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Old May 01, 2012, 12:10 PM
Team WarpSquad
Daryoon's Avatar
San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
6,117 Posts
Sounds like a bad tail transistor. A like to the correct one was posted a few pages back. Replace that and you'll fix your problem. Hope you can solder.

Good luck.
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Old May 01, 2012, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tamron View Post
I may try shortening the swash arms today, I'll have to hunt around for that post as I can't recall if it was better to re-glue them to the top or bottom.

Next time I go out I'll try your pulling out of the dive move. I'm sure it'll be as heart stopping as the diving flip
I've glued two swashes to the bottom of the stubs (not flipping the arms over or anything) with good luck, nothing has broken for many flights, I'm only running mcx2 14mm ball spacing though and stock flybar. I like MSR flybar on stock heli but with the mods and stock controller I can't recover especially in wind. With stock flybar when I get in trouble I can recover usually by just centering right stick and throttling up, sometimes opposite stick is required. But when a heli is so out of control in a fast multiple axis spin, opposite stick is nearly impossible.

I just cut the lower part of arm right in half, maybe favoring the stub to be a little longer (approx. 3 mm each). Then use leatherman file to take rib off the arm portion until it is completely smooth and black plastic has a little white, roughed up appearance. Then I just use Walmart superglue (purple stuff with brush can't remember brand) and put on plenty of glue then hold arm to bottom of stub. Takes a little while to set up, then I put a little more glue around the edges. Wait maybe 10-15 min. and good to snap back on. Will require slight trim adjustments, but not really a whole lot. Probably allow a little longer cure before getting too rough with crashes, etc. My son's don't have that mod yet but will, I haven't seen any reason not to do it, after having many flights on other two with it. It will be twitchy with your 16mm ball spacing to get used to, but I can adjust electric trim more back and still fly pretty good inside.

My son did fwd flip before me, I was always thinking backflip, never occured to try forward. Later that night somebody kind of dared me to try it at night, pure luck I pulled that off (roughly 20 feet from me when it came down), all I could see up high was the little red light and couldn't tell which way I was even facing.

The dive is OK, especially first time when it almost noses over it seems against physics that it can pull out. The flip is still maybe cooler, less control though but that makes it fun. I suppose if you get good at it you can more accurately judge height and dist. away to make them fairly consistent on placement, but I think the flip itself will always be a little inconsistent.

Next time I get to park I'll try to remember my better camera and get son to fly and see if I can zoom in and get better video than we did before. Pretty tough to do though.
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Old May 01, 2012, 01:20 PM
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I haven't gone high enough yet to complete the flip, but I do dive it and pull out at about 3'. Probably the 9958's most impressive maneuver!
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Old May 01, 2012, 01:22 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
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Joined Dec 2011
4,659 Posts
Does anyone know how to tell the 9958 main motor from a v911? I got one of each from myrcmart.com recently to have spares in case I needed them (I hate waiting for shipping...) but they don't include labels on their parts (reduce shipping costs?) and so I have no idea which one is which... Does it matter?
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Old May 01, 2012, 01:51 PM
What Do You Drive?
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United States, PA, Folsom
Joined Jan 2012
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Hat Cam

Attached are 3 photos indicating how I mount a camera to a baseball cap. It requires purchasing a mini-tripod from Ebay or equal and extracting the camera screw mount.

The key is to tilt the hat for best video framing.

Editing is done with Windows Live Movie Maker or equal.
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Old May 01, 2012, 02:07 PM
Team WarpSquad
Daryoon's Avatar
San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
6,117 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post
Does anyone know how to tell the 9958 main motor from a v911? I got one of each from myrcmart.com recently to have spares in case I needed them (I hate waiting for shipping...) but they don't include labels on their parts (reduce shipping costs?) and so I have no idea which one is which... Does it matter?
9958 has 8teeth

v911 has 7teeth
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Old May 01, 2012, 02:21 PM
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Canada, ON, Barrie
Joined Jan 2009
179 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post
Does anyone know how to tell the 9958 main motor from a v911? I got one of each from myrcmart.com recently to have spares in case I needed them (I hate waiting for shipping...) but they don't include labels on their parts (reduce shipping costs?) and so I have no idea which one is which... Does it matter?
I think you can tell by counting the teeth on the gear. 9958 has 1 more than the 911. I think I read that somewhere.

