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Old Aug 08, 2011, 11:02 PM
Registered User
Pyrmont, Sydney, Australia
Joined Jun 2000
260 Posts
my install

Some pics of my build:
-pressed the Castle creations P10 esc in the standard location, nice fit
-Used a scalpel to slice the whole floor of the battery bay out. Then UHU'd the AR6300 to the underside of it and cut the end off the piece to let wires through. Glued it back in place. Loads of battery space! The RX is in the intake stream but the x-section widens up at that point at least
-paper tailcone hasn't got too wet, even after crashing into mud

Am happy, but you can see she's eaten a lot of dirt and UHU glue from all the crashes from very out of trim 3S flights!
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 03:06 AM
Avionics tech
52Sabre's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Rapids
Joined Jun 2011
2,293 Posts
What is the steel rod all about? What is the blue in the floor of the cockpit? Underside of rcvr? I like your elevator control rod guides. I'm not sure how to make those. explain. Not familiar with the UHU line of glues. Germany, eh? What is common U.S. equivalent? At $60 (U.S.) a pop that cadillac P-10 ESC better be made out of solid gold > http://www.castlecreations.com/products/phoenix-10.html
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 04:37 AM
Team30 Micro EDF
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Adelaide, Australia
Joined Apr 2004
11,203 Posts
That rx looks like a big wind brake.

Is it just the angle of the photo?
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 06:16 AM
Canadian Bacon
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Kingston, Canada
Joined Jun 2004
12,753 Posts
The UHU line can be bought at Michaels. I use the UHU Pore as a glue/contact cement. The GWS contact glue that comes in the kits works better but harder to get.

Gord.
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 02:47 PM
Avionics tech
52Sabre's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Rapids
Joined Jun 2011
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Some sort of adhesive came in the box with my 64mm Starmax Panther last week. It's in a plain white tube. No markings. Know nothing about it. I'll see if our local Michaels carries the UHU. Must be good stuff you all seem to like it. Is it like a silicone adhesive? Or more like the goodyear pliobond I use to use for model railroad cork roadbed? Maybe I'll get a hot glue gun as well. Their cheap enough. Any particular type of glue I should use with the gun? Otherwise I have been getting along with Blitz 5 minute epoxy and foam safe CA. (the thick stuff along with an activator). Please advise.
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 03:33 PM
Avionics tech
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United States, MI, Grand Rapids
Joined Jun 2011
2,293 Posts
Aligator skin

When I dip the nose of my plane in boiling water the shape comes back. But now the foam cells have apparently expanded giving the surface a very rough "alligator skin" appearance. What do most of you do about that? I thought of some sort of filler coat and then sanding and re-paint or just using a piece of low temp monokote? advise. How often can we dip a smushed nose?
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 04:03 PM
Canadian Bacon
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Kingston, Canada
Joined Jun 2004
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I use hot glue 99% of the time. The regular or high temp stuff. If you do get a glue gun, get the one with the small sticks, 1/4 in I think. The UHU, epoxy etc, I use when there is a lot of coverage, as the hot glue cools to quick for long jobs. UHU works well as a contact cement. The lightweight Spackling compound for drywall works very well as a filler. When you lift the tub, you'd swear there was nothing in it, it's that light. Hope this helps

Gord.
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 04:56 PM
Avionics tech
52Sabre's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Rapids
Joined Jun 2011
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Yes sir! That it does. Now what sort of paint are most folks using for touch ups? In my opinion Testors plastic model paint is too heavy. And so I would think automotive paints. We use to use something called butyrate or nitrate dope back in (as my grand daughter calls it) black and white days. But that would probably eat up the foam instantly. I suppose there is a modern lightweight spray color that's specifically designed for foamies? Fluorescent (not "neon") orange or yellow on the underside of our little mosquitoes would sure help some of us "older" pilots.
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 05:13 PM
Canadian Bacon
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Kingston, Canada
Joined Jun 2004
12,753 Posts
I do use the Testors and Tamiya paints. They are relatively light compared to other paints. Lots of pigment so you can use light coats. I seldom use more than one unless it's on a darker undersurface. But you knew that. If you want the aluminum colour that's on the Mig and Sabre, ask for CHROME not aluminum. Looks more like real the real stuff.

Gord.
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 05:15 PM
Team30 Micro EDF
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Adelaide, Australia
Joined Apr 2004
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Sabre,
hot water - not boiling - to avoid the alligator skin result. It's expanding more than when it was made in the plug when its so hot.
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 05:22 PM
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52Sabre's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Rapids
Joined Jun 2011
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Oh ok. So basically hot tap water should do it? Is there a certain temperature range? Should I use a candy thermometer in my pan of hot water?
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 06:48 PM
Team30 Micro EDF
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Stellenbosch, South Africa
Joined Apr 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 52Sabre View Post
Oh ok. So basically hot tap water should do it? Is there a certain temperature range? Should I use a candy thermometer in my pan of hot water?
Tap water is not hot enough. Start with some warm water and then add boiling water to it until the EPO starts to expand.
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 07:56 PM
Not enough hours in the day
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Melbourne
Joined Feb 2009
2,427 Posts
I got the other way round... I boil water and then let it sit for a while to cool slightly.
I have plenty of scrap EPO foam so I submerge that first to test the temperature to see if it's "right". Just under boiling, around 90-95 degrees celcius seems to be good.
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 08:09 PM
CV-15 VB-16
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USA, TX, Friendswood
Joined Jul 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 52Sabre View Post
Oh ok. So basically hot tap water should do it? Is there a certain temperature range? Should I use a candy thermometer in my pan of hot water?
190F to 200F. A thermometer will help, yes. I've read the back of a spoon works well to smooth the gator skin.
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 09:09 PM
Avionics tech
52Sabre's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Rapids
Joined Jun 2011
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smoothing out gator skin

Quote:
Originally Posted by giuseppi View Post
I've read the back of a spoon works well to smooth the gator skin.
Explain.
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