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Old Feb 15, 2012, 12:34 AM
OlliW
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Hey Bern,
very nice report, much appreciated.

Hey red_colt,
I understand your confusion.

Keep in mind that nowadays almost any unit/item/device has a USB connector so that the three letters USB appear very frequently in product names. Also keep in mind that the word "adapter" is very generic and hence also appears frequently in product names.

For burning the bootloader into the GA250's Atmega8 you need an ISP AVR programmer. ANY such programmer will do the job. USBasb is one out of the many available ISP AVR programmers.

For flashing or updating the firmware and/or setting the parameters via the PC program AvrConfig, you need what I called the USB programming adapter. For building this ("my") USB programming adapter you can use some commercially available hardware, a main piece of this hardware is a FT232RL USB TTL adapter.

So, we are talking about two in principle completely different items which fullfill very different functions, the USB programming adapter and the ISP AVR programmer!

USBasb is an ISP AVR programmer, it is not an USB programming adapter.

Now, to make life confusing, depending on the choice of the particular hardware (i.e USB TTL adapter) which is used for building the USB programming adapter, it may happen that the USB programming adapter can also be used as ISP AVR programmer... this was the case with the hardware (Sparkfun USB TTL adapter) I provided to Luv. So, in this specific case the hardware allowed to satisfy both functions, that of a USB programming adapter and a ISP AVR programmer. This looked price efficient to me, but I was not aware at the time of the very cheap Arduino USB TTL adapter and I was not aware that USBasp can be purchased for $5 or less. So, therefor I do now recommend NOT to use a USB TTL adapter for both functions, but to use to independent, different hardware items.

So, since you build the gyromixer yourself you need to have BOTH a ISP AVR programmer and a USB programming adapter, and there are endless possibilities for each of them, I suggest by reasons fo their price USBasb and the Arduino USB TTL (JY-MCU) adapter.

If you don't intend to build the gyromixer yourself but get it preprogrammed, you won't need an ISP AVR programmer (or USBasb specifically).

Hope this clarifies the situation a bit. Cheers,
Olli
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Old Feb 15, 2012, 12:14 PM
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Old Feb 15, 2012, 01:03 PM
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Old Feb 15, 2012, 02:57 PM
OlliW
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Hey gyromixer friends,
I've changed access to the firmware/software slightly. It is available for free for hobbiests as before but you need to log in on my page to download it. Sorry for the inconvenience and thanks for your understanding.
Olli
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Old Feb 15, 2012, 08:14 PM
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
Hey gyromixer friends,
I've changed access to the firmware/software slightly. It is available for free for hobbiests as before but you need to log in on my page to download it. Sorry for the inconvenience and thanks for your understanding.
Olli
I noticed this as I was coming back through looking for a reference on which pins on the Sparkfun adaptor represent the correct pins since they are labled differently. This kind of peeves me off bro. Not you. But the fact someone would come along and take advantage of the gift you are openly helping all of us with.

Personally I do appreciate all your hard work and commitment to this venue. It took me from a newbie who basically knew nothing and helped me not only understand what you are teaching and creating but also how to hands on do it myself.
Thanks Olli!
Randy
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 05:38 PM
OlliW
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Hey Everybody,

one of the nastier steps in modding thw GA250 to become a gyromixer is burning the fuses and the bootloader, which needs using the ISP AVR programmer such as USBasp and a (more or less) suitable porgram to run the latter. In order to make this step as simple as possible I wrote a little Windows PC program, which I called AvrBurnTool. It doesn't free you from having to do all the solder work, but the process of burning the fuses and the bootloader hopefully is much simplified by AvrBurnTool. Get an impression by the attached figure.

Have fun, Olli
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 02:51 PM
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Hey, I needed to update the guys here on the latest also. I upgraded the esc's in my little prototypes and eliminated the gyro stutter problem entirely. What was happening was that the larger digital servos and overall electrical load was dropping the voltage or amperage supply down below the level the current 6a Turnigy esc's could handle. The addition of a 2a bec switched supply, and by separating the esc's on each side of the forward electronics components up front rectified the problem. I needed to separate the two heat soarces and allow the esc's to breathe. I also mounted them with the chips facing outward and cut venting holes through the clear shrink wrap covering. They come down cool now. Nest step is to do a final once through for the wiring harness and use braided covering on everything and route the wiring for a more professional look.

