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Old Aug 25, 2011, 11:01 PM
Avionics tech
52Sabre's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Rapids
Joined Jun 2011
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35mm replacement impellers have shipped from BH. Turnigy 9X radio back in stock at HK.
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Old Aug 28, 2011, 02:30 AM
Alpha Whisky
Queensland - Australia
Joined Jan 2006
282 Posts
Aileron, Elevator linkages

My two R415 Rx`s have arrived and I am currently setting up the F-86 which has been gathering dust under the bench for a while. Rx bound OK but straight away I am in trouble with those curly little control linkages.

One was badly deformed and the long leg broke off when I tried to reform it so it won`t lock in place as is. My first thought is to stick on a blob of epoxy on the end to lock it in place on the horn before sliding it onto the pushrod and gluing the lot together.

I don`t exactly have five thumbs on each hand, but setting up these mickey-mouse looking things looks to be both a hit and miss operation to produce a less than great end result.

Has anyone linked these ailerons and elevators using some different method that works OK?

Also, I bought several 370 2S nano-tech packs for these two models. I will have to do some surgery to get them to fit and that looks to be a one attempt only operation. Has anyone fitted and used these packs. If so, how were they placed and how did the CG work out?

Thanks ,

Alan W
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Old Aug 28, 2011, 03:56 AM
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tylev's Avatar
Finland, Kaarina
Joined Jul 2011
49 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaWhisky View Post
...

Also, I bought several 370 2S nano-tech packs for these two models. I will have to do some surgery to get them to fit and that looks to be a one attempt only operation. Has anyone fitted and used these packs. If so, how were they placed and how did the CG work out?
It is tricky, if you use "Thread Tools" -> "Show Attachments in this Thread" you will see various alternatives.
I flew my F-86 for the first time yesterday (first time ever EDF for me) and CG was OK. My F-86 is quite asymmetrical so I had to do trimming and later adjust the servo arms but overall it flew very nicely. I like this plane a lot. I use a Multiplex RX-5 DR Light M-LINK 2.4ghz receiver from which I have removed the casing. I have the receiver on top of the battery so it is inside the canopy.

I crashed twice on my first flights yesterday. I was trying to fly it in a small area, I didn't know how fast it went and I thought it would turn as sharp as a small park flyer or similar. Therefore the banged up nose. I then drove to a larger field and flew. Fantastic sound and very nice plane. I overcompensated a lot but now I have added exponential to the ailerons.

HTH
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Old Aug 28, 2011, 05:47 AM
Avionics tech
52Sabre's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Rapids
Joined Jun 2011
2,301 Posts
Thank you Tylev. I will use your method for my 430mah 2S pack install. I really enjoy the international camaraderie of this forum. Very refreshing as compared to others I've visited. Feel as though I'm sitting down with friends always as I work on my model.
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Old Aug 28, 2011, 07:57 AM
Canadian Bacon
flypaper 2's Avatar
Kingston, Canada
Joined Jun 2004
13,055 Posts
Alan: Go to post 945 to see the ail. pushrod wires I made for the Sabre. It's 1/32 piano wire so takes some out of the slop out of the loose linkages as well. Hat to enlarge the ail. horn a bit by reaming it out a bit with the wire. I use the trusty Z bends on both ends. To remove or install, take the servo arm off. The V bend is to fine tune the length and also acts like a bit of a shock absorber making it easier on the servo gears.
I test flew the MIG again yesterday and managed to take the deadly death spin out of it. First test flight about a week ago, if you tried to turn it at all, it would spin in. Two things, it acted tail heavy, so I taped two Canadian pennys to the nose, one on each side. I also put differential ails. on it too. Big mistake by doing two changes at once. Flew great with no signs of tipstalling. Next time out I'll take the pennys off, one at a time. I put the differential in by taking off the servo arm and moving it forward by two splines. The servo arm almost touches the wing with full down ail. Of course I had to make longer pushrods for this too. I'll put up a pic of the MIG ail. setup if you like. Hope this helps.

