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Hi.I have question regarding the radio.Is it easy to setap for the KK ulticopter board.I am just a begginer so i wnt to build the quadcopter and not sure which radio to use.please contact me A.S.A.P

Hi!

This is my 4:th flight with my Scarab 12. All 3 previous went so well and study so I forgot about battery life!! And of course the "cut off" was to happen when I got the confidence of climbing a little higher than before.

Amazingly the only things that broke was one blade out of one prop and the Pertinax-board I'm using for holding the cam gimbal. The Pertinax is to weak for this installation (reason for jello and wobbling picture, I think) so I need to make that in carbon anyway, so it didn't really matter...

This video is to long and unedited I know, you can stop watching after the crash if you want.

Thanks for all your help mates, have a merry christmas and a happy flying good year

Scarab12 4:th flight (1 min 55 sec)

Has anyone had any luck reversing the shafts on the CarbonBird motors? I've tried many times and the shaft hasn't even moved. I'm doing more damage to the case than anything else.

I've removed the c-clip, washers and the tiny screw and then drilled a hole in a block of wood as a brace while I hammer away...is there anything else I should do to make this an easier process? I've got 6 motors I need to do this with!

Originally Posted by nathasm

Has anyone had any luck reversing the shafts on the CarbonBird motors? I've tried many times and the shaft hasn't even moved. I'm doing more damage to the case than anything else.

I've removed the c-clip, washers and the tiny screw and then drilled a hole in a block of wood as a brace while I hammer away...is there anything else I should do to make this an easier process? I've got 6 motors I need to do this with!

Hmm all i did was use a vice with padding in between the sides, something like leather or suede so you don't mare the shaft, locked the shaft into place, then twisted the casing off.

I found this was the least offensive way of removing the shaft, i don't like whacking that shaft with a hammer, far too easy to bend the shaft.

Hope this helps.

Danny

Originally Posted by nathasm

Has anyone had any luck reversing the shafts on the CarbonBird motors? I've tried many times and the shaft hasn't even moved. I'm doing more damage to the case than anything else.

I've removed the c-clip, washers and the tiny screw and then drilled a hole in a block of wood as a brace while I hammer away...is there anything else I should do to make this an easier process? I've got 6 motors I need to do this with!

What do you mean with reversing the shafts? Is this something you do after some time? Maintenance?

Where is the best way to wire Andromeda LED board to the Paris board?

Originally Posted by Dynamicc

What do you mean with reversing the shafts? Is this something you do after some time? Maintenance?

You have to reverse the carbon bird motorshafts when installing on a Y6 as one motor goes on top and one bellow.

Danny

Well, apparently I needed a better tool. I tried twisting the casing off while the shaft was in a vice grip but that didn't work. Ended up using a piece of metal the size of a pencil that narrowed at the tip and hammered it out.

Originally Posted by nathasm

Well, apparently I needed a better tool. I tried twisting the casing off while the shaft was in a vice grip but that didn't work. Ended up using a piece of metal the size of a pencil that narrowed at the tip and hammered it out.

Oh wow, never had to do that before, hope the shaft is still straight, roll it on a mirror and that will show you if it's bent or not.

All the best

Danny

Originally Posted by drmgcm

Oh wow, never had to do that before, hope the shaft is still straight, roll it on a mirror and that will show you if it's bent or not.

All the best

Danny

That's a great idea, thanks! It looks to still be straight, no issues.

However, now that I've reversed the shaft, I'm wondering if I need to cut the shaft down...or push more of it to the motor-mount side (by the wires). My reasoning is that the compression nut should sit flush with the motor. Right now I've got about 2-3mm of spacing. On the motor-mount side I have the 3 spacers and the c-clip sitting pretty much flush with the motor.

Cut the shaft down or push more of it to the opposing side?

Originally Posted by nathasm

That's a great idea, thanks! It looks to still be straight, no issues.

However, now that I've reversed the shaft, I'm wondering if I need to cut the shaft down...or push more of it to the motor-mount side (by the wires). My reasoning is that the compression nut should sit flush with the motor. Right now I've got about 2-3mm of spacing. On the motor-mount side I have the 3 spacers and the c-clip sitting pretty much flush with the motor.

Cut the shaft down or push more of it to the opposing side?

I cut the shaft down with a dremel tool, i took about 3mm off the end to get the prop adapter to sit nice and flush! Just make sure you seal up your motor with say masking tape before hand, you don't want any metal dust getting into the casing.

Danny

i put the motor in a ziplock bag and poke the shaft thought the side of the bag and tape around the hole. then cut off the shaft with the dremel

works great

I was looking for a second multicopter to backup my Mikrokopter Hexa XL which I use for my COPTERCAM project. It needed to be smaller and more agile for video work, and with more risk of crashing due to flying around rather than sitting up high taking stationary photos, it need to be a lot cheaper than a Mikrokopter.

A friend referred me to the Scarab, my first reaction was it looks very nice, and it was 1/4 of the price of a Mikrokopter, however, I wasn't sure whether it would fly out of the box as stable, as I had spent a year trying to get 2 arducopters flying stable.

The Stealth Reconn arrived yesterday, and I took it for a maiden flight in the underground carpark this evening.

It flew very nicely, without having to go through the PID tuning of an arducopter. I did have to do a flew hover and landings to trim it for level model, something that I didn't have to do on a Mikrokopter. But hey, after 5-6 hops, its hovering in position without pilot input. I would have to say that compared my flight experience with a Mikrokopter its 90%, the frame quality is 110%, and the price, well its 1/4 of the price so its good value for money.

Before any Scarab fans tell me I got my red arms the wrong way and they should be rearward, I know, they are forward because Mikrokopters have red arm forward, so I'm just maintaining consistency on my fleet.

Looks great, the Paris 4.0 board is much more ready out of the box than arducopter. I got feed up with my APM as well.

Nice looking scarab.