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Old May 16, 2011, 04:48 AM
Homo Modelicus
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Hungary
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Build Log
Peter Rakes's DFW-C.V 2nd prototype

Hi all,

I'm the second builder of this prototype. I received the package two weeks ago but I opened it just in the last week.

So my "mission" is only that I have to build this model as there is on the plan. I'm in the finish with my Horvath's monoplane so I had time to start paralel this build. Csherman introduced this airplane in his Build Log, so I skip the intruduction of the type. I will build the covered engine version. And I've chosen this painting scheme below.

..in medias res...

I started the assembly with the lower wings. The construction went fast. I bought four sets of 3x6 and 3x5 pinewood for the spars instead of brass because it is not available here. I sanded down the connection points then I assambled the outer rings. In the next step I have to enlarge the rear spar hole because the 3x5 pinewood was a little bit larger than the recommended 1/8x3/16. I had "problem" only with the R6B ribs. I tapered the end of the spar but it wasn't enough so I had to cut out a small piece from the spar. The front of these spars also wasn't fit. Anyway I resolved these problems fast. I lenghtened the locating dovels to the R2B rib. I think this will be stronger. I covered the top of the R1B and R2B with 1,5 balsa. finally I fixed the leading edge.

The construction of the upper wings was the same. Today I will glue into the ribs.

Balazs
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Old May 16, 2011, 02:34 PM
What's 3D?
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Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
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Wow, side by side prototype builds, should be good to see different approaches to the build. Will be tagging along for the ride.

Craig
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Old May 16, 2011, 03:07 PM
Registered User
Norfolk, England
Joined Sep 2001
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Balazs,
Coming along nicely, although the wings would be a lot stronger with leading edges. Sorry, sometimes I just can't help myself.

It will be nice to compare the different approaches to the same model.

Pete
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Old May 17, 2011, 03:52 AM
Homo Modelicus
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Hungary
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686 Posts
It was funny Pete

Yesterday I assembled almost the entire upper wings. Only the two ailerons and the leading edges remains for today.

The parts of the the upper wing was perfect and fitted well.

The trailing edges of the lower wing was a little smaller than the plan (1-1.5mm). I think this type of wood shrinks during the laser cut.

Balazs
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Old May 17, 2011, 06:15 AM
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Norfolk, England
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Balazs,
It's the sharp angles at the end that cause that. Not much that can be done about it I'm afraid - other than cut the parts by hand. Even then, there's no guarantee of greater accuracy.

Pete
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Old May 17, 2011, 06:32 AM
Homo Modelicus
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Hungary
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Pete,

I understand this and don't worry about this it's a small thing, not a major problem. Both trailing edge are the same sized.

Balazs
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Old May 17, 2011, 01:44 PM
Homo Modelicus
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Today I've finished the upper wings. After both dry, will be ready to sand + the lower two. Every parts fit perfectly!

Last friday I started the assembly with the fuse. I constructed only the two sides (with inner plates) and the main front frame. Now I will continue the build with the fuse.

Balazs
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Old May 18, 2011, 02:45 PM
Homo Modelicus
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A little update.

Pete I modified a little on the side of the fuselage. I shifted up with 1,5mm of the bottom (1,5x3mm) strips and I glued some cross strips between the sides. The long strip and the cross strips will hold the bottom sheet. What do you think?

I have to fill with balsa block between the fuse frame F5 and F7?

Balazs
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Old May 18, 2011, 05:09 PM
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Balazs,
Okay on the fuselage mod, but watch the weight of the sheet you use. Moving the longerons up was a good move, but I think the cross braces just add weight where you don't want it. Since the bottom sheet is supposed to go in with the grain across the fuselage, I don't see that the braces serve much purpose.

Why would you add block between those formers? Or do you mean around the gun ring? If so, see what I said about that in the other thread. It's supposed to be sheeted, and I'm sure it can be sheeted if you're careful. However, if you're happier adding block, and hollowing out the resulting shapes, go that route. I feel there's already more than enough weight at the rear, without adding to it.
It's a fairly small model, so weight is always going to be the enemy.

Pete
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Old May 19, 2011, 12:56 AM
Homo Modelicus
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Pete,

The weight of the cross braces was approximately 1g. Maximum. I used light 3mm sheet. It helped me to made a square shape fuse. Yesterday I made a template bottom sheet. I made it from one piece and from light 1.5mm balsa sheet. I could easily bend and was strong but it wasn’t grain across. You suggest to me that I make the bottom from three or four grain cross sheets?

Yes I mean around the gun ring. But I think you are right it is possible to make it from sheet. I will make a template today afternoon.

Thanks!
Balazs
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Old May 19, 2011, 02:22 AM
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It's stronger with the lower sheeting cross grain, but it's up to you. Your cross braces should take the crushing loads caused by handling.

Pete
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Old May 19, 2011, 02:27 AM
Homo Modelicus
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Yes I can agree with you (about the crushing loads).

Will you modify the plan (moving the longerons up)?

Balazs
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Old May 19, 2011, 03:18 PM
Homo Modelicus
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Observer cockpit.

Sorry Pete but this was the max what I was able to bring out from this with my experience. This was your concept? Tomorrow after the paste dry I will send down the overflow.

Balazs
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Old May 19, 2011, 07:34 PM
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No, that's not the shape it should be at all. It should be moulded around the gun ring, and over the formers. There is a section shown on the plan, indicating that the sides are vertical between the top of the fuselage side and the gun ring. I deliberately made the gun ring in two parts so the sheeting could be moulded to the first part, the one with the tabs, and the final gun ring glued on after any filling/sanding was done.
I mentioned making the sheet sections that much longer than you've used to allow that moulding to shape - and the use of paper patterns to get the shape right.

If you imagine using filler to blend the circle of the gun ring into what you have there, you need much more than you've used because it all has to blend smoothly from that first ring to the formers either side to simulate the moulded ply decking of the original.

Pete
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Old May 19, 2011, 10:02 PM
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I found this image on Google. It's not an easy feature to see in any picture I can find.

Hugh
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