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Old Jan 28, 2012, 03:40 PM
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I flashed my board with XX15h, it would arm everytime I needed it to. Took it outside where it's ~50 degrees F and after a few minutes it would no longer arm. Took it back in the house and after a few minutes it started arming again.
Any ideas?
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 03:54 PM
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VA
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Timing is changing due to the temp most likely not the firmware. Raise your throttle trim two clicks above low and recalibrate. Then when you take it out in the cold lower your throttle trim all the way and see if it arms. If the esc doesn't have resonator or crytal clock the throttle range will change with temp. All atmel running on internal osc will change with temp including one on flight board.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdenton3 View Post
I flashed my board with XX15h, it would arm everytime I needed it to. Took it outside where it's ~50 degrees F and after a few minutes it would no longer arm. Took it back in the house and after a few minutes it started arming again.
Any ideas?
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Barton View Post
OK, regarding Rx/PPM options, there are some considerations:
Manufacturers have not standardised on only one sequence of the Rx channels
Some better Tx/Rx do allow this sequence to be user-changed, others do not...
I have catered for different sequences by allowing different eeProm hex files to be flashed after the main program flash.
This is straightforward using say a proper programmer, but, I'm not so sure what the options are when using the typical usb flash devices that abound.

Using a converter *does* allow more flexibility inthat you can set whatever sequence you want, but at the cost of more wires
I previously mentioned you need a 5+ channel RX, but I think in reality you need at least a 6 channel one (1 more than the number of channels you need).

I use a FrSky PPM Rx which outputs in Roll/Pitch/Coll/Yaw/Aux sequence and this will be the default channel sequence.
I will make available other eeProm hex files for the different channel sequences will be available.
Dumb question here... I have the FrSky V8FR 2.4Ghz 8CH Receiver (HV). Will this work?
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 04:18 PM
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I just tried that but still didn't work.
I even calibrated with min throttle @ -75%, lowered to -100%, still no good.
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 04:50 PM
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United States, NJ, Fair Lawn
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@Dan and @Mike,
Hmmm,
I experienced a weird situation with my tri (k.k 5.5e with h firmware. I posted couple of videos of me flying it yesterday(http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...92740&page=489, post #7332). When I got home I saw that my yaw servo (Metal gear one from HK, not the cheapest ones, $20) is not moving freely to one of the directions. I have opened it and one of the gears was stripped. No crash at all. In my pre-flight check it was moving freely with the Rx inputs.
Anyhow, I have another MG servo, from EMax, and I've put that one. No changes were made to any other component in the system.
I went out to try it, and suddenly everything is off. The model on my Tx is the right one, but my tri spins clockwise like crazy, What's happening is the tri needs a lot of yaw trim to right, which is OK to some extend, but now i need a lot of right roll trim and a lot of negative pitch.
What can cause this. With these corrections it flies almost as before. I've recalibrated the ESC, I have the board reset-ed, nothing changed, I still needed those adjustments.
I tried the TxStickAdj, but whatever value I put I don't see much difference in controlling the tri. I had -10 on yaw tx trim, and then +10 after that and nothing noticeable.

Any thoughts?
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 04:56 PM
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United States, NJ, Fair Lawn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdenton3 View Post
I flashed my board with XX15h, it would arm everytime I needed it to. Took it outside where it's ~50 degrees F and after a few minutes it would no longer arm. Took it back in the house and after a few minutes it started arming again.
Any ideas?
I am flying my k.k board on 25-30F and it works/arms fine. Only thing is my zip ties are too brittle and break easily on little rough landing. Emphasis on little rough. I am hovering mainly so I don't do any crazy stunts/crushes yet.

Try lowering the throttle trim, or recal the ESC.

