|May 30, 2011, 11:44 PM|
MultiWiiCopter.com Scarab Airframes (Vampire,Y-6,Hex,QuadOcta,Armour,Avatar)
Welcome Multirotor Pilots!
The MultiWiiCopter.com Scarab multirotors are designed to be efficient, durable and smooth flying copters for FPV, AP or flun-fly use. The modular design of the Scarabs allow for easy removal of parts for travel and repair. Builders can cut the booms to suit their needs. Everything that goes into the Scarabs and other products form MultiWiiCopter.com are designed and tested by professionals. Quality, design and attention to details are just some of reasons why Scarab copters are superior to other brands. The recommended Paris v.4 flight controller with Sirius IMU is highly recommended, but other controllers can fly these copters too such as the popular DJI Naza and WooKong M. CarbonBird motors perfect matches for the Scarabs; with their custom-specs and quality bearings you can expect to get smooth and long flight times. See the latest Scarab airframe choices below - there's bound to be a Scarab that works for you!
--==| Hexacopters |==--
Carbon Scarab Vampire
The Carbon Scarab Vampire is the latest creation from the drafting boards of MultiWiiCopter.com. Its claim to fame is that it flies like a quadcopter ("sporty") but has the lifting power of a hex. The H-type frame features two motors close to the center mass that provide additional lift without sacrificing stability. The Vampire's design can hold a Sony Nex 5n or similar APS-C cameras mounted to the roll stability gimbal. Custom flight code for the Vampire is provided by MultiWiiCopter.com. A custom motor mix is required for WooKong M (Naza will not work)
Carbon Scarab Y-Siix
The Carbon Scarab Y-Siix from MultiWiiCopter.com can easily hold a GoPro or even an APS-C sized camera. The Y-SIIX is an all carbon airframe with special motor mounts for coaxial motor setup. The long carbon landing gear is strong, lightweight and provides ample ground clearance. Extra thick carbon booms are provided for increased strength. The standard boom length should be around 280mm - which works very well. The CarbonBird 775kv motors and Paris v4.x control boards are a perfect match for this copter.
--==| Quadcopters |==--
Carbon Scarab QuadOcta
The Carbon Scarab QuadOcta is another great copter from MultiWiiCopter.com. It's an all carbon airframe with the same long carbon legs from the Y-Siix. The center frame plates are quite large providing ample room for FPV gear, mounting your GoPro and optional stabilized camera mount. The CarbonBird 775kv motors and Paris control board are also great choices for this airframe. The booms length one this airframe is best at around 260mm for smooth AP flying.
NEW! Scarab FPV Stealth Reconn v.3
The Scarab FPV Reconn v.3 is a complete redesign of the older FPV Reconn for improved strength, agility and grace! Carbon or FG frames are available now, and we'll probably see the full kits offered soon. Key features are: New top plate design for access to frame core and protects the FC. A brushless gimbal is in the works for this copter and will be a direct plug-in-play addition. The new lightweight frame with a tail for mounting the GPS module. The frame plates have holes to mount VRS balls (same VRS balls from the 8-Balls) to mount additional plates isolated from vibration.
Scarab Stealth Armour
The Scarab Stealth Armour is the beginner quad from MultiWiiCopter.com - and a good one at that! It's a very simple setup with the smaller 1175kv motors that are very powerful on 3 or4s batteries. The Stealth Armour can be setup for super stable flight or for extereme aerobatics and speed. The Armour's low mass reduced damage in the event of a crash. The Scarab Seath Armour comes in two flavors: Carbon and Metal. The difference is the material the booms are from. The metal Armour is the best for starters with it's nearly indestructible metal booms.
--==| Tricopters |==--
Carbon Scarab TriiKopta
The Scarab Triikopter is one of the first tricopters on the market to feature a full rotating boom/motor assembly. With its unique design, the Scarab Tri provides smooth and authoritative yaw control. With the servo being located in the center frame, it gets protected from hard landings and makes for a well balanced frame. The Triikopter with the 775kv CarbonBird motors is great airframe for AP or FPV. The center frame allows the owner to upgrade to a Hexa or Y-siix at a later date by just adding the additional components.
