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Old Jun 15, 2011, 07:32 AM
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Build Log
NitroPlanes Airfield T-28 - Build Summary

So a couple of weeks ago I was sold on a new Airfield model available through NitroPlanes.com - a T-28 Trojan, Silver "USAF" paint scheme. This model is the same as the "FMS" version, Airfield is really re-branded "FMS" made specifically for NitroPlanes. I decided to go for the "kit-only" version as I had a lot of 9g analog and 17g digital servos on-hand from HobbyKing, as well as a nice 400Kv 50mm x 55mm motor, brand new sitting in a box that was begging to be used to drive a ~0.40 sized scale model.

Here is the product link for the kit-only version of the (silver) T-28:

http://www.nitroplanes.com/93a328-14...ilver-kit.html

This particular airframe caught my eye for a couple of reasons: (A) It's size (1400mm/55" wing span) as well as sharp scale appearance, and (B) the kit-only version included the E-Retracts and LED's built-into the fuse, so I didn't have to worry about having to buy these items separately. Additionally, I bailed out of Nitro-gas powered planes this year, selling off the last Nitro-powered plane that I owned about a month ago (a P-51D Mustang), so I wanted another larger-sized warbird to replace the P-51D. I also happen to own a couple of dozen 3S 2200-2600mAh LiPo's, and using that 5055 400Kv motor, I had a good potential airframe for 6S, which allows me to Y-harness those 3S packs in series, I'm all about standardizing where possible.

Here is an overview of the electronics I used (which I already had on-hand in my parts stash) to build this T-28:
Motor: EMP 5055 400Kv brushless outrunner from OKHobby
Prop: Master Airscrew 14x7" 3-blade prop
ESC: Castle Phoenix 60A (non-ICE version)
UBEC: Turnigy 3A-5A switching UBEC from HobbyKing
Servos: 12 required! I used 6 D-MG16 Mini Digitals: 2 for wing flaps, 2 for ailerons, 1 for rudder, 1 for elevator. For the non-control surfaces (gear door hatches and cowl flaps), I used HXT900 9g analogs, which are quite reliable and a great bargain at less than $3 each from HobbyKing. 2 for left/right landing gear door hatches, 2 for the cowl flaps, 1 for steering the nose wheel (same direction as rudder), and 1 for the front gear door hatch.
Rx: Spektrum AR6100E
Additional parts needed: 2 reversing Y-harnesses for the cowl flaps and left/right landing gear doors. However, you can get around the need for a reversed Y-harness by mounting the servo's in the opposite orientation, but I used the stock mounts provided, therefore requiring reversing Y-harnesses ($8 each at my LHS). I also used some Dubro mini-EZ links to replace z-bend control rods in areas where the actual Z-bend would bind, EZ-links are a better alternative in that case.
Rather than type an essay about the build, I shot some video where I discussed the build summary while filming the plane in action inside the hangar:

NitroPlanes Airfield T-28 1400mm Build Overview - Kit Only version (9 min 27 sec)
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Last edited by ChrisWNY; Jun 15, 2011 at 07:38 AM.
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Old Jun 15, 2011, 07:36 AM
Gone Flying.
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Airfield T-28 from NitroPlanes - Maiden Flight Video

Whenever you post a build log of some sort, people want to see the maiden flight video, so here it is:

Airfield T-28 1400mm Maiden Flight (2 min 55 sec)


What a great-flying airframe, it flies as light as well as smoothly/easily as the PZ T-28, it's a gentle flier even on 6S with 1100-1200W or so going through the motor on a 6S LiPo pack. A definite winner for an airframe, the AF T-28 is surely the "fanciest" most scale plane that I have in the hangar at this point.
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Old Jun 15, 2011, 09:29 AM
No Hangar Queens!
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Congrats! Looks like a lot of fun!
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Old Jun 25, 2011, 08:57 AM
Gone Flying.
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T-28 after 2 coats of Minwax Polycrylic Clear Gloss

This isn't the first time I've used Minwax Polycrylic Clear Gloss (water-based) to add a nice shiny finish to a foam airplane, I have used it many times to really enhance the appearance and bring out the colors of EPO/EPS/Elapor airframes. Since this finish is water-based, it won't harm foam and clean-up is easy, just use water. I brushed on 2 coats, allowing for a full day of dry time between the coats. Polycrylic hardens over time and will actually protect the paint basecoat from minor scratches and abrasions.

The T-28 has such a nice paint job that it was a no-brainer to brush on some water-based Polycrylic to further enhance those colors. I snapped a bunch of photos, the shiny finish adds to the T-28's sharp scale appearance.
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Last edited by ChrisWNY; Jun 25, 2011 at 09:05 AM.
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 11:48 PM
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Does the clear coat increase the weight at all?
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Old Jul 05, 2011, 06:53 AM
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Whatever weight it adds is negligible (not noticeable whatsoever), I would estimate perhaps 1/2-1 oz. of weight added, if that.
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Old Jul 05, 2011, 02:27 PM
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Ok cool.
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Old Jul 25, 2011, 07:27 AM
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Hey chris
would the stock FMS/airfield prop adapter bolt on that motor?
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Old Jul 25, 2011, 08:06 AM
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celm - not without some modification. The stock prop was designed to bolt onto a smaller prop shaft. The other drawback of using the stock prop is that a 13x9" prop may spin a bit too fast on a 400Kv motor running on 6S. The Master Airscrew 3-blade 14x7" and 14x9" fit the 8mm motor shaft like a glove.
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