Edit: I'm to slow lol
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Old May 01, 2012, 02:25 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
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Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
9958 has 8teeth

v911 has 7teeth
Thank you, Sifu!




What would happen if I ran the v911 motor in the 9958 and vice versa?
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Old May 01, 2012, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post
Thank you, Sifu!




What would happen if I ran the v911 motor in the 9958 and vice versa?
Using the 911 motor would give you better pickup but less top end. The blades would spin slower if the rpm's are the same.
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Old May 01, 2012, 02:37 PM
Team WarpSquad
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San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
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LOL. That animation makes me laugh.

If you ran different teeth than stock, you change the gear ratio and thus the headspeed.

We had a discussion about this on the v911 thread just last week.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=6758

You also have to think about gear mesh too. From what I understand, putting the 9958 motor in the v911 works fine. Higher head speed and I have seen people reported it's not as loud.

The higher head speed should make it better to fight wind. You should lose some punchiness by increasing the teeth by one, but I don't think that's detrimental to the v911/Solo Pro.

For the 9958 since we're on that thread, I think you should stick with the 8teeth pinion.

I think a Bravo SX motor with 8teeth pinion would be best.
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Old May 01, 2012, 02:38 PM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
erdnuckel2's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post
Thank you, Sifu!




What would happen if I ran the v911 motor in the 9958 and vice versa?
You gonna loose headspeed on the 9958 and gain headspeed on the V911.
Consequently, you should loose torque on the V911 and gain torque on the 9958.

What would happen? I would expect the V911 to get more agile, while the 9958 might get troubles in keeping up with its usual self ...
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Old May 01, 2012, 03:02 PM
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Canada, ON, Barrie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpconard View Post
I've glued two swashes to the bottom of the stubs (not flipping the arms over or anything) with good luck, nothing has broken for many flights, I'm only running mcx2 14mm ball spacing though and stock flybar. I like MSR flybar on stock heli but with the mods and stock controller I can't recover especially in wind. With stock flybar when I get in trouble I can recover usually by just centering right stick and throttling up, sometimes opposite stick is required. But when a heli is so out of control in a fast multiple axis spin, opposite stick is nearly impossible.

I just cut the lower part of arm right in half, maybe favoring the stub to be a little longer (approx. 3 mm each). Then use leatherman file to take rib off the arm portion until it is completely smooth and black plastic has a little white, roughed up appearance. Then I just use Walmart superglue (purple stuff with brush can't remember brand) and put on plenty of glue then hold arm to bottom of stub. Takes a little while to set up, then I put a little more glue around the edges. Wait maybe 10-15 min. and good to snap back on. Will require slight trim adjustments, but not really a whole lot. Probably allow a little longer cure before getting too rough with crashes, etc. My son's don't have that mod yet but will, I haven't seen any reason not to do it, after having many flights on other two with it. It will be twitchy with your 16mm ball spacing to get used to, but I can adjust electric trim more back and still fly pretty good inside.
Thanks jp. Thats just the info I was after And I agree about the multiple axis spins. Those can be killers if your to low.

I was out diving and flipping again today and found I can do it really quick without much loss in hight. So...wanting the spectacular, I just gave it 3/4 thro. and now I'm getting these really looong hair raising dives before it noses under Looks fantastic!!! LOL.

@ Pancari
nice job! Thanks for those pics. I'm going to try that with the wifes camera tomorrow! Would be nice to see more vids of everyone working this heli I think!!
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Old May 01, 2012, 03:09 PM
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United States, MO, St Louis
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
Sounds like a bad tail transistor. A like to the correct one was posted a few pages back. Replace that and you'll fix your problem. Hope you can solder.

Good luck.
FOR SALE BY OWNER

Slightly used Xeida 9958 available. This helicopter has been a big hit everywhere it has been flown. It has a tail motor that just won't quit. Make offer.
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Old May 01, 2012, 03:17 PM
Team WarpSquad
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San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
6,117 Posts
Well, once of these days if that 9958 ever makes it to San Diego. We can patch her up and get her posing for a photo op or two.
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Old May 01, 2012, 08:34 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
Joined Dec 2011
4,659 Posts
After hearing all this talk about issues with trying to solder in wires for the tail motors and such (e.g. doing a Bravo SX tail swap), would it make sense to solder a socket onto the 9958 mainboard so that the plug of whatever heli's motor we're using can be more easily installed? If so, does anybody know what sort of plug size would be appropriate?
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