The OlliW gyromixer is once again a go.....
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 03:24 PM
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I would just like to mention that I installed Olli's GA250 gyromixer in my Esky Big Outdoor Lama and it is working just as superbly as it did in my CX2. For a more complete description of the set up flying and pictures see my Blog:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...5#post21053868

Bern
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:13 AM
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Luv, those are different motors, not C-10's. Are they the ones suggested by Sven or someone else in the Vtail thread or are we talking a completely different animal? You talk about the stutter and I saw this, sometimes, on my heli with the standard mixer we used. Sometimes when I powered it up, the motors would dither for quite a while before the ESC's armed and they were happy. Other times, it seemed to arm OK right off the bat. I guess something must be marginal or there is something else going on.
For those of us using DX6i transmitters, please dummy up your DX7 to only 125% throttle and see what the heli's fly like. For those using the Ollie gyromixer, but with a non programmable transmitter, how do you know what it will do?
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Old Mar 26, 2012, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
. For those using the Ollie gyromixer, but with a non programmable transmitter, how do you know what it will do?
I might be able to answer but I don't know specifically what you are referring to.
Do you mean how the settings in the gyromixer will affect the heli when using a non programmable Tx?
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Old Mar 26, 2012, 12:50 PM
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I might be able to answer but I don't know specifically what you are referring to.
Do you mean how the settings in the gyromixer will affect the heli when using a non programmable Tx?
The wording was a little awkward. What I meant was if you have a programmable transmitter, do you have gyro control through the transmitter or is it strictly controlled by what you input from the portable downloading device? I can control the gyro settings on my DX6i when I use a mixer and gyro as separate components. It would be nice to be able to change settings on the fly with your programmable transmitter rather than have to stop and do it with the other device.
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 12:53 PM
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Gyro control is setup with the field programmer or by your laptop. You no longer have gain control with the tx. And the motors are Turnigy 1811-2900 series.
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 12:20 PM
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(copied from another thread to be continued here)

Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
there should be an unused servo plug at your gyromixer (it should provide in total 5 servo plugs), if Luv used the same color scheme as I do it would be marked with a yellow shrink tube piece, but I can't know of course.
Yes the lead is color coded yellow. When I get some time I will hook it up and check it out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
The RobbeBox will display a message, which usually will be "disconnected". If you power up your system with the RobbeBox plugged in it will connect and you can go through the menu.
Do you mean to turn the transmitter on first and then power up heli as if I were going to fly normally with the RobbeBox connected in order to use the RobbeBox? Is there a difference in this method compared to the one below?

Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
Also, after power up, you can always establish a connection after the throttle has been totally low for more than 2 seconds (you may have noted that if you land and wait for few seconds the red led will flash, which will go away if you start again, the red led tells that the gyromixer is in what I call the THROTTLE LOW state). That is, fly around, then land and keep throttle low, plug in the RobbeBox and wait until connection is establish, do the changes you want, disconnect the RibbeBox, fly around and so on. BTW: while connected with the RobbeBox, the gyromixer will flash the blue led.
According to this the previous statement is not necessarily correct. I can just power the heli up normally as if to fly it, leave throttle low, and then connect the RobbeBox when the led is flashing red. Sorry, just making sure I don't let the smoke out
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 12:51 PM
OlliW
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OK, not sure which part is confusing but apparantly my wording is confusing, so let me try again:

The gyromixer can be in one of five states, which I have detailed in post #6:
(A0) Initialization and startup, the red LED is blinking very fast.
(A1) Rx signal recieved, the red LED is blinking fast.
(B) this state is not relevant if you have thro low at power up as you normally should have
(C) Thro low mode, the red LED will be on
(D) Flight mode, the red LED is off

A connection to the RobbeBox is possible in states (A) or (B) or (C), but not in state (D).

