Originally Posted by Vortex000111

hello everyone,
I have a UM Corsair as my first plane and was wondering whether it would be possible to attach fatshark FPV equipment onto the nose so i could enjoy flying my plane even more.
thanks.

Need a lot more info. I assume you're talking 5.8GHz, or some other band besides 2.4GHz? What's the total weight of the airborne package - including the battery?

Joel

Originally Posted by Stuart Linfoot

so when the new parts arrive, I should lay the wing out on the floor, stomp on it a few times to be sure I get some good cracks in it, then CA it back together and presto ...my new plane will be balanced?

somehow in my demented mind, I like that idea, that's almost as good as blowing it out of the air with a paint ball gun, that's what my nephew wants to do ...... I should clerifie though, shooting it down with a paint ball gun is NOT going to happen

actually that would be a fun game. Give your nephew about 50 paintballs and he can be the anit aircrat guns. You have to safely fly in the air for two minutes and when the time is up you win or when he is out of paintballs. Just by some wings and everything will be just fine. Yeah like I said i would just attatch the wings first and then see if it tail heavy. But you may not even need to attach a dime. A 250mah battery might just do the trick. Plus you will have longer run times with a perfectly balanced out plane.

Originally Posted by Stunt Man 169

actually that would be a fun game. Give your nephew about 50 paintballs and he can be the anit aircrat guns. You have to safely fly in the air for two minutes and when the time is up you win or when he is out of paintballs. Just by some wings and everything will be just fine. Yeah like I said i would just attatch the wings first and then see if it tail heavy. But you may not even need to attach a dime. A 250mah battery might just do the trick. Plus you will have longer run times with a perfectly balanced out plane.

we got some old beater planes were going to do it with this coming weekend, (if we don't get rained out) 3 slow sticks, and an old sig bristal scout biplane, I think we're going to have about 8 kids on hand to do the shooting, and I live on some acreage, so we got plenty of space

A club I used to be in once had a fun-fly where one of the competitions was paintball target-practice - with a twist. We set up semi-auto paintball guns for the spectators to shoot. The target was a Coroplast 40-size trainer, which was essentially indestructible. We had experimented with a balsa & film trainer, but found that even one paintball could cause some serious damage - so we went with the Coroplast trainer. Each pilot made one pass. We entered the 'hit-box' in level flight, and were then free to use evasive maneuvers. But the plane had to remain in the box, and reversing flight-direction was prohibited. The shooters were allowed to shoot only when the plane was in the box. The hit counters compared notes, tallied-up the hits, and the pilot with the fewest hits was declared the winner. The plane was the prize! We advertised the event well in advance. As you might imagine, we had a great turnout! By the end of the day, the plane had taken so many hits, it looked like a tie-dyed T-shirt! Or the Day-Glo Nash Rambler a buddy of mine drove back in high-school! Was an absolute blast for everyone, and the fun-fly exposed more people to RC that day than any event we ever hosted!

Joel

Just got this plane yesterday, had a rather, hectic maiden today.
The problem is that the throttle cuts out after a few seconds whenever it is flying. At first I thought it was the battery, and changed battery's, but it still persisted. Upon further inspection, the throttle will cut out after about 10 seconds, and the red light will flash repeatedly for about 5 seconds, and then go back to normal. The controls still work during this.
I have no idea what is going on, everything else works fine. Any ideas's?
Yes these are fully charged batteries fresh off the charger, it has this problem right away.

Originally Posted by bad_at_airplanes

Just got this plane yesterday, had a rather, hectic maiden today.
The problem is that the throttle cuts out after a few seconds whenever it is flying. At first I thought it was the battery, and changed battery's, but it still persisted. Upon further inspection, the throttle will cut out after about 10 seconds, and the red light will flash repeatedly for about 5 seconds, and then go back to normal. The controls still work during this.
I have no idea what is going on, everything else works fine. Any ideas's?
Yes these are fully charged batteries fresh off the charger, it has this problem right away.

