[QUOTE=LuvEvolution7;23285487]what brand of F-16 is that, hanging up in the background? the F104 is starting to look very nice. you are doing a wonderful job with it.

Rich[/QUOTE

Thanks

The F-16 is the BVM, with it's scale gear/doors/brakes and stuff. I converted it to a DynEmax/scopion 630kv on 12s. It will ultimately be powered by my Wren 54 MKII. It has not flown much.

It also has functional LE flaps. Since the LE/TE flaps work well and are not a big deal to set up, I am going to put LE/TE flaps on the 104 as well. I figure the 104 will need it since I have not really enlarged the wing.

Steve

wow!!!!

Will not be posting much till Nov. 23rd.

Steve

Posted for fellow modeler due to me not knowing how to post pic in PM section.

BVM F-16 drop tank.

Will be one piece.

Steve

Have fun in SF

Thanks Steve! Nick

Great stuff there Steve! Looks like your ready to make a final push towards making the molds.

Keep at er

Steve,
If you haven't seen it yet, the long awaited F104 book from Danny Coremans has finally been released. Just got my copy and its great (so are the others in the 'uncovering' series).
http://ultra.glo.be/daco/
You may find it helpful as you detail your model.
Sean

Just got back from little family vacation. FYI, San Francisco has it's own exchange rate for the American dollar. WOW, expensive.
SS
I love good books on a subject........But
Thanks for the link,. I am going to make it "impressive scale" with the dominant scale details.

I am lucky to have the Chino Air museum around 30 min from me. They have a pretty nice 104 there. The rest of the details will be functioning air brakes, functioning tail feathers, and LE AND TE flaps. And scale urethane resin hubs.

Easy to say, but let;s see.

Steve

A few more alum panels on the top of fuse. The outline of most of the gun door. Gun door will be an alum panel. Need to make gun fairing also.

Slow going, but going.

Happy Thanksgiving to all.

Steve

Nice Steve..the intake really makes it look good

Need some vents. I have a Yellow F-16 hanging. So, I waxed/PVA'd the vents and applied bondo to the vents on the fuse. This will give me a cheap mold to make my 104 vents for the bottom at the rear of the nose gear doors. The tape is to help lift the bondo.

Let's see what happens.

You can see the benefits in this process.

I was going to mold the gun port also, but it's way to short. Although, I can elongate it. Or make one out of clay. ??

Steve

great idea. simpler and easier than making your own from scratch.

So this is what I did with the vents. Cut them apart to look the like the rear fuse vents. The vents have a very thin mylar sheet over them to create the panel section.

I may remove it and use alum tape due to the mylar being a bit thicker than I want.

For some reason I thought putting black marker on the vents would help make them easier to see. Just makes the vents look crappy even though the urethane casting is perfect.

Can't use the big vents anywhere on this model.

Steve

A bit more work. A few hours invested.

Switched the mylar vent cover to alum because mylar was too thick

On my lathe, I turned an alder wood (small grain) dowel into the shape of the gun fairing and cut it in half (have extra in case). Hand shaped to look right. Could have used a material plastic to avoid having to seal it for a good finish. Oh well, it's what I had.

Was going to pull a quick bondo mold off my BVM F-16's gun, but it was too small.

I may make a mold of my gun and use a urethane resin casting of it or a glass version. Depends on how much fuse cutting is needed at the forward recessed section of the gun.

Once the fuse mold is made, I can always lay up the gun section for other models also. The benefits of molds.

Steve