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Old Feb 03, 2013, 12:07 AM
b.b.4
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United States, IL, Hoopeston
Joined Jan 2012
80 Posts
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Originally Posted by Mac50L View Post
My V1.1 kit replacement arrived a day ago. I'm fitting hinges at present. I see the rudder is bigger than on the V1. Also the motor bay has a top cap meaning I will assemble the halves and then glue the motor mount in gluing it to both halves this time. The top cap will be held on some how but still be removable. Valve grind or replace pistons? WHAT? All electric, well I never...

There is no cap over the wing spar but a groove for the servo wires. Another solder job possibly to lengthen the wires to the new servos. Though I didn't have any problems, new servos seems a sensible idea - they are cheap enough.

The V1.1 also comes with an anti-crash device - a pilot

The old Bixler's wing is still usable so will have to design and build something interesting to use it on.
Mac, my wing is in good shape also. Please post what you decide to build for it. ......b.b.4
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 04:51 AM
Head in the clouds
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Australia, VIC, Sebastopol
Joined Apr 2012
775 Posts
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Originally Posted by warp45 View Post
Yes, that probably is the easiest and most efficient way to do it - with less cutting and gluing - on the V2.0.

The problem is however, the 1.1 doesn't have space on the top like in the YouTube idea for the 2.0, as the two screw holes to hold the wings on are up there and I don't want to weaken the foam around that area. I'd have to put the ESC on the outside and under the wing someplace and probably without any cutout to fit it into (to cut down on air resistance). I'll see how hot the ESC gets before I go that route.

Any other recommendations?
Thanks.
Ah good point, I forgot about those bolts..
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 12:30 AM
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Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Dec 2011
23 Posts
This was my solution to the Bixler 1.1 wing bolts which were too short to reach the nuts. Seems to work so far and the bolts tighten up surprisingly well. It saved having to find longer bolts.



I also started making a carbon fibre skid but them remembered that radio signals don't like going through carbon, scratch that.

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Old Feb 06, 2013, 04:08 AM
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New Zealand, Canterbury, Rolleston
Joined Oct 2011
1,120 Posts
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Originally Posted by b.b.4 View Post
Mac, my wing is in good shape also. Please post what you decide to build for it. ......b.b.4
I see rob323 has put connectors in the wing wiring groove. I decided to just lengthen my wires to reduce the number of connectors so have cut the servo wires and spliced in an extra length. Though the wires from the aft servos would just reach the Rx and just be reachable (plug & unplug) I decided to lengthen those ones too. OK, soldering used to be a large part of my job so I'm used to it.

There were questions about servo arms clashing, what to do - I cut the rudder servo arm shorter by one hole.

Hinges have been fitted to all moving surfaces and using AJBaker's idea, this time they are pinned using toothpicks glued through them. I drill a 1 mm hole and then push in a toothpick that has been trimmed down to a size that will go through the hole in the hinge. This is about 1.5 mm.

I also note the mention of bolts being too short - one of mine doesn't reach the nut, the other one just does.

The pilot has been wired into his seat, meaning removable if he isn't up to the job.

The wings have 2 black stripes on top (invasion type stripes) and orange wing tips under (like a local Harvard trainer up on a plinth. The Deep Freeze Hercules (those that go down to the Antarctic) also have orange on their tails (as I've done).
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 09:47 AM
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Michigan
Joined Jun 2007
79 Posts
Bixler 1.1 wing bolts

I too at first thought that the bolts were too short. However, after working on the issue for a time, I realized that they weren't short. But because the fuse's two halfs and the wooden washers were not aligned, the bolt wouldn't go straight through to plastic nut. The wooden washers were not letting the bolt drop through to the nut.

So, I opened up the hole in the washers just a bit with my small dremel (elongated the holes parallel to the fuse seam). Now they drop in nicely and tighten up just right.
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 01:38 AM
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New Zealand, Canterbury, Rolleston
Joined Oct 2011
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One of my bolts is just long enough and the other is definitely too short (meaning the hole is longer). This is checking with the wings removed so there are no intermediate washers in the way and the head of the bolt is against the upper fuselage washer. A 70 mm bolt would do the job - if they are available. At least it is the aft one which means the forward one which reaches the nut does the work.

I also found the elevator pushrod too long. That is with the servos mounted with the arms forward so that's not the reason (not servos the wrong way round). I simply used a linkage stopper instead of a clevis as I preferred not to cut the pushrod if possible. Note: if the rod is long enough to reach a linkage stopper that means it goes past the horn!
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 07:12 PM
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Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Dec 2011
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My elevator push rod was too long as well.
None of my screws were long enough really. Even if you did unscrew the one and only bolt that would just catch the threads, you couldn't unscrew it enough for the screw head to appear above the foam to be able to grab it and remove it anyway.
I put bullet connectors on the esc so that I could remove the motor without having to cut wires if I had too. The extensions which I soldered onto the esc are long enough to allow the motor to be pulled from the plane and to expose the bullet connectors while leaving the esc in the plane.

I maidened mine on the weekend, perfect weather no wind, plugged in the battery, checked all control surfaces worked, gave it a toss and she dived nose first straight into the ground at half throttle.
What a way to christen a plane .
Somewhere between checking the control directions the night before and the unfortunate maiden flight the very next morning, both the elevator and rudder had reversed. That's got me stumped. The annoying part is that checking my throws is something I try to do before EVERY flight, I guess the excitement of a maiden got the better of me.