Which batteries are you using?

Joel

Originally Posted by turboparker

Which batteries are you using?

Joel

The default battery that came with the plane, the other I borrowed from a friend with another Corsair. He is stumped as well.

Originally Posted by bad_at_airplanes

The default battery that came with the plane, the other I borrowed from a friend with another Corsair. He is stumped as well.

Hey did you try to re-bind the aircraft? Also what transmitter are you using?Try this a couple times and try some diffrent batteries. If this doesn't work then you have a faulty ESC. Just call parkzone and see if they can do anything about it. It could just be a bad plane in the batch. They might send you a new ESC for free.

Originally Posted by Stunt Man 169

Hey did you try to re-bind the aircraft? Also what transmitter are you using?Try this a couple times and try some diffrent batteries. If this doesn't work then you have a faulty ESC. Just call parkzone and see if they can do anything about it. It could just be a bad plane in the batch. They might send you a new ESC for free.

I have the RTF version, so the included transmitter. I'll try rebinding and see if I can't get some different battery's, and try again tonight.

Originally Posted by bad_at_airplanes

I have the RTF version, so the included transmitter. I'll try rebinding and see if I can't get some different battery's, and try again tonight.

Poorly-performing batteries often cause motor pulsing (LVC) and/or motor cutouts early into the flight. If possible, try to find a good-quality 150 mAh or larger battery with a true 25c discharge rating - such as a Hyperion 160, Thunder Power 160, or MA 190 mAh 'UM' cell. The stock batteries are extremely poor performers. Also - most "bargain" batteries perform extremely poorly (often, not at all) in these high-current apps.

Joel

Originally Posted by turboparker

Poorly-performing batteries often cause motor pulsing (LVC) and/or motor cutouts early into the flight. If possible, try to find a good-quality 150 mAh or larger battery with a true 25c discharge rating - such as a Hyperion 160, Thunder Power 160, or MA 190 mAh 'UM' cell. The stock batteries are extremely poor performers. Also - most "bargain" batteries perform extremely poorly (often, not at all) in these high-current apps.

Joel

I did not know that. I thought that the inlcuded batteries were decent. So if I purchase any of the batteries you just listed, do you think that I will get better performance? Also how much longer does a 250mah battery last?

Originally Posted by Stunt Man 169

I did not know that. I thought that the inlcuded batteries were decent. So if I purchase any of the batteries you just listed, do you think that I will get better performance? Also how much longer does a 250mah battery last?

Yup - the factory batteries are crap. They sag under load, and they fade away after just 30-50 cycles. Plus, they cost more than the high-performance cells! Provided that there is nothing wrong with the motor or brick, you will definitely get better performance than the stock cell with the Hyperion 160. You'll get even more performance if you go with the larger Hyp 180 or 240 mAh cells. However, the stock prop is very inefficient. A GWS 5043 prop w/adapter will turn it into a completely different plane - especially with good batteries.

Flight-time with the Hyp 240 mAh cell will be ~50% longer than the Hyp 160 mAh cell. BTW - many of the F4Us are tail-heavy. If yours is tail-heavy, a Hyp 240 'M' cell mounted at the front of the battery tray will solve the problem without adding undesirable dead-weight.

Here's one of my performance demos with the GWS 5043 prop & a Hyperion 240 mAh cell:

Flying Park Zone's UM Corsair in my yard (6 min 33 sec)

Joel

Wow. That was really good. The plane looked like it had so much more performance. My plane was not tail heavy out of the box so I guess if I was to use a 240mah battery I should just put in the middle of the slot. Are the E-Flite batteies any good or are they just the same as the Hobbyzone ones with just a different label? Thanks for all if your help.

Originally Posted by Stunt Man 169

Wow. That was really good. The plane looked like it had so much more performance. My plane was not tail heavy out of the box so I guess if I was to use a 240mah battery I should just put in the middle of the slot. Are the E-Flite batteies any good or are they just the same as the Hobbyzone ones with just a different label? Thanks for all if your help.