What does this mean?
Whenever the gyromixer is in states (A) or (B) or (C) and you plug in the RobbeBox at its port the gyromixer will establish a connection, which you will see by the blue LED going on and by a change in the display of the RobbeBox.
Now, let's first consider the power up scenario. Here many things can happen depending on what you exactly are doing.
The canonical power up procedure is that you first switch on the transmitter, set throttle low, and then power up the heli. Since the reciever will then usually bind quickly, the gyromixer will go through the initialisation steps quickly and you will reach quickly state (C). During all times, you mayx have the RobbeBox plugged in, or may plug it in, and you will get connection. So, you can plug it before you switch on the transmitter, you may plkug it in befroe you power up the heli, or you may plug it in whenever you like afterwards.
If you don't follow the canonical start up, e.g. becasue you first switch on the reciever, and then the transmitter, or you had throttle at midd (DON'T start up unintentiopnally with Throttle UP!), the gyromixer will stick in one of the initialisation states (A) or (B). In all these states you can get connection to the Robbe Box.
So, in short, whatever you do at start up, during all imes you should be able to plug in the RobbeBox and get connection (not sure I have missed a very fancy situation now, so the statements correct to 99%).
OK?
Now you don't want to start up, you also want to fly, that is at a certain point, when everything has initialised (usually then the motor BESC give the OK-we-are-ready beeps) you may wish to push the throttle stick up... with the result that the gyromixer enters state (D) (the red LED goes off) you you may fly. If a RobbeBox would still be connected, you actually couldn't start flying, that's a safty feature. Now you fly happily around, but suddenly realize that you still would want to adjust one of the parameters. So what you can do is tpo land, put throttkle low and wait for about 4 secs. After these 4 secs of Throotle low the gyromixer will enter state (C) again and the red LED will go on. If a RobbeBox is lpugged in, or you now plug in a RobbeBox, a connection will be established. Now you may wish to continue flying and push the throttle stick up...

BTW: I don't see any chance that you ever can "let the smoke out" with whatever you do with the RobbeBox. (only be carfull to plug in the servo port correctly with the gnd line at the top).

Hope this clarifyed things.

BTW: if you eventually understood all teh procedures, maybe you could write it up in a kind of tutorial/manual in your own words... might be more appreciated than my efforts (I guess I am too deep into this ).

Have fun, Olli
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 07:33 PM
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Yes I understand now. Thanks Olli! There is no way to screw it up unless it is plugged in incorrectly. Luv sent it with a servo extension plugged into the RobbeBox so its easy to plug in. I fired up the heli and plugged in the RB. Here are the settings.

Thro Max Value - 1913us
Thro Min Value - 1108us
Mot Max Value - 1900us
Mot Min Value - 1100us
Rudd Sense - 0.10
Dead Band - 05
Cntrl Limit - 150
LP Average - 2
LP Time - 01
Frame Length - 04ms
Thro Max - 100%
Thro Min - 000%
Thro Hover - 050%
Thro Expo - 0.00
Rudd Expo - 0.00
Rudd Rate - 1.2
Revo - 000
Prop - 000
PID I - 0.100
PID Gain - 1.50
Rate gain - 1.44
Gyro - Heading Hold

Last one answers a question you asked a while ago.
I will write up a how to.
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 11:37 AM
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Nice writeup Jrjr. I did have the heli set at 1.5 Rudd rate earlier but tamed it down. If you set it at 1.5 the piro rates get very aggressive. And cool. I liked it. It also made the tail more nervous, which I also liked. But on throttle pumps it had a tendency to wag more.

If you go into your setup at the bottom line notice it is on Heading Hold. You can toggle this into Rate and fly this way also. So even though it says rate gain right above it, it is actually flying in HH right now. So when I was using the Rudd rate at 1.5, I had the HH gain set down to 1.4.
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis View Post
So when I was using the Rudd rate at 1.5, I had the HH gain set down to 1.4.
If I switch to Rate mode will increasing Rate Gain to, say 1.6 or 1.8, increase gyro control or decrease it?
I am used to a gyro with value from 1-100 with 50 being the change point from HH to Rate mode.