Carbon Scarab Avatar
The Scarab Avatar is a new idea on the traditional tricopter. With it's twin-twisting front motors for yaw control it's yaw authority is like nothing you've seen before! The Avatar fits the CarbonBird FPV CCD camera in the nose as seen above. This small copter is great for action-style flying with it's sleek size and sporty nature. The 775kv motors and Paris flight controller are well suited to make this unique copter fly like a dream. The Scarab Avatar can also fly with a GoPro Hero 3 camera mounted using the regular Scarab GoPro mounting system.
Visit MultiWiiCopter.com for more information, photos and videos of these copters in action.
MultiWiiCopter.com Video Page: http://www.multiwiicopter.com/pages/videos/
|May 31, 2011, 12:48 AM|
Here are some photos and videos of my Scarab copters that I've built over the last 6 months.
|May 31, 2011, 01:14 AM|
Joined Dec 2010
|May 31, 2011, 04:17 AM|
Well, got to say I’m impressed. First class kit from MultiWiicopter that has obviously had a lot of R&D put into it. I have just ordered my second kit as am very happy with the product quality and support. Paid full RRP so opinion of value for money and kit quality is based on that.
Flew my maiden with the new quad today. Was happy with the stability, particularly after reading the Wiki stating that a 900grm number was on the heavy side….Mine was nearly double that with all the gear on board so had some reservations. Turned out to unfounded with hover a breeze at well under half throttle.
As far as the build goes, great information to learn from throughout the Wiki, cheat sheet supplied, forums and building instructions. I guess for a kit with so many possible combinations and builder ability levels it does very well.
The mechanical side of the build is pretty straight forward.
The rest....Choose a Warthox or Paris, use the BMA020, NK, BMA 180, LCC, add a BARO to the LLC LV side, load up the driver so you can use the FTDI with Arduino® Pro Mini 328 - 5V/16MHz, then tune with the JAVA-configGUI App and you’re in business……….
If you are a knuckle dragging Mode 1 ACRO based Microsoft dependant flyer like myself who isn’t up to speed on the above or completely fluent with Yaw, nick, roll, cyclic translations then it may be worth a read.
|May 31, 2011, 04:18 AM|
I believe the things to think about pre a Scarab build should be based on what you intent to do with it. The MultiWiicopter site lists many motor options so if you are wanting to load it up with a heap of gear like myself then go with the med-high end one, Turnigy 28 from HK or more upmarket equivalent ones and I would suggest a 10 to 12 amp esc. I ended up fitting Plush 25a ones as I use that type across the board in all planes, have the programming card and have found them very reliable. 25a was all that was in stock that day. They are a bit heavier and harder to fit but will be under little load so hopefully very reliable. I would say they are about the size limit of what you can fit on the platform and would recommend a 10-12a option.
Also work out what configuration is best for your application. I went with mounting the Warthox on the mezz under the boom mounts. More protection and frees up the top for other uses.
Other option is the Carbon kit. The main difference is the 20% reduction in chassis weight and a more rigid frame so it’s really up to you and your budget.
As far as the flight controller goes, the option details are very well covered on the site and related forums.
The build. I don’t have the requirement at the moment to have to strip down the Scarab for transport so have hard wired the motor and escs. I prefer not to use the included esc and motor connectors (more points of failure) but on my next build I will look into leaving a bit of slack in the wires where they exit the boom to the esc so the boom mount could be loosened enough to slide out and fold back for transport. Would be just a matter of marking a reference point on the boom and bulkhead so the 5deg yaw could be correctly set up again
As per the instructions, I built up the boom mount section first, in doing so found it better to locktight the bottom screws in place as it is unlikely that they will require loosening and it prevents the possibility of the spacers spinning when you fit the top screws. These are a 2mm screw with a 1/16th allen head so small enough to prevent overtightning as you are more likely to strip out the hex. You may also want to fit the deck mount screws now as once the booms are in place you have buckley’s of getting then in.
HK are now suppling just the bare unit on their newer series motors and with the prop hub adaptor being on backorder I went with mounting the motor from below and using a 3mm prop shaft adaptor. Many say this mount option also puts less stress on the bearings but in turn more likely to contact the ground. I just drilled a 1.5mm hole and ran a 2mm tap through the thick cross section of the motor mount for the 2x8mm screw. 20awg wire is more than capable of handling the load even with my heavy build. Mine ended up drawing a total of 10-12amps on hover and 25 when the throttle was cracked open. I was surprised how efficient this was considering the weight.
