|May 17, 2011, 07:53 AM|
Cartoon Jets 1 plan, Two planes, twice the fun!
There has been about 10 guys waiting for this thread and I'm sorry it took so long. I just can't release a design not knowing if it will fly.
The design has flown and is into my flight test program now.
The plans and plastic parts are on the website now if you want to build along as I lay out the thread.
The cool part is when you buy the plans you are getting two versions of the same design a Cartoon Saber and a MIG.
For this reason you will need to buy the plastic parts separately.
This gives you and a buddy any combination of models to build.
On the site, go to short kits . . .kits with plans . .and you will find the plans with the plastic choices below them.
Better yet just punch in cartoon jets and the search box will take you to all your options.
|May 17, 2011, 07:54 AM|
Because this thread is about two planes I'll be color coding the instructions.
Titles in black apply to both models
Titles in blue apply to the saber
Titles in red apply to the MIG
|May 17, 2011, 07:55 AM|
what you will need
2 sheets of 3mm depron
1/8 sheet of 6mm depron
some 1/8 and 3/32 balsa 4"x 6" will be plenty.
card stock to make patterns one sheet of poster board will work.
Gorilla glue, the fast white stuff
2 micro servos
10 amp ESC
GWS 10x4 prop.
park flyer sized receiver
1800 KV motor or more
800 MAH three cell battery
|May 17, 2011, 08:00 AM|
After building a fanfold 1/4 scale P-40 I needed a break and discovered Fatty planes.
(I'm going with Cartoon jets to prevent sensitivity problems.)
The concept model was small, about 20 inch span and a flat wing with a flying stab. It flew for about 15 seconds and crashed . . . .6 times! But I knew it could be done if I had lighter equipment or a larger model.
The prototype kicked my butt for about 4 months.
On the first test flight I did 5 ovals, 3 figure eights then turned it into the wind ( 3 mph) to climb for a shot at light aerobatics. It stalled when I pulled the nose up and the more I tried to push the nose over the worse the nose up attitude got. She floated to the ground wings level and pancaked on the belly with no damage. On the next attempt a bad hand launch broke the motor mount. I'll get into how to hand launch a fat plane later.
The motor I was using was a homemade CD Rom and two blade prop.
I rebuilt the nose and fitted the plane with a Tower pro out runner and three blade prop. Turns out that my little CD Rom motor was lighter and put out about as much thrust. I'd guess I tried to fly the plane 10 times , breaking props, patching Depron and changing CG in-between attempts.
It still pitched nose up and floated to the ground. I thought it was the shape of the exhaust nozzle so I broke the tail bonds to make it a straight tube. . . .no good.
The prototype was so beat up I salvaged the equipment for Saber #1.
There it sat in the shop garbage can waiting to be collected. But wait, it has one more mission. Verify the CG as a chuck glider. I taped up the nose packed in clay and went out into the yard. First try with a good push and it flew across the backyard and actually did a belly landing.
It was a thrust issue . . .not enough. A 1300 KV motor will not work.
Saber #1 was fitted with a stronger out runner and it did great.
Time to get out the paint!
|May 17, 2011, 08:02 AM|
So.............. should I continue or wait a week or two for some of you to receive the plans?
I run very descriptive threads so you should be able to keep up.
Here are a few links to the others so you know I won't leave you hanging
|May 17, 2011, 05:41 PM|
So let's build a cartoon Jet
You start with a 3mm depron tube. The best way to keep from screwing it up is to cut a corner off the sheet to see which direction the grain runs, yes there is a grain.
Roll the sheet around a paper tube or a 3 inch PVC pipe and wrap it with sandwich wrap or tape to hold it. Give it a day to set and when you release it, it will stay rolled.
Now would be a good time to make the patterns. Use spray adhesive to attach the patterns to a poster board and cut them out.
Place the sheet on the cutting table unrolled and put the pattern over it; use a sharp hobby knife to cut the fuselage tube and don't forget to make the marks for the wing placement.
Note the MIG has different cuts at the rear, the pattern is marked in red
Work steady and don't take a break. The foam is remembering what it's like to be flat the longer you take the flatter the sheet will get.
|May 17, 2011, 05:43 PM|
Apply tape to the deep cuts to prevent them from trying to split while you are working.
Apply glue in-between the wing marks and tape them together. this is a straight bond and should be very easy. if you have to push the seam inward while you apply the tape so there is no pucker, you are looking for a nice round tube. let it dry completely.
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