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Old Jan 26, 2012, 03:18 PM
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Hot stuff Steve!

If you're starting a list of who may be interested in a kit, count me in :-)

Paul
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 04:26 PM
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Thanks Tempest.

Maybe

Let's see what this thing flies like. Then I may consider offering it.

It's just a hobby for us.

Steve
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCALECRAFT View Post
So I finally decided on a wing airfoil. The idea is to have a scale size wing, an airfoil that will allow for good speed and be forgiving at landing. And not look like a trainer wing, but more a F-104 wing. The ruler shows around 13.5"

Bearing in mind that it has a large wing tank at the end of it.

The foam wing will not have the LE flap just the TE flap.

If this wing proves to do a good job, it will be wing I make hollow composite wing with. The LE flap will be on the composite wing.

Excuse the mess. It's how i work.

Steve
The photo shows how PAvonds did his wings. Very similar to yours. The wing has the slightest curve on the bottom and a definitive airfoil shape with the leading edges being rounded.

Great Job so far
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 08:45 PM
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Looks pretty much like the same idea. The only difference is that these are test wings. if they work, they will become the plug for composite wings.

I also noticed on the real 104 wing, since the wing (and Vstab/rudder) is so thin, the hinge is only on one side of the wing. A live hinge will be pretty scale for a composite wing on this model. That will eliminates the need for hinges.

Are the wing tanks attached to the tip rib flush, or do they slide over the wing a bit, like a "pocket"??. I think that's what I saw on Striclyscales PA 104.

On composite wing tanks, I want make it so i can replace them easily. Making them 3 piece so when I ding those I can just replace the tip, mid section, or tail section. Plus the LE flap servo will be in the wing tank on the composite wing. Need access.
Unless that gets too heavy.


Steve
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 09:44 PM
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The Tip Tanks slide over the wing. There held on with two small hex screws. Others have mentioned that they should have alignment pins installed because finding the screw holes can be troublesome.
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 11:23 PM
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Got it.

Thanks
Steve
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 12:44 PM
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I have a bit of a set back. Although most would not be able to tell once the wing fairing is added, it still bugged me. It's a plug after all.

The intake has a taper as it heads towards the TE of the wing. Mine is somewhat constant. Note the pic of the Chino Museums F-104, taper and fairing.

Here is the start of the correction. Not as bad as I thought.

Steve
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 02:38 PM
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I think thats goning to work!..looks good from here...
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 03:36 PM
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Scott, you need to see it in person.

Steve
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 06:35 PM
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Hi All

By mistake I posted the latest pics on the other form I am not keeping current on this sublject.

So heres what did.

My wing tanks were taking damage. So, I fixed it and decided to mold now.

Basic molding style.

MDF shelf cut to sink plug into 1/2 way, bondo in gaps, keyways installed, tinted epoxy resin surface coat thickened with cabosil.

Next. Few layers of glass, pop off MDF and mold other side.

All waxed and pva'ed of course

Steve
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 09:20 PM
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quite a coincidence... I just did the exact same thing tonight..lol I have two Tip tanks already, but I needed two wing tanks aswell. Ill be fabing a Nuclear bomb later.

Here's what Im replicating..http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.co...chulze/00.shtm

Trev
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 12:14 AM
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Good view for reference. For the P Avons one, right??

Steve
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 01:44 PM
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It's a bit cold here today, 63. For epoxy that's cold. Hence the little heater and lid off one of the arfs I have to make a temporary hot box.

A pic of the glass layers on the surface coat.

Basically, 5 layers of 4oz "e" plain weave, I think volan coated.

We normally don't use this top quality glass for reinforcement (only for parts) for the mold but, but it was all I had laying around here.

The reason for using 5 layers of this glass, is due to the shape of the mold itself.

It provides a tremendous amount of support geometrically. I guess that would be the way to say it.

Normally, on our large fuse or wing molds, we cap them off with a 20oz final layer. I have a large roll of bias configured 20oz glass. Gotta use it somewhere.

Steve
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 01:50 PM
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Cool! Work is done after this week so on to the arado
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCALECRAFT View Post
Good view for reference. For the P Avons one, right??

Steve
Yes Sir
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