Wire up your escs and add top deck. It was at this point I flipped the lot over and set the 5deg yaw in each boom. Easier and more accurate to do it now as it is an important setting and not something I would recommend doing with line of site. You could even just cut out the 5deg diagram on the last page of the instructions to make a gauge. Yaw settings are important and is harder to fine tune later. It also does not appear to be something that can be adjusted on the “hover mode” tuning so thought it best to put in the effort to set right at the beginning.
Next up is to individually setup and jointly synchronise the escs. I recommend making up the suggested 4 into one rx lead to synchronise them all. I had one esc that just took that little bit more time than the rest to fire up but after wiring then all up to the throttle channel at once and going into programming mode, then out, they all synced up perfectly. Then remove the red wire ready for connection to controller. I think using a 3a UBEC set to 5v across all variants of build and sensor options is a good idea. You need to run one with the 180 sensor anyway. On the Warthox board I soldered to the pos-neg joints next to the throttle connector, on the Paris VCC is positive, BCC neg (thats how the labelling came accross to me anyway)
I ordered the USB to FTDI card from Multiwiicopter so I could interface my pc to the copter. This card is basically a serial to USB adaptor and you need it to upload a configuration to the Wii board. The pre-loaded settings (if you buy the built unit) are very good in terms of flight characteristics but you may still need to do some basic changes as explained in the Wiki so get yourself a card. I needed to change the esc option to suit the plush esc and you can also change the motor start-up option so they don’t spin when the armed.
I run 32 bit Windows 7. http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm
I noticed that the virtual port was assigned to com7 so as expected you may see some variances to the Wiki info based on your pc setup
Then download the http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/software
This is basically just the software which displays the configuration, allows you to edit it and then upload to the copter. Be aware that you are not able to load the file from the copter to edit so it is important to keep a copy of the last known good config and changed file before uploading to copter.
Lastly there is the MultiWiiConf1_7.application. http://multiwii.googlecode.com/svn/t...ltiWiiV1_7.zip
This is a great little program (GUI) that logs into the copter via your virtual com port. It give you the ability among other things to fine tune the flight settings and view a live feed of what the board is doing so a great fault finding tool or tuning to suit specific application. The Wiki has a lot of info and screen dumps which is the only way to save your settings/changes. It is recommended not to change more than one thing at a time. There is also a post at the start of the Paris thread with info on building a LCD screen that interfaces with the Wii to allow changes but understand that this does not save once powered down like when you make a change via the GUI.
I run a Spectrum and just wired it up as per the diagram. Reverse channel 2 and 4, set endpoints to 110% and run about 50% expo on Ail, elev and rud. You can also dial in a bit on the throttle to give you more progressive landing control.
The rest of the build is straight forward and probably varies a bit to suit your requirements. When I mounted the gopro I used the box packaging mount, cut it down a bit and used some 20 x 3mm nylon screws/nuts with 10mm length of large soft silicon fuel tubing between Scarab and camera base. I also made a orientation point with a 3mm carbon tube with a fluoro orange ping pong ball on the end.
Other thing that may be of interest is the calibration for mode one flyer.
left rudder, then down stick (elev back) for gyro cal
same for ACC cal but with throttle full up (obviously after disarm)
Will add more things as they come to mind but above is a summary
|May 31, 2011, 06:47 AM|
Seems expensive for a few main plates, 4 helicopter boom mounts, 4 heli booms. 4 G-10 motor plates and NO LG. What makes it an AP frame?? There is not even an optional camera mount LOL.
|May 31, 2011, 07:01 AM|
United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Dec 2006
im sure this isnt a for sale thread is it? we have a section for for sale items.. and yes the frame is way over priced@@
|May 31, 2011, 10:03 AM|
What makes it a decent AP frame is the larger motor to motor span, and its ability to angle the motors slightly for better yaw neutrality.
|May 31, 2011, 06:59 PM|
I paid full price for mine, i.e. have no vested interest if they sell or not.
Personally, after looking at various quads over the 'net, I decided on purchasing the Scarab because of the reasonable (IMO) price and the fact that it is a local product.
I am extremely impressed with the level of engineering and quality of the kit components.
I'm off work for a few days so will be starting my build today
|May 31, 2011, 07:29 PM|
|Jun 01, 2011, 07:27 AM|
I've assembled the mid deck with the boom support block bases and lower deck supports.
I used Loctite on all the screws to ensure they do not come loose.
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