Weather was not agreeable yesterday. Way too windy. Still is but better days are coming.
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 05:26 PM
OlliW
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Thx for your nice write up, Jrjr.
Quote:
will increasing Rate Gain to, say 1.6 or 1.8, increase gyro control or decrease it
increase, it's like if you would decrease the value further below 50 in your 0-100 gyro setting

I'd like to recall that in Rate Mode, the gyromixer is controlled by the setting of Rate Gain (and PID Gain and PID I are ineffective), in Heading Hold Mode, the gyromixer is controlled by the settings of both PID Gain and PID I (and Rate Gain is ineffective)
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 02:24 PM
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Also, your new heli likes the wind! I have had my best flights outside on windy days with its other brother. Toss those 55deg blades on and let it rip.
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis View Post
Also, your new heli likes the wind! I have had my best flights outside on windy days with its other brother. Toss those 55deg blades on and let it rip.
Yea, well today it was gusting at 45+ mph. Does it like THAT much wind?
The weekend is looking pretty sweet though......
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 12:55 AM
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Quote:
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Yea, well today it was gusting at 45+ mph. Does it like THAT much wind?
The weekend is looking pretty sweet though......
Ahhhhh well, not quite. 15, 20mph works though. 45? Wow, now that is nasty. The heavier build weight, extra power, more powerful servos and increased swash angle capability, plus the rock solid gyro make the heli you own flyable where most coaxials are grounded with the mildest winds.
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Old Jun 30, 2012, 08:33 AM
OlliW
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bump
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Old Jun 30, 2012, 12:40 PM
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Hello Olli

I'm sorry, neither I nor my friends found the time to fly let alone to build the coaxes with the gyromixer. So no news from my side.
I have planned to start now during vacation time when I finally will have some time....

Rini
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 07:34 AM
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I would hope the lack of activity in this and the brushless thread are because everybody is enjoying themselves during the Summer months. It's hotter than blazes this year and we see a LOT of wind with the heat. Another factor to consider is the re-emergence of the Aero-Nutz motors.
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 07:48 AM
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Yea I've been flying fixed wing and my 450 a lot. Today is our clubs picinic and the weather looks superb! Should be a great day.
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 06:18 PM
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Allright, thanks Olli for bumping this thread so I can go through the initial setup sequences again. I have to build and program a new one for my dual swashed 450 project. My new grip pins are finally on their way so I can run these 360mm blades. I will run this in conjunction with the Sk360.

My older CX3 just also finally got rebuilt yesterday after a long 4 month wait for out of stock motors from HK. Man, that was forever. But when I got the new esc's all wired in, much better than before I might add. I learn with every build. My red light is blinking on the OlliW gyromixer. And my orange Hk rx was toast. So I threw a new 6100e in there and it is doing the same thing. Maybe this one is defective also. I know the gyro is good as it was performing perfectly before I robbed the motors out of my build for a freinds project.


Ken, are you here?
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Old Jul 02, 2012, 03:25 AM
OlliW
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Quote:
I have to build and program a new one
you can use the windows program AvrBurnTool and your usbasp as you did for the arduino-coaxmixer. The version of AvrBurnTool you have is prepared for the GA250 gyromixer as well. So, connect your USBasp to the GA250 (i.e. connect GND,VCC,MOSI,MISO,SCK,RESET, the meaning of the pins on your USBasp you worked out in the brushless thread, the meaning of the pads on the GA250 board is given on one of the pictures of the GA250 board in post #3). Then start AvrBurnTool and go through the six steps. In the second step you find the option "ga250 coax gyro mixer", choose it. In the thrid step browse to the file "GA250_Coax_GyroMixer_Firmware_v022.hex" where ever it is on your system. Then just follow the next steps and things should work out.

Quote:
My red light is blinking on the OlliW gyromixer.
I would doubt that two recievers are defective. Unfortunately, "red light blinking" is not very specific since the gyromixer knows several red light codes (fast blinking, slow blinking, slower blinking, etc.pp). So, please, describe the light sequence as detailed as possilble (and the action you take) after startup until the red blinking you mean. See also post #7 for a detailed description of teh led signals.