Board off, set the full throttle with no positive or negative trim, connect the board, after the 2 or 3 beeps (depends on the ESC) lower the throttle stick, and wait for the long beep. Unplug the battery, and plug it again, but with the throttle on minimum.
If it doesn't arm, lower the trim a couple of clicks
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pajonate View Post
@Dan and @Mike,
Hmmm,
I experienced a weird situation with my tri (k.k 5.5e with h firmware. I posted couple of videos of me flying it yesterday(http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...92740&page=489, post #7332). When I got home I saw that my yaw servo (Metal gear one from HK, not the cheapest ones, $20) is not moving freely to one of the directions. I have opened it and one of the gears was stripped. No crash at all. In my pre-flight check it was moving freely with the Rx inputs.
Anyhow, I have another MG servo, from EMax, and I've put that one. No changes were made to any other component in the system.
I went out to try it, and suddenly everything is off. The model on my Tx is the right one, but my tri spins clockwise like crazy, What's happening is the tri needs a lot of yaw trim to right, which is OK to some extend, but now i need a lot of right roll trim and a lot of negative pitch.
What can cause this. With these corrections it flies almost as before. I've recalibrated the ESC, I have the board reset-ed, nothing changed, I still needed those adjustments.
I tried the TxStickAdj, but whatever value I put I don't see much difference in controlling the tri. I had -10 on yaw tx trim, and then +10 after that and nothing noticeable.

Any thoughts?
Yes - are servo directions consistent ?

I'm thinking your new servo works in the opposite direction to the previous one
Try reversing the Yaw gyro....
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdenton3 View Post
I flashed my board with XX15h, it would arm everytime I needed it to. Took it outside where it's ~50 degrees F and after a few minutes it would no longer arm. Took it back in the house and after a few minutes it started arming again.
Any ideas?
I'm assuming you mean that the board won't arm, rather than the ESC's bleeping.

The only thing stopping arming is the Yaw Stick arming point not being passed (unlikely) or Collective being above zero.
Easiest way to check this is to plug in lcd and look in Diagnostics/Rx/Collective & Yaw numbers (in []).
It's probably Collective, so just trim down a little on Collective so it goes below 0.
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 06:10 PM
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@Mike,
yes the servo movements are right. With all that trim on my Tx I am getting a stable flight, and moving the yaw stick to right, spins the tri CW, and vice versa, so reversing the servo is not needed.
Is there some programming trim on the board where I can adjust these settings, cause when I arm the board the yaw motor on my tri is level, not tilted at all. It needs trim as soon as I put the throttle on.
Also, why I needed to add roll trim where before that it flew level with no trim. Do I need to increase the roll/yaw gains maybe, cause I see no oscillations, but also no correction.

What do you think?

Oops, do you think I need to reverse the gyro direction on the Setup:Basic or Advanced? Hmmm, that might be it, but please, clarify was that what you had on mind.

Another thing, what is the difference between the hyster settings. I think mine is set to 0, and if I set it to 1 it is not flyable at all.
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 07:38 PM
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<oops> duplicate
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Last edited by Mike Barton; Jan 28, 2012 at 07:49 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pajonate View Post
@Mike,
yes the servo movements are right. With all that trim on my Tx I am getting a stable flight, and moving the yaw stick to right, spins the tri CW, and vice versa, so reversing the servo is not needed.
Is there some programming trim on the board where I can adjust these settings, cause when I arm the board the yaw motor on my tri is level, not tilted at all. It needs trim as soon as I put the throttle on.
Also, why I needed to add roll trim where before that it flew level with no trim. Do I need to increase the roll/yaw gains maybe, cause I see no oscillations, but also no correction.

What do you think?

Oops, do you think I need to reverse the gyro direction on the Setup:Basic or Advanced? Hmmm, that might be it, but please, clarify was that what you had on mind.

Another thing, what is the difference between the hyster settings. I think mine is set to 0, and if I set it to 1 it is not flyable at all.
OK, forget reversing of gyro

Theoretically, changing the servo should not affect the Roll trim.
Can you check that when you go into Diagnostics/Tx/Roll, that the nett output number (in []) is zero when centered ?
I'm suspecting that maybe temperature changes are causing it to generate a small trim adjustment by itself maybe.

