Originally Posted by AndyKunz

It was saying "The receiver hears the tx fine" (that's the full set of bars) and "The transmitter isn't hearing the TM1000 very well" (the flashing).

This is usually due to the antenna orientation of the TM1000 to the tx.

Unless you were using a TM1100 - they only have about 400' range or so.

Andy

Ok, it must be the antenna orientation then. I thought I had it running down the tail end of the fuselage, but I'll double check it tonight.

I was over 1900' above me this weekend, with the antenna straight out the back of the plane, and had perfect telemetry status. My tx antenna was horizontal too.

Andy

Originally Posted by AndyKunz

I was over 1900' above me this weekend, with the antenna straight out the back of the plane, and had perfect telemetry status. My tx antenna was horizontal too.

Andy

DX8?
Yeah thats up there.My eyes arent what they used to be.At 1500 Im kind of struggling to maintain orientation.I get into that realm where you dont fly by actually seeing the outline of the model but more of how the dot acts as you input control.

Yup, DX8. It was a 40-sized Kaos. And it was the tiniest spec, but the sky was perfect for it - solid white overcast.

Andy

Originally Posted by AndyKunz

Yup, DX8. It was a 40-sized Kaos. And it was the tiniest spec, but the sky was perfect for it - solid white overcast.

Andy

That makes a huge difference for me as well.Its when its mostly blue with wispy clouds around that I have the most trouble.Last time I was that high I kept going into and out of the clouds and it was rather unnerving when the speck completely disappeared from time to time.
I generally dont have a reason to go that high unless Im flying the Radian in a huge thermal.Im going to add some red under the wings.That should help.

Hello all, I love my new radio... it's replacing my complete POS Airtronics RDS8000
(You get what you pay for )

I would like to know more about what I believe is a screw adjustable self centering option for the left gimbal (throttle)
I'm a model boater & a self centered throttle is desirable in model warship combat.
I have read that the "M" adjustment in the left rear of the radio will cause the throttle to self center via spring adjustment... is this correct?
I've gone in and made my throttles centering on many other radios in the past, I was just wondering of I was dreaming or is it actually just a screw turn away on this fine radio.

Thank you for any advice or help.
Harry

Originally Posted by HorribleHarry

Hello all, I love my new radio... it's replacing my complete POS Airtronics RDS8000
(You get what you pay for )

I would like to know more about what I believe is a screw adjustable self centering option for the left gimbal (throttle)
I'm a model boater & a self centered throttle is desirable in model warship combat.
I have read that the "M" adjustment in the left rear of the radio will cause the throttle to self center via spring adjustment... is this correct?
I've gone in and made my throttles centering on many other radios in the past, I was just wondering of I was dreaming or is it actually just a screw turn away on this fine radio.

Thank you for any advice or help.
Harry

Yes it is a dream that has come true.Like the manual says too tight can damage the mechanism and too loose can let a spring fall off.My advise the first time you do it is to peel the grips off and carefully remove the back.Familarize yourself with the gimbal mechanism and how it works.Do the adjustments while you are watching what is going on and remove the travel stops if you think you might need equal travel on both sticks.Maybe dual motors.
Then in the future when you make adjustments you will have an idea what is going on and how much force/travel is necessary to get what you want without seeing it.

Thank you for the sound advice... I will indeed carefully remove the back tomorrow & get to know the insides a bit, then make my adjustments.
Besides... it will give me a chance to look at the display mounting, you never know when a nice backlight might come in handy!

Harry

Here is what you can expect, this is my DX8 but it should be almost identical if you have the Dx7s. If you mess up the adhesive you can use this, works as good as OEM stuff.

HH-read the info on changing modes - it describes the stick adjustment you need to center / remove center on either stick.
And yes it is EZ- I have done mode changes on these .

Hey just a few quick questions:

I lost my plane over the weekend (it began with 5 bars, then 4) - then 5, then it went down to 1-2 bars where I tried to bring it back and lost it. Then I was at a different field and had no problems, but the receiver did flash 5 bars then 1 bar then 5 then 1. It was strange. I have the receiver installed stock in the Radian (AR600 with the 90D angle) and then the TM 1000 is also flat line one way and curved the others. It seems like the plane responded everywhere except one park which I believe has interference. Any ideas?

2) How do I read the range check numbers? I see the holds -- but does anyone have a link to a guide explaining what I am seeing with my telemetry unit -- what I should be watching -- what the letters mean and the increasing numbers) Whats ok and whats not? The Spektrum manual only mentions one quick thing about hold in one sentence -- not very helpful.

THANKS!

The telemetry range is different than the receiver range.

Originally Posted by divashenko

... Whats ok and whats not? The Spektrum manual only mentions one quick thing about hold in one sentence -- not very helpful. THANKS!

0 - Holds = GOOD
1 or more Holds = BAD.

A - Antenna fades on internal antenna A
B - Antenna fades on internal antenna B (not used on the AR8000)
L - Antenna fades on the left external antenna
R - Antenna fades on the right external antenna (not used on the AR8000)
F - Frame loss
H - Holds

Antenna fades—represents the loss of a bit of information on that specific antenna. It’s normal to have as many as 50 to 100 antenna fades during a flight. If any single antenna experiences over 500 fades in a single flight, the antenna should be repositioned in the aircraft to optimize the RF link.

Frame loss—represents simultaneous antenna fades on all attached receivers. If the RF link is performing optimally, frame losses per flight should be less than 20.

A Hold- occurs when 45 continuous frame losses occur. This takes about one second. If a hold occurs during a flight, it’s important to re-evaluate the system, moving the antennas to different locations and/or checking to be sure the transmitter and receivers are all working correctly.

Thank you freechip. This is very interesting.

So i should be able to do a range check at 30 paces with 0 holds. If this is accomplished then the antenna is situated correctly I am guessing. I got this Radian RTF so antenna came pre-installed. Do you think that they check these before selling?

Would the area you fly affect the range check? It seems that it was much worse at one park where I flew compared to another.

If you can find a buddy or a helper with the range testing the best way to do it would be to hold the plane above your head and move it around simulating a flight. If range test checks out then you're good to go BUT of course if during a full normal flight you get a hold or high numbers then you may want to try different position.

Like you said I too have a Radian (PRO) and the main receiver (AR6200) in in the stock location but I chose to install the sat in the belly of the RP flush mounted in the foam so that when I fly High above me at least the SAT RX as a clear line of sight to the TX. My numbers are almost always 0 or low enought to not be of any concern.