, 06:02 AM
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Tama, Iowa USA
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Because of work not giving any time to work on models during the week, I've been in the workshop during the weekends, instead of flying, so have missed a couple great flying days lately. Trying to finish up my GP Ryan STA-M conversion before Labor Day Weekend for our annual Veterans' Home show.

I did finally get to try an 18x6 prop. Zinger wood. Much better performance. This is not a fast airplane, so doesn't need a high pitch prop. The 18x6 pulls much better in the vertical, which is where the 18x8 was lacking. Things are cooler when done, also.

Still need to try moving CG back a bit, spins and snaps just do not happen, even with an extra 1/4" movement in rudder and elavator.
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 01:42 AM
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Lier, Norway
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You are still on Rimfire 120 and 5S setup?

Whats your average flighttime ?
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 06:01 AM
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Tama, Iowa USA
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You are still on Rimfire 120 and 5S setup?

Whats your average flighttime ?
Yes, have no intention of changing it.

I have my timer set to 5 1/2 minutes. Batteries test at 26-28% when done. I have two packs per plane that I take to field, two or more planes, so rarely do full recharge. I usually just return them to storage charge when I get home, then top them off before leaving for field. All my batteries are the Blue Lipo brand 5000mah 20C packs, except for the packs in the Staggerwing, which are Impulse brand 4800mah 20C packs.
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 01:38 PM
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Lier, Norway
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Hi,

I wonder if it will work out to have the topwing detacheable?
Have to outer parts removable and the centersection mounted all the time with just the wingjoiner glued in the outer panel.

I do have to make some quick connection so the outer panels don`t leave the centersection inflight....

And I do plan to have the lowerwing in one piece.

Any thoughts?
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 05:10 PM
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Tama, Iowa USA
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Originally Posted by affas View Post
Hi,

I wonder if it will work out to have the topwing detacheable?
Have to outer parts removable and the centersection mounted all the time with just the wingjoiner glued in the outer panel.

I do have to make some quick connection so the outer panels don`t leave the centersection inflight....

And I do plan to have the lowerwing in one piece.

Any thoughts?
Figuring some way of running a locking screw into the joiner mounts might work. The N struts out on the wings do help hold things together. Beyond my engineering skills.
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Old Aug 20, 2011, 04:08 AM
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Lier, Norway
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I will make smart an quick connection and post the pictures here. etter to leave the centersection on at all times :-)
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Old Aug 20, 2011, 12:36 PM
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Lier, Norway
Joined Nov 2003
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I am not sure to go electric or glow yet. How will a 1400g glowengine make my CG compeared to the electric setup?


Thanks,
Alf
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Old Aug 20, 2011, 01:01 PM
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Tama, Iowa USA
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I am not sure to go electric or glow yet. How will a 1400g glowengine make my CG compeared to the electric setup?


Thanks,
Alf
Unknown.

The kit was designed for glow/gas. It did not have any instructions for electric conversion, so...
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Old Aug 20, 2011, 01:28 PM
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Lier, Norway
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I know it is not made for electric, just wondered how much weight you have upfront and if the 1400g glow weight be t much.

its designed for 90-120 but I would like a Laser 240V twin or a Saito 200 radial for scale appearance if i don`t go electric.


It is a nice scalebird so I think it deserves a good 4 stroke, but electric is just that easy....
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