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Old Aug 18, 2003, 10:50 PM
Real men fly scale planes
Mad_Duk's Avatar
Port Richey/Tampa, Florida
Joined Aug 2003
157 Posts
Question
cox 074 queen bee?

i am building a guillows giant scale stuka, (see my posted pics)

I plan on useing a queen-bee, my more experienced RC friends tell me the cox engine stinks and i need a norvell. Can someone make me fell better about this?

crying the blues in florida,
Paul "Mad-Duk" Mapes Jr.
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Old Aug 19, 2003, 03:40 AM
Voices through wires? Ha!
Chas's Avatar
Joined Feb 2003
1,659 Posts
Non-Odiferous Machinery

Paul the Queen Bee is fine but won't have the slog of a Norvel - it will like faster-revving props. I see your engine has the head to accept a standard plug - this could be a way to alter the compression ratio, perhaps favourably, and it's a point to check if you experience problems.
Also an inverted engine like yours will need careful plumbing if you're to use an external tank. The old dodge of filling the Cox tank, then attaching a larger external one to the vent will only work if the plumbing has not been transposed when inverting the tank/mount of the Cox.
Also got the silencer on there - ah well might as well throw in all the complications! Don't try muffler pressure (qv) though!
Good luck
Chas
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Last edited by Chas; Aug 19, 2003 at 03:48 AM.
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Old Aug 19, 2003, 09:18 PM
Real men fly scale planes
Mad_Duk's Avatar
Port Richey/Tampa, Florida
Joined Aug 2003
157 Posts
queen-bee !

Ok, the queen bee is unlike any other cox motor, it has a real carb with throttle, and a muffler as you can see, it has no built-in tank like the .020's and .049's.

since it has a "genuine" carb, i had planned on useing a reg sullivan 1oz tank,(with pressure fitting on muff)

the glow-plug is decieving, the .074 queen-bee uses its own "odd-ball" sized plug, that looks like a reg. one in pictures, but from what i'm told i need to buy replacement ones strait from cox.

thanx for the words of encouragement,
Paul "Mad-Duk" Mapes Jr.
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Old Aug 19, 2003, 09:30 PM
Voices through wires? Ha!
Chas's Avatar
Joined Feb 2003
1,659 Posts
Ooops sorry Paul! When looking at the first picture, I saw the circular ply across the firewall hole, and mistook it for a base of the Cox backplate. I thought you had intended to use the backplate type mount with tank. Duuhh.
Also, I didn't know the Cox needed special Cox plugs, so my comment about compression ratios is about as useful as a chocolate firesecreen. That's the beauty of the 'net for information, just ask and you'll get all the duff gen you could never want!
Cheers
Chas
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Old Aug 29, 2003, 11:27 AM
Heli Bouncer
Looooeeee!'s Avatar
At the Discount Clambake
Joined Feb 2001
3,932 Posts
I own one.

Some tips, don't expect a lot of power, they like to rev a little but will tolerate a 7" prop fine. Cox recommends a 6X4, but I've used a Cox grey 7X3.5 prop and it works fine. Tapping for muffler pressure works, though there is little pressure available, it does make the runs more stable. I'd try it

Starting can be a little tricky, as they will be sometimes like all Cox reed-valve engines, like to change directions when attempting to start when really rich. If you can use an electric starter, (really carefully, as they have plain aluminum bushings and a plastic thrust washer, I'd blip the starter on the spinner while just lightly choking the engine. If you have the muffler pressure tap set up, just plug the exhaust opening during the blips, you'll see the fuel go through the fuel line into the engine and it should start as soon as the fuel reaches the spray bar. I'd also turn the engine upright when starting, they tend to flood and hydrolock when inverted. Since Cox no longer makes these you should be careful with too much fuel in the engine when inverted. *Always have a fully charged glow battery.*

I've used the short length, regular R/C idle bar glow plug without any trouble, but always check the clearance between piston and the plug before turning the engine over though, as some glow plugs have deeper idle bars than others. They tend to idle a bit on the high RPM side, and I'd run at least 10% nitro, 15% is better. A little higher percentage of castor is helpful too. They, like the smaller reed valve engines, really should have straight castor, but a castor rich blend works for me.
I'd add about 4 0z. of castor oil from the pharmacy section of Safeway or Wallyworld for each gallon of new castor blend fuel like Powermaster or Sig, for any of the small Cox lapped piston engines. Helps keep them alive and around a little longer.

I like mine, good reliability if you can tolerate an occaisional reversing of the engine on start up.

I used to get about 20 minute runs from mine on a 2 oz. tank flying a really heavy 37oz. trainer.

looee
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Last edited by Looooeeee!; Aug 29, 2003 at 11:31 AM.
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