@Rini: no problem, there is no expiry date on the gyromixers
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Old Jul 02, 2012, 12:32 PM
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Thanks Olli! Post #7 here I come. And this is exactly where I was at. Good to revisit fantastic info! Once calibrated my motors fired right up.

(A1) Rx signal recieved
Once a valid rx signal has been detected the gyromixer checks for the position of the Thro stick. The red LED is blinking fast. The gyromixer will wait as long as one the following positions have be detected:
Thro fully down (Thro low):
If the gyromixer detects thro down at startup it moves on and enters the Thro low state (C). Once it has entered this state the gyromixer can only be in either state (C) or (D).
Thro fully up (Thro high):
If the gyromixer detects thro up at startup it enters the Thro range programming state (B).

(B) Thro range programming mode
That's essentially exactly what is known for the BESCs. That is, as next step one is expected to pull the Thro stick fully down, which makes the gyromixer to store the Thro up and down values of the transmitter/reciever into memory, i.e., the gyromixer is learned as for BESCs. In that mode the red LED blinks slowly. Once Thro fully down is detected the red and blue LEDs start blinking alternatively, and the only way to get out of that mode is to switch off the gyromixer.


Now all I have to do is to set my motor directions correctly and add my blades! Kinda excited to get this new one going. I had a break as it was and this gave me time to really refine the wiring and layout of the components. It all fits perfectly now and isn't a wiring mess. Olli, I have high expectations for this heli for a great summer of relaxing flying. I should have this up in the air within an hour.

And If you don't mind, I might finish up my larger 450 build here as it is no longer a vtail configuration. All my coaxial builds from now on will utilize your OlliW gyromixers. I do wonder though, with all your other work perfecting the gyro application itself in CP helis if the gyro inside the coaxials will benefit from this?

Notice on this last CX configuration. I raised up the Gyro on dual pads so that I could use this height to keep the center servo wires in place and also route the battery wire. This way I don't have that ugly wire running down the side of the heli and worrying about gear interferance. As it now is I can connect the battery easier also. Plus the larger cooler running 10a Turnigy Esc's are mounted on the 6100e Rx, with the wires doubling back into the motors. So this config eradicated the wiring rats nest and allowed me to center the electronics better. Now the newer canopy fits like a glove. I do wish the HK orange Rx hadn't died on me. Odd, as it was working perfectly earlier? The plastic casing was a perfect mounting platform for everything. I may as of yet pull the cheap casing off the 6100e and install this into the orange shell just for this reason.

The reason I will tell everyone to at least use dual 10a rated esc"s is two fold. One, they run cooler. And two, I was actually having bec brownouts with my earlier smaller esc versions when I added more powerful servos. (Needed for dual swash configurations). And the Esc's were shutting down in flight. They make different versions of the 10a esc's. Get the ones with larger bec capacity.
My earlier apprehension against using larger versions was due to weight penalties. But the weight added isn't much, especially if you are using 3s.

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Old Jul 03, 2012, 06:37 AM
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I was thinking about doing a brushless conversion on my big lama and I just came across this thread.

Do you guys sell these gyro mixers?
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 09:05 AM
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it is a non-commercial project and hence not available commercially. You can contact Sven alias erdnuckel2, however, he may still have some available for you
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 10:09 AM
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Although I have 3 fixed pitch walkera helis that I like, I'm able to enjoy flying my CX2 and BOL, with GA250 gyromixer installed, the most. I'm really not a very good flyer and as such usually end up crashing, repairing and replacing parts as I'm currently doing with my fixed pitch walkera's.
Since installing the gyromixer in my CX2 and BOL, I have yet to have even the slightest mishap, crash or problem of any sort with these helis. Thus having less or no breakage I would have to say balances out the cost of this upgrade. Then, when you add in the more flying time and sweet pleasure you get from this type of system it's even more worth the cost in my opinion. Of course individual preferences and opinions will vary, but enough said.
I'm off to enjoy some flying.
Bern
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDFiend View Post
I was thinking about doing a brushless conversion on my big lama and I just came across this thread.

