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Old May 25, 2011, 10:52 AM
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TL50 Build

Ok, so here is my first installment of a video blog on the TL 50 and if things work out the Zephr will be the next one documented. I wanted to nail the TL 50 down first because there are a lot of techniques that will directly apply to the Zephr and when I do make a mistake I'd rather it be on a $100 wing than my $200+ Zephr.

This vblog will detail progress on building the TL 50 and serve to further my understanding of the process. A lot of the information is from the Ritewing build thread on RCGroups, Chris Klique himself, and a few other sources. I hope some more experienced builders will chime in with tweaks and tips. I'll try to upload a new video for each part of the build.

Here are some links to the forums and the wing:

http://www.ritewingrc.com/
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=684818

The parts list:

TL 50 from Ritewing: http://www.ritewingrc.com/buy-cores/wing-cores/
(2) 2S 5300mAh Gen's Ace lipos [these will be wired in series for 4s]
Castle Creations ICE 100 ESC
AR600 DSMX reciever
Rocket 28/56/1900kv motor: http://www.ritewingrc.com/buy-cores/electronics/
Hitec Digital HS6635HB servos

Goals: 130+ MPH

This is my first attempt at building a Ritewing, using Sony Vegas Pro, and doing a vblog so mistakes are bound to happen!

RiteWing tl50 Video Blog - Part 1 (5 min 4 sec)
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Old May 25, 2011, 08:38 PM
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a good trick ck has for gear layout: use a pushrod to stab through the wing to measure depth- so you can see if the thickness of the wing will accomodate the battery+coro hatch. you want the batterys a far forward as possible- all the way cut into the bottom and snug with the top, but you dont want to cut too far forward as the battery will deform the wing if you push it past where it fits.

looks like a good setup though man it should hammer!

i would suggest buiding the TL50 semi heavy, with at least 2 layers of glass- you want to be able to go mad on the aerobatics without worrying if it is gonna fold. especially at 130+. and i would suggest building the zeph semi lite, with maybe 1 layer of glass on the whole thing. i built mine with 1 layer of riteweave and with 5000mah of battery it comes in at about 1900g or 62ish ounces. and you are going to be adding fpv gear to that!

good luck man enjoy. these things are seriously fun
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Old May 25, 2011, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brosius85 View Post
a good trick ck has for gear layout: use a pushrod to stab through the wing to measure depth- so you can see if the thickness of the wing will accomodate the battery+coro hatch. you want the batterys a far forward as possible- all the way cut into the bottom and snug with the top, but you dont want to cut too far forward as the battery will deform the wing if you push it past where it fits.

looks like a good setup though man it should hammer!

i would suggest buiding the TL50 semi heavy, with at least 2 layers of glass- you want to be able to go mad on the aerobatics without worrying if it is gonna fold. especially at 130+. and i would suggest building the zeph semi lite, with maybe 1 layer of glass on the whole thing. i built mine with 1 layer of riteweave and with 5000mah of battery it comes in at about 1900g or 62ish ounces. and you are going to be adding fpv gear to that!

good luck man enjoy. these things are seriously fun
Nice tip on the pushrod as I've read that somewhere before but didn't combine it into my personal build notes that I keep! Thanks

Per CK he mentioned building it really heavy with spars: 2 main, 4 fiberglass, and a 2-3mm rod across the bottom to create an A frame. A PU job on the bottom with double layers of riteweave (ahead of the CG and under the bay), some cross patching over the center, and some serious glass. I think my work is cut out for me

I can't wait to get the TL 50 done and built rite but the Zephr has me super excited and chomping at the bit to get into the air with all my gear.

Thanks again for stopping by and offering up some rock solid advice!
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Old May 26, 2011, 12:32 PM
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Loookin good Shane,do the weave and pu on the botttom before cutting,then it will keep you from doing a blow out,plus it will keep it true along the LE.
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Old May 27, 2011, 02:30 PM
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Here is a short vblog about my proposed layout and some questions.

