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Old Apr 04, 2012, 12:55 PM
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As shown above, the intake spike plug is a clay tapered cone turned on my lathe. The usable spike itself is a "1/2" cone. To get the 1/2 cone, I have parted the plug on it's center line, creating two exact same 1/2s'. This avoids having to cut the clay spike plug in any way.

A quick bondo mold to get the glass spike part out of, and then to fit and finish to the intake duct section adjacent to the fuse/forward intake..

Again, at this point all ployester resin used for it's speed and cost. These are after all not the permanent molds.

Note: In about one-two years, these polyester molds will shrink by around 10-15% of the original size.
About and hour invested from turning clay to shape and getting to this point.
That's fast. Clay!

Yes, I know the mold looks sloppy. But hang on.

Steve
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 10:25 AM
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Quick update of the temporary bondo mold off clay spike plug.

Apparently, if I use a new, solid clay "billet" piece, (oppose to adding clay in spots) the clay plug will not take much damage other than loss of around .25mm of surface loss. shape remains perfect aside from the thin small tip that broke off.

Spike glass parts next.

steve
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Old Apr 06, 2012, 08:16 PM
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Rough mocked up the intake and spike. To my eye it looks close enough to start to match up to the fuse, position the intake, fabricate the boundary layer and fabricate the back of the intake with the forward angled "LE"

Steve
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 08:19 AM
"Take Off" eh!
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Alllmost there... Looking good.

Trev
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 10:06 PM
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The intakes with the forward sweep boundary layer LE.

I did look at the Avonds to see if it has the forward sweep, but can't tell from the pics.

I need to have this subtle detail.

Steve
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 11:44 PM
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lookin good...need to spray more black so it shows up better..ha that is the last thing you need to worry about for now
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Old Apr 13, 2012, 08:50 AM
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I was thinking the same thing, but as you said......


Steve
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Old Apr 13, 2012, 10:23 AM
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A quick pic of how we get glass/epoxy sheets. Thickness, weight and composite is your choice. Shown is aprox 3.5 oz x 2, crow foot weave. It yields a pin hole free finish. You can use polyester also, but not as flexible if too fast cure.

This can be used for ducting, sheeting in place of balsa, or what ever you can make it work for. My configuration is flexible, but will hold it shape.

Cheap. Very simple

Use your scrap moncote, (or mylar) ironed on to a board. I wax the monocote, (not a must) then lay up the composite, and peel off film.

Hard composite plates can be made with this method if clamped between two flat rigid plates. I have not done that yet, but it will work.

This material will be used to make the back of the scale intake duct at the boundary layer.

Steve
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 03:33 AM
flyga ho ho sjunga ho ho!
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Italia, Toscana, Bagno a Ripoli
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Wow great job!!.. a question but you have an idea of ​​what the size of F-104 wings and rudders of the cord root and tip for 1/10 scale? ... i'm working to the CAD , and what I have available is only the total length of both, but not the length of the rope.
can you help me???
Scalecraft I follow you at wheel
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 10:23 AM
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I will check again. But I remember something like 4 inches at the root and around 1.25" at the tip. The V-stab, I just made as thin as possible for rc, with sharp LE, but thick enough to support the T-tail configuration

My first wing will be a rc type airfoil. After I get throws and CG, I will work on a thin wing with LE and TE flaps.

Steve
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 03:41 PM
flyga ho ho sjunga ho ho!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCALECRAFT View Post
I will check again. But I remember something like 4 inches at the root and around 1.25" at the tip. The V-stab, I just made as thin as possible for rc, with sharp LE, but thick enough to support the T-tail configuration

My first wing will be a rc type airfoil. After I get throws and CG, I will work on a thin wing with LE and TE flaps.

Steve
if i can help you look this 3D ( http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1443763 ) i think with can help you.
an question Steve for the 1/10 scale the elevator how as long at root and tip.
because if i find the measure i can start with this and after with the wings.
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Old May 11, 2012, 12:32 PM
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After a break from looking at it and doing nothing. I decided to paint it gloss black at the suggestion of my buddy Scott to show the defects in the fuse. At first I was not looking forward to see all the" waves" in the surface, but no as bad as I thought.

Still looking to get the intake spike like scale. The spike is centered in the intake.

The spike also has a cool boundary layer that tapers wider as it goes back.

This is were I am slowed down.

Steve
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Old May 11, 2012, 10:34 PM
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Looks good, keep the push on...

Wolf
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Old May 11, 2012, 10:56 PM
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Comming along good !!
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Old May 12, 2012, 06:07 AM
Dream Build Fly Scale
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Philadelphia, PA
Joined Oct 2004
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Looking good! What is your inlet area with the shock cones installed? Are you going to have a radiused inlet lip? Mine doesn't have much of one.
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