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Old Mar 28, 2012, 07:56 PM
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I would say yes, it's practical. Stowing and transporting the wing assembly is a bigger pain than mounting. The wings are a little bulky for a tote. But the struts make them really easy to handle.

Some of us find ways to streamline servo or strut connections. I replaced the clunky hex bolts and nuts with a post and cotter pin assembly that works great and takes seconds to connect the struts. A guy at the field saw me fussing with the hex bolts and said here, try these pins. Terrific. Many other good ideas out there.

You can easily mount and dismount in a couple of minutes with some planning. And a Robart stand.
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Old Mar 28, 2012, 10:10 PM
bryansifsof44's Avatar
United States, AK, Anchorage
Joined Oct 2011
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Originally Posted by straitnate14 View Post
I have had planes that were no fun to fuel and hard to start but this is about as easy as it gets. It has a 3rd line in the take for fuel/de-fuel and all you have to do is set it at full throttle cover the exhaust and flip it over 2 times slowly and then on the first flip it fires right up, in the video it had nosed over during a landing in the tall grass and I didn't prime it and it was warm so it took a couple extra flips.
I was saying that because I live in Alaska and the cold will keep the glow guys messing with there engines sometimes... I occasionally get two packs in by the time some get airborne. I have nothing against glow, and rebelled the elec switch for a long time, but I'm happy I did.
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MMBTUS View Post
Some of us find ways to streamline servo or strut connections. I replaced the clunky hex bolts and nuts with a post and cotter pin assembly that works great and takes seconds to connect the struts. A guy at the field saw me fussing with the hex bolts and said here, try these pins. Terrific. Many other good ideas out there.
I've thought of looking for something like that to speed up assembly but I wonder about rattles and the fact that the strut holes are oblong and therefore will allow the wing to stress if they are not bolted tightly.

Have you found any issues with either?

Paul
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 11:41 AM
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I use a piece of silicone tubing to compress the fittings, restricting movement. And the strut tab connections seem pretty darn tight, without any flex.

Still, I would say it's possible for things to move a tiny bit under hard load. I fly her pretty gently. Crashing is another story.

Let me figure out how to send you a pic. Once I tried these, the wow ease factor and great fit trumped other concerns.
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 12:22 PM
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I think I posted my solution back earlier in the thread. I took the 4-40 bolt thru the fitting on the fuse, locktite and a nut on the back side of it. Now you have a 4-40 threaded stud. Slide the strut over the stud, and install a locknut. Witha nut driver, it goes very quickly. No problems after many flights, and I have used the same technique on my 1/4 scale super cub for years.
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Wrongstuff05 View Post
I enjoyed your video. Nice scale flying. Beware of the departure stall, you caught yours quickly, but I crashed a cub recently that way.
yeah it was a little rough trying to fight the tall grass on takeoff. I knew I was forcing it off the grass early and was ready to put down elevator in. Not the way I like to fly but it was to late to mow the whole field and once you get it in the air it's hard to put away for the night!
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 07:36 PM
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I agree, I also fly off of tall grass. When you want to fly, you just go for it.
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 07:51 PM
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I hope that the new 4 inch dubro inflatable wheels help took my hotts 40 out instead of the cub tonight so it will have to wait for the weekend
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 03:34 PM
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So.... my Eflite lighting controller arrived and I wired up the landing lights. Works fine (although the switch point is more like 40% instead of 50%). But the micro sized connectors used for the lighting kits seems extremely inappropriate for something that will be mated and un-mated repeatedly. For one thing, you almost have to pull on the tiny wires to un-mate it because there isn't anything to grip on the female half. Has anyone had any problems connecting and disconnecting the wing(s)? Or isn't anyone actually using landing lights?

I'll fly it this way for a while but I think I will eventually replace the connector set at the wing with a standard servo connector.

I have the wing tip lights wired to pick off power from the aileron servo wiring in the wing and they will be always on, so there is no nav light connector needed at the wing root.... just the landing lights.

One possibility I will work on is to turn the flap servos around so they don't have to be reversed, and then set them up so zero flaps is about 30% and the first notch of flaps is maybe 60%. That way if I put the controller in parallel with the flap servo, when I lower the flaps the landing light will come on. If I can get that to work, I can use a "Y" connector in the wing (instead of at the receiver on the AUX2 channel) and put the lighting controller in the wing and do away with the connector at the wing root.