TL50 VBlog 1.5 (2 min 46 sec)
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Old May 27, 2011, 08:13 PM
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still looking pretty good man.

you may want to lay the servos in place and the receiver battery aswell and do a preliminary balance point check. you may have to move the sevos all the way to the leading edge and maybe move the motor mount over the main spars to get the cg forward enough.

the airframe will move more tail heavy once you glass it also.

there is no right or wrong way to do the prop cutout- whatever you think looks good. the closer the prop is to the airframe the less eficient it will be and the LOUDER it will be.

another thing you may want to seperate the esc from the receiver and receiver battery as if it smokes you want to be able to land.

like chris says do a layer of glass + gorilla glue on the bottom, from the cg forward, so you can cut your equipment bay to the full depth so your esc fits.

(the other way is to cut all the foam out and put a coro floor in- less work but less good)

and you really want the glass layer done so you can cut the batterys in full depth

good luck!
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Old May 27, 2011, 08:29 PM
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I'll do a prelim check tonight with everything on it and see how it wants to behave.

I thought the motor mount goes over the back spar but you're saying it might have to go over the spar in the front as well to get the balance correct?

thanks again for stopping by and offering up advice!
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Old May 27, 2011, 09:49 PM
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i could be wrong on the motor mount thing- chris will let you know. you can snap the tabs off the front of the motor mount to get it to go further towards the nose aswell.

one other thing- the AR600 . . . i would be more comfortable with something like the AR7000. having the extra satelite receiver brings alot of peace of mind. you may be ok though

just so you know i have only been flying since december last year so i am a noob. but i have watched the build dvd's lots of times and have read alot of build threads. i have only built 2 wings though.

i know the AR500's are known to fail, and the AR7000's are basically known to be rock solid. not sure on the AR600.
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Old Jun 02, 2011, 10:51 AM
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The wing cores were finally joined over the weekend and and updated vblog is in the works. I want to setup my GoPro on a head band to keep it level and not moving around so much when changing hands to point at stuff

I still can't get all the orange out of the video but hopefully someone can provide me with some tips on how to achieve that and get better quality videos.

I talked to Chris on the phone over the weekend and it looks like I'll be replacing the 4 fiberglass 2mm rods with 4 carbon fiber rods instead to provide even more strength for this build. The rods should be delivered today so the build can resume.
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Old Jun 02, 2011, 10:56 AM
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No use the fg rods, and ad some cf rods or strip about the same size as the 22 glass ones over the internals top and bottom.
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Old Jun 02, 2011, 10:57 AM
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I'm going to draw up a diagram here in a bit of how the rods will go. I don't think the fg rods on the bottom can go under the battery bay because they'll consume 2mm of space. If I do the math 2mm fg spar on bottom, 21.5mm battery, and then 2mm for the top coro lid that's pushing it over 25mm total.

I could however run the fg rods the same as the top and have them stop at the outer perimeter of the battery bay thou.
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Old Jun 02, 2011, 04:56 PM
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Here's a new diagram showing off the spar locations once finished. I'm not sure if the new cf spars should go over the back main, front, or both. I'd guess just one or the other but hopefully CK can provide some input here.
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Old Jun 02, 2011, 07:01 PM
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Green rod directly over the top of the cf ones or close to it,otherwise it looks great.
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Old Jun 03, 2011, 09:21 AM
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Looks good Shane. I wonder if you could cut the bays all the way through, counter sink a coro bottom and then glass over the coro to add strength. Then you could achieve maximum depth for your battery bay. When I cut my bays out, sometimes I have a blow out and then the bottom gets mushy b/c it's too thin. with a coro bottom you wouldn't get mushy and wouldn't have to worry about a blow out. Just my thoughts.
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Old Jun 04, 2011, 07:57 PM
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looking good man! again i would recommend pu+ riteweave the bottom from cg forward befor you cut any bays out so you can go right against the floor with the batts
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