Stunt Man,

Thanks! She sure is a lot more fun with good batteries & a 5043 prop. She performs like an air-superiority fighter is supposed to perform. The full-scale F4U was a serious hot-rod, as were the other ultra-high-performance fighters of the day - such as the P-47, Spitfire, Mosquito, P-38, P-51, and FW-190. These were not lumbering planes. They were hopped-up, fire-breathing, earth-shaking hot-rods. The Bugattis & Ferraris of the air!

Regarding battery placement - there is an old saying - 'a nose-heavy plane may fly poorly, but a tail-heavy plane may fly only once.' I'd start with the Hyp 240 a bit forward & and sneak-up on the sweet-spot by moving the CG slowly aft. If the plane requires up-elevator to fly level when upright, it's still nose-heavy. If the nose drops like a rock in turns or when you cut the power, it's nose-heavy. When the CG is in the right spot, you should be able to trim for level flight @ 80% throttle, roll inverted, and only a small amount of down-elevator should be required for level inverted flight. Also, the nose will only drop slightly when power is cut, and the plane will be able to fly much more slowly. If the CG is too far aft, down-elevator will be required for level upright flight, the plane will tend to climb when rolled inverted, and it will tend to balloon when power is cut on approach. It will be overly pitch-sensitive, and will also be very 'darty' in turbulence.

If you don't need the nose-weight, you could use the Hyp 180. If you fly in really tight quarters or indoors, the extra weight of the 240 may be noticeable. The Hyp 180 provides the same power as the Hyp 240 in this app.

I haven't tried Eflite's new 150 mAh 25c replacement for their old 150 mAh 12c cell. I have read that they provide more power that Eflite's older 150. But I've also read that cycle-life isn't so great. The HobbyZone & ParkZone UM cells perform even worse than the older Eflite 150.

True c-rating is the important thing when it comes to LiPo performance. C-rating is a function of the cell's internal resistance. The lower the internal resistance, the higher the true c-rating. Internal resistance determines how well the battery will maintain voltage under load. W=V^2/R, which means that a small increase in voltage will provide a large increase in power. Unfortunately, many LiPo manufacturers lie about c-ratings. Most of the companies that make the cheap Chinese packs are notorious for grossly exaggerating c-ratings. Companies such as Hyperion & Thunderpower have been long-noted for rating their LiPos honestly. All Hyperion & Thunder Power LiPos can be safely charged at 5c for 300+ cycles without losing performance. That means 12-15 minute charges. The latest Thunder Power 65c packs can be charged at 12c for 600+ cycles without losing performance. That means 7-minute charges, with an appropriate charger! Also, both companies actually provide warranties with their LiPos. If they fade away or fail early, both companies will stand behind their products & make it right. Also, both companies have crash-replacement warranties, where they cover part of the pack replacement cost in a crash. This is a very big plus for those who fly larger electric planes & helis that require large, expensive packs.

Joel

Originally Posted by bad_at_airplanes

Just got this plane yesterday, had a rather, hectic maiden today.
The problem is that the throttle cuts out after a few seconds whenever it is flying. At first I thought it was the battery, and changed battery's, but it still persisted. Upon further inspection, the throttle will cut out after about 10 seconds, and the red light will flash repeatedly for about 5 seconds, and then go back to normal. The controls still work during this.
I have no idea what is going on, everything else works fine. Any ideas's?
Yes these are fully charged batteries fresh off the charger, it has this problem right away.

Hey bad, I had the same problem with mine right out of the box. (See post http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=765 page 51.)
I just received my two Thunder Power 1s 25c 160mAh in the mail and tried them in my Corsair and Champ. (Champ was having the same issuse) Both planes ran and operated beautifully at WOT. So, the first calm day we get, I'll be taking them out to play. I miss my Champ. (Sorry if this pic is off thread.)