Gord.
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Old Aug 28, 2011, 08:21 AM
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tylev's Avatar
Finland, Kaarina
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 52Sabre View Post
Thank you Tylev. I will use your method for my 430mah 2S pack install. I really enjoy the international camaraderie of this forum. Very refreshing as compared to others I've visited. Feel as though I'm sitting down with friends always as I work on my model.
Agree, it is fab to have such a wealth of information, just ask and get answers. Without a board like this I would never have made it far with rc. So many good advices I have received regarding all kinds of topics.
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Old Aug 28, 2011, 09:53 AM
Canadian Bacon
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Kingston, Canada
Joined Jun 2004
13,055 Posts
Here's how I put in the differential ailerons on the MIG by moving the servo horn. You can see the penny still taped on the nose. Some of you probably had trouble with the warped wings causing problems. You can heat and bend them but I've found they will warp back eventually. You can see on the bottom of the Sabre wing where I slit the wing about 2/3 of the way through, bend the wing where you want it, then fill the slit with hot glue. Had to do it in two places because of the bad warp. You use so little glue it's not a problem as far as weight goes. At first it took almost full right ail. trim to fly straight. Have to do the same with the MIG as it took full trim then I had to add some subtrim. Should add a bit of speed as the up ail. for trim adds a lot of drag.
P.S. Forgot to add. To keep the elevator pushrods on the MIG from bending, I used plastic straw for a guide. About 1/2 in. long I slit it end to end and opened it to fit over the pushrod. It's stiff enough to not open on its own.
Hope this helps.

Gord.
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Last edited by flypaper 2; Aug 28, 2011 at 10:38 AM.
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Old Aug 28, 2011, 10:26 PM
Alpha Whisky
Queensland - Australia
Joined Jan 2006
282 Posts
tylev and Gord,

Thanks for your collective info re pushrods etc. All most helpful. I`ll have a first test-fly attempt with the F-86 without the differential for openers and take it from there.

Alan W
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Old Aug 29, 2011, 12:08 AM
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lipoflyer's Avatar
Australia
Joined Nov 2010
2,876 Posts
Flypaper, when i have had warped epo winss or tail I have sharpend the end of a 1.5mm servo wire and pushed it through the item. Then you just slowly bend the offending part until it gets to the desired shape. For a wing make sure you do the other side for lateral balance.
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Old Aug 29, 2011, 07:53 AM
Canadian Bacon
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Kingston, Canada
Joined Jun 2004
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Great idea. More than one way to skin a cat. Gord.

Gord.
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Old Aug 29, 2011, 08:21 AM
Check your six
martys's Avatar
New Jersey
Joined Sep 2002
1,240 Posts
Straw

Gord thanks for the tip on the straw tube. I have the MIG 15 50mm version (might get the smaller version too!) and I don't like the pushrod setup. Will modify mine before maiden. I am impressed with the ARF. The fan seems to push out quite strongly, servos are already mounted and has a SC too. Not bad for $80.00. BTW, I ordered mine through the USA warehouse. Took about 2 hrs to build (I'm somewhat picky and like to take my time) More to come later. Marty
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Old Aug 29, 2011, 03:55 PM
Avionics tech
52Sabre's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Rapids
Joined Jun 2011
2,301 Posts
elementary question

HK 8/10 and Turnigy plush 6 and 10A ESCs arrived. I'm new at replacing the ESC. I see the motor wires are not colored coded. Could someone please tell me the correct arrangement? And also what connectors are you recommending? 3-pin deans, bullets or direct solder? For the battery and servo, thought I'd just re-use those from the fried stock ESC. thank you.
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Old Aug 29, 2011, 04:31 PM
Canadian Bacon
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Kingston, Canada
Joined Jun 2004
13,055 Posts
Hook the ESC up so it works. If the motor runs backwards, switch any two of the three wires. It's more or less permanent, so I'd hardwire from the motor to ESC. I'd leave the heatshrink unshrunk. Just slide it over the solder joint and test it. If the motor turns in the right direction, then heatshrink it.

Gord.
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Old Aug 29, 2011, 05:03 PM
Avionics tech
52Sabre's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Rapids
Joined Jun 2011
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Thanks. Guess it's time I dug out the little soldering iron out from the pile in the basement. Figured I'd have to do it sooner or later with these EDFs. Any other tips? I've ordered the digital edition of Electric Flight Essentials. Hopefully it's fairly recent and I'll get something out of it.
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Old Aug 29, 2011, 05:44 PM
Canadian Bacon
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Kingston, Canada
Joined Jun 2004
13,055 Posts
Another thing you can do with these low amp motors, is use the regular servo 3 wire connectors for a motor to ESC connection. Use a 6 in. servo extension and cut the ends off leaving some wire to solder to. If the motor runs backward just fip one of the connectors over. Just something to stick in your idea book

Gord.
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