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Old Aug 31, 2011, 08:30 AM
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Hi pmullen

Thank you for this great build thread :-) I have really enjoyed your very informative tutorials in "Fuselage baking", wing building using the Laser method and now mould making using silicone caulk and corn starch.
I´m itching to try the Laser method and silicone mould making, but at the moment I´m "in between workshops" so building is kind of slow.

Your Do-335 is looking very close to scale, but deserves some more correct RLM colours. I did an Ameisenbär for the Build Off III and used colours from Warbirdcolours and I was very impressed with these paints. Price is reasonable and the quality is top notch.
You can see my Do-335 here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=972083

My Dornier has had its share of bad luck and is right now having most of its front fuselage rebuilt. Hopefully I´ll have it flying again soon.

Keep up the good work and thanks again. I look forward to more progress reports.

- Michael Hammer
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Old Aug 31, 2011, 02:08 PM
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United States, WI, Fond du Lac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelghammer View Post
Hi pmullen

Thank you for this great build thread :-) I have really enjoyed your very informative tutorials in "Fuselage baking", wing building using the Laser method and now mould making using silicone caulk and corn starch.
I´m itching to try the Laser method and silicone mould making, but at the moment I´m "in between workshops" so building is kind of slow.

Your Do-335 is looking very close to scale, but deserves some more correct RLM colours. I did an Ameisenbär for the Build Off III and used colours from Warbirdcolours and I was very impressed with these paints. Price is reasonable and the quality is top notch.
You can see my Do-335 here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=972083

My Dornier has had its share of bad luck and is right now having most of its front fuselage rebuilt. Hopefully I´ll have it flying again soon.

Keep up the good work and thanks again. I look forward to more progress reports.

- Michael Hammer
Thanks, Don't know how I missed your build but it's pretty impressive. I was wondering how your nose gear held up? Great idea using the stock retract to hold the strut and provide the pivot. The nose gear has been the sticking point for finalizing my plans for the "scale" version of my Do-335.

Speaking of paint, I got the prototype back in the shop for adding details like the pipes, scoops and some fixed gear. I replaced the missing front hatch too. The original paint has been sanded down and I need to find some more correct colors. I never knew there were so many opinions about the "correct" RLM shades. Good thing I did the thread in scratchbuilt foamies and not the scale forum!

Good news is the prototype flies well and is a blast to fly. Now that I got it dialed in I hated to stop flying it to add the details but with about 2 dozen flights on it and no structural issues (the landings in the video I posted are among it's better landings), it's time to finish it.

Pat
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 04:15 PM
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The nose gear is a very prominent feature of the Anteater and important to get right. I've seen nice Do-335 models with the nose gear pointing straight down and it just ruins the overall impression. Better to leave it out like you did with your first Do-335. However it wasn't too difficult to fabricate the 110 degree nose gear retract for my version of the big fighter. And it has worked much better than I had anticipated. Even after two crashes with a smashed nose section the gear is still working perfectly.

The RLM discussion is a very interesting one but quite time consuming. I chose to paint my Pfeil as one of the prototype series which were painted with surplus paint stocks of RLM 70, 71 and 65. If you use paint from Warbirdcolors you just order those RLM numbers.

It's great to hear that you're having a good time flying the prototype. I hope I can get my 335 repaired quickly so I can join the fun. I did a couple of hours of repair work on it today and it is comming along nicely. Your build thread helps my motivation a lot.

Michael Hammer
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by michaelghammer View Post
The nose gear is a very prominent feature of the Anteater and important to get right. I've seen nice Do-335 models with the nose gear pointing straight down and it just ruins the overall impression. Better to leave it out like you did with your first Do-335. However it wasn't too difficult to fabricate the 110 degree nose gear retract for my version of the big fighter. And it has worked much better than I had anticipated. Even after two crashes with a smashed nose section the gear is still working perfectly.
I'm glad to here the nose gear held up well. I'll have to mock one up and start figuring out the arm lengths and see how compact I can make it. I'll drive mine with a servo.

E-flight makes some 105 degree electric units but they are expensive and not well reviewed.

I got some paint coming, just got to get a spray gun.

Pat
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 05:11 PM
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Excellent Do-335 build thread pmullen!
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 04:17 PM
Watt Waster
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Do-335 Build using Shaped FFF

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Originally Posted by demondriver View Post
Excellent Do-335 build thread pmullen!
I want to second that motion! I have always liked this twin engine spy plane of the Germans during WW2 and not long ago I learned two additional methods of shaping FFF into pretty much any aircraft design one might desire. First, excellent plans for scale paper airplanes are available from many sources and I believe FiddersGreen.com is a great source. The card stock plans can be enlarged easy enough at most any copy store, or office supply store with a blue print printer. Once you have the sized/enlarged plans you want, it is just a matter of cutting out the parts, cold rolling as needed, and gluing the parts together. Of course it is necessary to make allowances for RC components and add a bit more foam here and there for air frame strength, but very much like the method you are using, except less prep work is required. The wing or fuselage internal framing is the mold the shaped foam skin is glued to, so a few less steps are required.

Many have agreed it is a good idea to "bake" the FFF in some sort of oven at around 200 degrees F for 20 minutes or so to stiffen the foam. The idea is the foam will become tempered, which is another way of saying a little more hardened. What seems to be happening is the outside of the foam develops a harder surface and the inner cells less flexible to a degree. Lots of folks have used this method to stiffen flat, shaped on a form/jig/mold wings that have a shallow airfoil shape to them after baking. Once the foam is removed from the former, the foam remembers the shape. If the foam is cold rolled first, half the shaping task desired is completed in just a few minutes. I use 3"-5" thick firm foam rubber and a metal pipe, or PVC pipe roller to cold roll thin foam of many types. Not much to the process if you remember to apply soft pressure at first and increase the pressure slightly with each pass. I have cold rolled a number of foam tubes in this fashion I was able to modify into round fuselage shapes easily using scale paper airplane construction methods. I suspect this is the source of many of the methods employed here, which are very effective.
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 05:17 PM
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What about my version?

Hi boys. I am crazy for Do335 too.
I have made one .... maybe not so nice and clean build, but i thik a bit faster
Look here
JABA RC Projectile (2 min 33 sec)
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 06:19 PM
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Hi boys. I am crazy for Do335 too.
I have made one .... maybe not so nice and clean build, but i thik a bit faster
!!!!!!!!

That's certainly faster them mine!
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Old Mar 30, 2014, 04:39 AM
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Dornier Do 335 electric RC Model (1 min 40 sec)
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Old Mar 31, 2014, 08:14 AM
Watt Waster
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Do 335

Sure does look to fly just fine.
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