Anyway, back home to inspect the damage (to the plane and my pride), crumpled nose was the obvious one so on the stove went a pot of water but the wings had also loosened.
Upon removing the wings, this is what greeted me.


Everything has now been glued back up and I have reinforced that tabs on the wings with a layer of fibreglass. I'm thinking that nylon bolts should probably be used so in the event of a crash, the bolts shear instead of the tabs on the wings.

I also cut a few slots up in the nose of mine (under the cockpit) to allow air to enter and leave the lower servo hatch off to allow it to escape as the esc (30amp Plush) got very hot during a bench test run and came unstuck from the velcro.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 01:24 PM
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Leeds, UK
Joined Dec 2003
393 Posts
Took mine out for the first time today. Really impressed for so little money. It's my second plane after the HK Atom, this is much easier to fly.
The only issue I have found is CoG. Using the manual's 71mm from leading edge seems to leave it tail heavy. I already had my battery as far forward as possible, I actually stuck in the 250mAh 2s from my Atom to help balance it. Under power it tended to pitch up, but power off it floated perfectly.
It wasn't uncontrollable, just something to tweak. Otherwise it was awesome, very stable, easy to control and did exactly what I wanted it to, unlike the Atom that just seemed to take my control input as a suggestion
Loads of power too, climbed with ease, did some loops and it felt like it would happily loop for hours. I have two 1300MAh 3S Nanotech, I used one and was out for an hour. Quite enjoyed getting some height and letting it glide around.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 01:57 PM
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
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Originally Posted by sidneylopsides View Post
Took mine out for the first time today. Really impressed for so little money. It's my second plane after the HK Atom, this is much easier to fly.
The only issue I have found is CoG. Using the manual's 71mm from leading edge seems to leave it tail heavy. I already had my battery as far forward as possible, I actually stuck in the 250mAh 2s from my Atom to help balance it. Under power it tended to pitch up, but power off it floated perfectly.
It wasn't uncontrollable, just something to tweak. Otherwise it was awesome, very stable, easy to control and did exactly what I wanted it to, unlike the Atom that just seemed to take my control input as a suggestion
Loads of power too, climbed with ease, did some loops and it felt like it would happily loop for hours. I have two 1300MAh 3S Nanotech, I used one and was out for an hour. Quite enjoyed getting some height and letting it glide around.
If it pitches up under power then it's nose heavy. I know it's confusing but you'll see that's right if you think about it. A nose-heavy plane needs up trim to hold the nose up during floaty cruise. When you hit the throttle, that up trim will respond to to increased airflow speed by making the plane pitch up more.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 02:25 PM
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Leeds, UK
Joined Dec 2003
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I see what you mean. That makes sense, the power changes the way it handles.

It's just I've not set any trim, I set all the control services to neutral and left it at that. So following that logic, I'd need to move the weight back a bit and apply some down trim?
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 02:55 PM
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
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Originally Posted by sidneylopsides View Post
I see what you mean. That makes sense, the power changes the way it handles.

It's just I've not set any trim, I set all the control services to neutral and left it at that. So following that logic, I'd need to move the weight back a bit and apply some down trim?
Yes. Move the weight back and then trim it in the air. My Bix will fly straight and level at all throttle settings except the very highest. Then it climbs a little. But up to just over 3/4 it's like an arrow.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 03:42 PM
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Leeds, UK
Joined Dec 2003
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Cool thanks, I'll try that.
Where is your CoG? Without extra weight mine is further back than the 71mm.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by sidneylopsides View Post
Cool thanks, I'll try that.
Where is your CoG? Without extra weight mine is further back than the 71mm.
I don't know. I never measured it and now it's all apart for FPV equipment installation which has stalled out because I'm having too much fun being outside flying my other planes and helis...
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 06:24 AM
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New Zealand, Canterbury, Rolleston
Joined Oct 2011
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Just spent some time tonight working on an Bixler ARF for a friend. We measured the distance to the wing nuts with the fuselage disassembled - definitely need 70 mm bolts (65 mm would just work). They are 3 mm diameter so until I can find something, I might thread a bit of brass rod, put locknuts on one end and use that as a bolt.

The elevator pushrod was too long on the ARF too and I'd suggested he buy some linkage stoppers so though I had some with me, he was ready for the problem.

The wires on the motor are very short and any ESC you buy will also have short wires so part of the evening was splicing on extra wire.

NOTE - if making the motor wires longer, always cut the heatshrink and unsolder the pins (if fitted with them) as the wire is heavily enamelled making soldering further up the wire very hard to do.

Also the rudder servo was "graunchy". We replaced it as he had bought spares and I found the problem was that the gears had stripped as HK had let glue get into the gearbox !!!!!

It begins to make the kit a better option IF you know what you are doing as far as assembly goes.
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Old Feb 15, 2013, 05:52 PM
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Michigan
Joined Jun 2007
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Sorry to hear of your troubles getting the B1.1 together. Other than the alignment issue that I had with the two bolts (that I fixed by opening up the holes in the wooden washers), everything fitted just fine. The bolts are long enough. The push rods are just right. I added 3" to the ESC leads so that I didn't have to mess with the motor wires. I just finished installing my cooling cups on the front and back (to help keep the ESC cool). If the snow, wind, and cold ever let up I'll test it then fly. Looks good so far.
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