Actually the hysteresis is quite important since it widens the TxStick centre point.
Alot of Tx sticks have poor mechanical links and releasing a stick will often result in a nett output when infact it should be 0.
So effectively it's like having small trim set (so causes drift) when you don't actually want it.
This could well be part of the problem.
I'm confused as to why it should make your copter un-flyable
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 02:42 AM
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Mike, someone else mentioned the temperature change might caused the change.
Regarding the hysteresis, when I had it at 1 it was sinning , so no lift off was attended, cause the tri left the ground spinning CW very fast and no yaw imput would correct that. I unplugged the tri, change the hyster to 0 and it worked fine, just with a lot of trim on my JR8303 yaw stick.
What the TxStick/TrimAdj is modifying? I had -10 and after that +10 on Yaw trim and I couldn't see any change. Now I have it at 0 to be on a safe side.

Also, do you recommend taking the tri out for some time before I power it up, to give the board elements accommodate the changed values?

Thx.
Pajo
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 04:23 AM
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Pajo
Quote:
Mike, someone else mentioned the temperature change might caused the change.
Regarding the hysteresis, when I had it at 1 it was sinning , so no lift off was attended, cause the tri left the ground spinning CW very fast and no yaw imput would correct that. I unplugged the tri, change the hyster to 0 and it worked fine, just with a lot of trim on my JR8303 yaw stick.
That is very strange
I still think it will work better with hyteresis enabled.
Quote:
What the TxStick/TrimAdj is modifying? I had -10 and after that +10 on Yaw trim and I couldn't see any change. Now I have it at 0 to be on a safe side.
The amount of adjustment is quite small, but is being applied
Quote:
Also, do you recommend taking the tri out for some time before I power it up, to give the board elements accommodate the changed values?
Certainly for gyros, letting them aclimatise before arming will reduce their subsequent drift.

If the Roll drift is being caused from a nett offset from the Rx in the FC (the oscillator runs faster due to temperature change), then you either need to do:
  • Re-do TxStick calibration in the menu when it has aclimatised
  • apply Roll TxStick adjust trim on Tx
  • apply Roll TxStick adjustment in menu Setup:Advanced/TxStick/TrimAdj/Roll

Mike
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Barton View Post
I'm assuming you mean that the board won't arm, rather than the ESC's bleeping.

The only thing stopping arming is the Yaw Stick arming point not being passed (unlikely) or Collective being above zero.
Easiest way to check this is to plug in lcd and look in Diagnostics/Rx/Collective & Yaw numbers (in []).
It's probably Collective, so just trim down a little on Collective so it goes below 0.
Got it working by resetting eeprom and re-cal'ing TX.

Couple of observations:
Could you blink the LED when switching between modes?
While hovering in stable mode I heard all motors momentarily cut-out intermittently, I never heard this in default mode.

Now waiting for calm enough winds to try some circuits.

Thank you Mike for this fw and your work on er9x!
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 01:31 PM
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Hi
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdenton3 View Post
Got it working by resetting eeprom and re-cal'ing TX.
You can re-do TxStick calibration any time - re-setting eeProm wipes out all your settings.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdenton3 View Post
Couple of observations:
Could you blink the LED when switching between modes?
While hovering in stable mode I heard all motors momentarily cut-out intermittently, I never heard this in default mode.
I don't see a problem with a momentary flash of the LED when switching modes.

Ah! so you found the line of code I left in saying: 'briefly stop motors in stable mode'

No seriously, it's almost certainly your Rx briefly dropping into failsafe mode.
My FrSky does it occasionally, but reconnects immediately (unlike my previous Spekrum did )

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdenton3 View Post
Thank you Mike for this fw and your work on er9x!
No problem on the XX firmware...
but er9x ? fraid you're confusing me with someone far more talented than moi
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