Do you guys sell these gyro mixers?
JDFiend, as OlliW has replied you cannot buy this GA250 gyromixer. The Assan GA250 gyro is a commercial product which Olli has modified for personal use and as such he cannot make it available outright for sale He has made available instructions for anyone to modify the gyro into a gyromixer themselves. If you don't feel up to the task of doing that, pm erdnucle2 who is a user on rcgroups he maybe could help you out.
Also check my blog for a summary of upgrading the BOL.
Bern
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 01:01 PM
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Or, you can have one of us build the gyromixer for you. At no profit. As OlliW's original intentions. If E2 has some left he will charge you the actual cost of the gyro and shipping. That includes the other costs of doing the conversion but not paying anyone along the line. I do believe you will need a Usb adaptor to use it with your computer (using OlliWs free software program) to set up the gyro when you get it. Things such as gain settings and other applicable parameters needed to tune up the gyro to your heli. Or you can pick up or build the Program box. Which I highly recommend if one is available. I sent mine out with a gyromixer a while ago with one of my new running brushless/boardless heli's as I financially needed to thin the herd. I just use my laptop now. But once you get these setup, they run forever without any dinking around.

This mod will totally transform your Lama! From an ill mannered, ill perfoming pia into a very nice flying heli. But you will also have to perform the brushless transformation yourself. There have been lots of guys that have done this to that heli throughout the loooong Bol thread. You get a heli that runs cool. The gyro is locked in. And flight times increase by a fairly large margin. And the motors last forever!
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 07:18 AM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
Joined Mar 2008
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My version is the coax mixer and separate gyro instead of the gyro mixer all in one. I can verify that the latest thoughts on motor size, ESC size and gyro work well together for my CX-2 and provide more power to boot with longer air time. All you need to do is increase the motor size for the increased weight of the BOL. I have 10A ESC's that should handle bigger motors, to a point.
Bebev, what you fly is a matter of preference. I went through the fixed pitch as well as a short stint with CP heli's and I like the coax's best. I have recently gotten a quad and, even though it's about as close to the ultimate heli as you will find, I'm having a long learning curve trying to get used to it. My coax's go from palm size to 450 size and they are all easy to fly.
The biggest thing the poster needs to do is get rid of the Esky electronics!! My 72Mhz Lama 4 was a giant PITA to say the least. Nothing like it falling out of the sky and doing the chicken dance! Get to a Spektrum receiver and transmitter that is programmable, like the DX6i, and you will immediately see the light!
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 12:35 PM
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Joined Oct 2005
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KJ,
I'll agree that an E-flite DX6I Tx an Rx might be a better system, but from my experience with the GA250 gyromixer in a coaxial the DX6I isn't necessary.
I am using the stock CX2 LPD5M TX with an orange DSM clone Rx in my CX2 and in my Esky BOL the stock Esky TX and Rx. These radio systems when coupled with the GA250 gyromixer for a coaxial heli have the benefit of performing as well as with a DX6I or any other programmable radio system.
I will admit that I do not have a DX6I system to say with absolute certainty that the DX6I wouldn't be better, However I can say that the stock radio systems for these helis when coupled with the gyromixer is so much better, that a DX6I just isn't necessary.
The key point that I'm making and to be understood is "when coupled with the GA250 gyromixer"
The cost of upgrading to a DX6I is another factor to consider, which would raise the overall upgrade cost of the heli considerably.
Bern
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 04:52 AM
OlliW
Joined Sep 2009
1,526 Posts
I've never had a LPD5M in my hands but since it's of similar size I guess that a DX6i might at most give a somewhat better "touch and feel" (e.g. the stick mechanics could be somewhat better), but otherwise I don't see real advantages of a DX6i over a LPD5M. As you say, the programing ability of the DX6i is not needed for the gyromixer, as the gyromixer itself provides a lot of those features.

