Thank for the response thats great thanks will let you know the outcome,
fingers still on I hope

Originally Posted by edak

okay, got my bix today.
The body is not glued so that makes it easy to attach the esc to the motor and also makes it easy to get the weights out (so I can put my 2200 3s in there).

I will go to my LHS and see if I can get better control clevis' and horns, I will also see if I can get anything to reinforce the spar.
Anything else I should look for when I am there?

Originally Posted by nogas

I got a few hundred mm of dual lock off ebay for $5 delivered. haven't used it all yet.

I only used GG to glue the Tail (incl. Hoz and vert stabilizers and about 3 inches up the fuse) and then medium CA for the rest of it. This way it should be easier to separate if need be. I find it easier to cut CA than GG.

Just want to thank you Guys especially Edak & Nogas for your contributions on the Bixler. I returned to RC flight a couple of years back, since the mid 1970's. I have waded through this thread & was beginning to wonder if anyone else had received their Bixler with separated fuselage halves. Well I'll go & do some glueing on the fuselage halves. Thanks again Fellas !!! Cid

Originally Posted by Cid The Merciful

Just want to thank you Guys especially Edak & Nogas for your contributions on the Bixler. I returned to RC flight a couple of years back, since the mid 1970's. I have waded through this thread & was beginning to wonder if anyone else had received their Bixler with separated fuselage halves. Well I'll go & do some glueing on the fuselage halves. Thanks again Fellas !!! Cid

RC Foam Tac glue is a contact cement formulated for RC foam. Works great.

Many Thanks Prof100. I have already obtained some foam safe CA 'ROKET odourless by Deluxe Materials. Is that suitable. Not used to these modern materials yet, it was balsa, ply & cascamite glue back then when I used to build planes. Cid

I'd recommend UHU por or something other foamsafe glue that bonds strong but remains elastic. CA bond can break up on harder landings.

Here's a crash video of my bixler. Built really well with take on the wings as belly.

Low Flying Bixler Fail (3 min 55 sec)

It's all better now.

FYI - I Just did an amp draw in real flying conditions.

Setup
Stock motor & prop. Hobbyking SS Series 18-20A ESC with a Turnigy S3 2200 20c Lipo.

Max amount of amps drew was 13amps at WOT. ESC was around 50c in temp while we had a 39c sunny clear day. Put about 900mAh back in the Lipo.

Readings was done from my Quanum telemetry system.

Cheers

Well had second good flight with the Bixler today added some led strips too

Bixler 2nd flight with added lights (5 min 3 sec)

night fly by george & luke

Bixler & AXN led night fly plane was catch by cameraman at the end

Bixler & AXN led night flyIng (10 min 36 sec)

Originally Posted by evltoy

FYI - I Just did an amp draw in real flying conditions.

Setup
Stock motor & prop. Hobbyking SS Series 18-20A ESC with a Turnigy S3 2200 20c Lipo.

Max amount of amps drew was 13amps at WOT. ESC was around 50c in temp while we had a 39c sunny clear day. Put about 900mAh back in the Lipo.

Readings was done from my Quanum telemetry system.

Cheers

If you want some more performance, get a TGS 6x4 from HK (or even better a genuine speed 400 APC 6 x 4) but you'll need a slightly higher rated esc. The TGS pulls 19A at WOT and peaks to about 21A under hard acceleration (with the stock motor)

Originally Posted by RUBNorris

Here's a crash video of my bixler. Built really well with take on the wings as belly.


It's all better now.

It bounced off the light pole pretty good, the Go pro didn't fair so well when it hit the ground though............ Was it just the case? any damage to the plane?

I thankfully haven't crashed mine................yet!!!!!!!

Originally Posted by nogas

If you want some more performance, get a TGS 6x4 from HK (or even better a genuine speed 400 APC 6 x 4) but you'll need a slightly higher rated esc. The TGS pulls 19A at WOT and peaks to about 21A under hard acceleration (with the stock motor)

Thanks for the info. I might change the prop down the track, but for now I'm pretty happy with what I have.

In regards to the TGS pulling 19A at WOT and can peak about 21A.. Could I just lower my throttle endpoint to trim out a Max of 18A and peak at 20A?

Originally Posted by evltoy

Thanks for the info. I might change the prop down the track, but for now I'm pretty happy with what I have.

In regards to the TGS pulling 19A at WOT and can peak about 21A.. Could I just lower my throttle endpoint to trim out a Max of 18A and peak at 20A?

You can't endpoint adjust your way out of over amping an ESC. It has to do with how ESCs work. The ESC always sees max amps. The ESC uses PWM to work and providea throttle variation. It's like a really, really fast switch but it is ON or OFF, not in between, so the ESC always sees max amps whether at full or 1/4 throttle. So, either prop down or increase the size of your ESC.

Originally Posted by Prof100

You can't endpoint adjust your way out of over amping an ESC. It has to do with how ESCs work. The ESC always sees max amps. The ESC uses PWM to work and providea throttle variation. It's like a really, really fast switch but it is ON or OFF, not in between, so the ESC always sees max amps whether at full or 1/4 throttle. So, either prop down or increase the size of your ESC.

Thanks for that. Might have a look at differnt props in the future.

Hi I am sure I have seen somewhere a perspex/plastic canopy with pilot for the Bix.Has anyon eseen one and if so do they know a link to the site.
Maybe it was home made dont know?????
If there is such a canopy could it be attached with magnets as per the original.
Thanks in anticipation.