Paul
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 06:28 PM
Lori, hey, you're home early
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United States, NJ, Trenton
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Took me three days to read through this thread. Looks like I'm getting one. Can't wait to get her in the air.
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 06:29 PM
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I 've never used a light controller... been curious about the e-flite controller haven't looked at it closely ,I've always just used servo connectors and wired them up my self with a y connector off of a open channel . The lights I 've been using on other planes are a little big for the holes ...The e-flite set others have mentioned are not so brite ....I recently found sets made up on ebay and I like the brightness people notice them at a distance and they're at good prices,the drawback is they're 5 mm so I sanded them down on the sides and I 'll use them on the wing tips ..Have'nt thought about the rest yet..
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by planesilver View Post
I 've never used a light controller... been curious about the e-flite controller haven't looked at it closely ,I've always just used servo connectors and wired them up my self with a y connector off of a open channel . The lights I 've been using on other planes are a little big for the holes ...The e-flite set others have mentioned are not so brite ....I recently found sets made up on ebay and I like the brightness people notice them at a distance and they're at good prices,the drawback is they're 5 mm so I sanded them down on the sides and I 'll use them on the wing tips ..Have'nt thought about the rest yet..
The Eflite light controller is actually pretty nice for $8 and change. It is smaller than the photos would have you believe, for one. Near as I can tell, it is just a switch with four parallel 5V outputs. It switches at about 50% servo travel. I put it on the AUX2 channel and then mixed both the flap channel and the gear switch to AUX2. When I drop the flaps OR activate the gear switch, the landing lights come on. I don't think there are series dropping resistors on the controller but there is no real information that comes with it. The connectors they use for the LED outputs are very small, as are the wires.

I didn't use the Eflite LEDs at all.

For the landing lights, I used some super bright white 5mm LEDs that I had, with 100 ohms in series with each LED. They are plenty bright. I added a pair of small flashlight reflectors... the reflectors are more cosmetic than anything, since the LEDs themselves are focused to about 25 degrees field of view.

For the nav lights, I have some super bright 3mm red and green LEDs on the way. Those will also get 100 ohms in series, and should be plenty bright to see in daylight.

Like you, I will probably switch to a servo connector set, or maybe a JST.

Paul
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 12:37 PM
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United States, ID, CDA
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I haven't mounted the nav lights yet ,just fitted them ...I'll get some 3 mm ones and try them ...I did buy some flat ones last summer at raidio shack they were nice and bright all except the green it was more like lite yellow....so I went to ebay .I 'll try the conntroller and build a set
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 02:36 PM
Lori, hey, you're home early
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United States, NJ, Trenton
Joined Jan 2004
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Yahoo! Picked up my SC this morning from an RCG'er. Great looking model. Almost completely assembled and included a set of Dubro 4" tire balloon/tundra tires. With the lipo ot weighs almost exactly 6 pounds. Probably would have been under 6 pounds with the stock tires. It seems to CG at right around the 2 3/4" mark with the 3s 3000 lipo pushed right up forward below the motor (E-Flite Power 25). I think the only mod I'll do right away is to remount the servos to the front of the cockpit and use carbon rod for pushrods. Didn't think to ask for the stock wheels. Should have.

I'm pretty impressed with the overall quality and beauty of the Cub. Love the preinstalled guide tubes for the lighting wires. Wasn't sure of their track so I inserted a 1mm carbon rod into the guide tube in the fuse and pushed gently. Other end emerged from the rudder. Nice engineering. I'll use the carbon rod to pull the wires through. I bought some 32g wire from HK last year along with a bunch of super brute LED's on ebay. Hard to find green and red LED's of the same intensity
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 04:03 PM
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United States, MI, Rochester Hills
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Originally Posted by CarreraGTSCS View Post
Hard to find green and red LED's of the same intensity
Not a problem. Choose a series resistor such that the dimmer color is as bright as possible (or as bright as you need it) without exceeding the forward current rating of the LED. Then choose the series resistor for the brighter LED such that it is as bright as the dimmer one.

Paul
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