BTW, this is also true for the coaxmixer - it provides essentially identical features and there is no real need to use a programmable Tx (and if required features were missed they could be added in a split second). It's only that the coaxmixer's features were not exploited yet.
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 07:01 AM
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The nice feature of anything above a DX5 is that you can fly multiple heli's or planes without a whole collection of transmitters. One transmitter controls my MCX-2, CX-2, Champ plane and MQX quad.
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 12:24 AM
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Joined Oct 2010
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Range boys, Range! That is the ultimate benefit of having a Dx6i over the LP5DSM. I had two very expensive prototype coaxials fall from the sky using the LP5 and both were totalled. After changing over, I never ever had an issue like that again. Just one of those helis would have paid for my new DX7. Plus, the TX remembers all your little adjustment settings. So all you do is plug and fly. No more dinking around to get the heli just right every battery change. I still have a pristine used once LP5 sitting in my closet. Why I kept that I will never know. I haven't touched it in years.

Here is my latest and last custom CX3. After building over 70 of these through the years this is my last one. And pictured is the Tx I fly it with. The heli flies perfectly and even banks with the correct upper head work. The tail hold is fantastic. And after OlliW's last gyro instructions the LH piros are absolutely insane. Plus I am again getting my 14min flight times and can fly it outside in mildly windy days without any hassle. I even flew it two days ago in 20mph gusty winds and had a blast. The extra power, and weight, plus the addition of the 55deg blades make this a great outdoor heli. And it is relaxing. Unlike my 6s and 12s prototype stretched 450s. When I am done flying one of those my hands and knees are usually shaking.

Olli, I do good work. But your gyromixer makes this heli! Thanks bro!
Randy

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Last edited by Luvmyhelis; Jul 07, 2012 at 02:33 AM.
Old Jul 09, 2012, 12:25 AM
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Denver, CO
Joined Mar 2009
383 Posts
Cool looking heli there^

Luvmyhelis, I was wondering, have you ever tried to modify a EXI (or similar) 250 cp kit into a coaxial heli using CX2 parts or Lama V4 parts? Do you think this could be done? I have a bunch of CX2 parts around here and it seems like it could be a fun project. I'm just not sure if the double motors and the 2 main gears could be made to fit on a 250 frame.

Joe
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Old Jul 09, 2012, 11:45 AM
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Honestly Joe, I never thought of doing that. As of yet I have never even laid my hands on a 250 frame. With thought and effort anything can be done!
Proof: I did the mod to a SeV2 450 frame as it was much much cheaper, more rigid, and gave me twice as much room as the Bol or 400. It is a brushless, dual swashed cp coaxial project using the OlliW gyromixer to sync the tail control. The 3 cyclics are being run with an Sk360 and at one time I even had a flymentor wired into the Sk360. I equipped it with two large torquey brushless motors. And as we know the Sev2 frame has hundreds of compatible parts. This one is destined to go into a scale airwolf body. No way to get the 400 or Bol into that. Nor could I mount the larger servos or any of the custom parts needed into either of them. The whole project stalled when we realized the manufacturer of the expensive dual swashed head had installed tiny little 250 grip pins instead of the needed pins to put 450 grips on it. So my head is sitting over with a custom machinist on the other side of the country waiting for the pins to be custom machined.
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Old Jul 09, 2012, 02:29 PM
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Denver, CO
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I'm working on building a brushless 450 size coaxial right now myself. I'm using a DoubleHorse 9053 frame for the base, with a modified Big Lama rotor head.

I was fortunate enough to obtain an OlliW Gyromixer from Sven, so I may have a few questions about setting that up when I get to that point.

I've never had my hands on a 250 frame either. Perhaps I'll order a cheap one from HobbyKing when I finish my 450, so I can actually see what can be done with it.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 06:42 AM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
Joined Mar 2008
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I'm certainly no expert at this, but I ordered the skid set for the 250GT from Hobby King and the size is not very different than a CX-2 or Lama 4. Why jump through hoops trying to figure out how to convert a frame meant for one motor into a double motor? The skid set is a one- piece design with large holes molded into it to lighten it. I don't know if they've followed the same idea into the frame to lighten it up. I guess the only consolation is their stuff is cheap and you can always toss it if it doesn't work.
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 06:00 PM
OlliW
Joined Sep 2009
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Quote:
I may have a few questions about setting that up when I get to that point.
JDFiend, you are most welcome to ask any question you might have! That's what this thread is for.

What is this with this bright yellow color? >8000 posts?
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
JDFiend, you are most welcome to ask any question you might have! That's what this thread is for.

What is this with this bright yellow color? >8000 posts?
Yeah, what is that? Kinda hard on the ole eyes.

Just shifting gears here. I put the final touches on my 12s 450 project and am going to open the new Ga250 case and start a new gyro with OlliW's more advanced programming programs. Olli, would you like me to do a photo step by step on this for new viewers? The reason I say this is that there are two kinds of guys here on this thread. The know hows, talented programmers such as yourself. And guys like me that kinda slog through the mud in the dark without a clue. On your German sites the step by steps are brilliant and thurough. But here we pretty much only have my earlier learning disaster and you trying to save the sinking boat. Lollz!

Plus, I am in no particular hurry and can take screen shots now with a new downloadable program I just set up. I am hoping that with some help a few more brave souls will try this, as it is the only two that can produce these is OlliW and those mainly European programmers that run in that circle. And myself here in the U.S. that I know of. Olli whips through these like a hot knife through butter , and I, well I plod through the programming part like a dull knife through a tough frozen steak.
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 09:12 PM
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Canada, ON, East Gwillimbury
Joined May 2012
7 Posts
Hey guys ,

Does anyone have a screen shot of some avrconfig settings for a BOL??
Or a link to a forum post with this information?

Thanks
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 10:01 PM
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United States, PA, Clarks Summit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSaurus View Post
Hey guys ,

Does anyone have a screen shot of some avrconfig settings for a BOL??
Or a link to a forum post with this information?

Thanks
Here's mine for my cx2, I used the same settings with very little change .
for my BOL post #297 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...450125&page=20
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Old Jul 12, 2012, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bebev View Post
Here's mine for my cx2, I used the same settings with very little change .
for my BOL post #297 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...450125&page=20
Thanks !!
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Old Jul 13, 2012, 02:07 AM
OlliW
Joined Sep 2009
1,526 Posts
@Luv:

I think that any documentation is of great help and much appreciated! So, as much as I am concerned, please, go ahead...

just a thought, since this probably could be a long post, couldn't it maybe better to have this in an extra GA250 gyromixer build thread, or alternatively to put it in here but to open an new thread there all the "daily" questions go into, to split into a build and a discussions log? Maybe the latter is the better approach, in the first thread one could have a link list, and one could carry over some of the information in the first posts and on later settings to the next posts...

but I leave this decision entirely to you guys, you are the users... and whatever you find is fine for you is fine for me

(BTW: it probably also could be good to have pictures, sketches, wiring diagrams for the "simple" things such as how to connect things for using AvrConfig etc. pp.)

@Bern: THANKS for jumping in and helping out...

isn't a forum a great thing? You are great guys, guys!

PS: Luv, you shouldn't downplay your gyromixer achievements and overstate mine...
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Old Jul 13, 2012, 06:04 AM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
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Luv, I consider you and your build abilities to be better than the average bear. That being said, you can imagine what the Average Joe is thinking when reading about your slogging it out through the mud. There are times when one tends to assume that everybody else knows what I know, and when it's discovered that isn't true, it's equally true that many will toss their hands in the air and give up in frustration because it's such a struggle. Good documentation is essential as well as proof-reading by someone who is absolutely clueless to find the weak points. What's needed is a best-guess write up followed by someone doing a fresh build who can test the waters going by it. I think there might be enough interest in guys wanting to build up a larger platform like a Walkera 400D or BOL also.
I have no idea why those banner color changes are there. They just happened. When they did it though, they didn't include the decoder ring or spinner beanie. The number of posts can't be the thing because there's a guy on the Champ plane thread who has less than 3,000 posts and he has a colored banner too.
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