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Old Feb 21, 2012, 09:02 PM
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Brushless UM Corsair

Here is a picture of the interior of my UM Corsair after the brushless 2S mod. One battery goes in the original spot and another under the top half of the fuselage wired for 7.4v. It will fly slow, lands as well as original and if I want WOT makes for some very fun flying. AUW (with two 1S Hyperion 240 batteries) is 62g. I fly her inside a double gym and outside and it is a blast. Everything fits, you just have to be sure nothing is binding the servos or control rods.

Allan
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Last edited by swimmer; Feb 21, 2012 at 09:14 PM.
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 11:56 AM
Tossing planes into the snow
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I like that! I've got an EFlite 180BL motor that came out of the SBach, (8 grams with adaptor but not prop). I also picked up an EFlite 5 amp esc to go with it (7 grams). Is that motor you are using similar in size? That esc looks quite a bit bigger than mine.
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Jovanx View Post
I like that! I've got an EFlite 180BL motor that came out of the SBach, (8 grams with adaptor but not prop). I also picked up an EFlite 5 amp esc to go with it (7 grams). Is that motor you are using similar in size? That esc looks quite a bit bigger than mine.
Motor is a HobbyKing AP05 and ESC is a Thunderbird 6.

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=9662

So what do you think your total weight will be after the mod?
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 11:17 PM
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Does anyone know how to reprogram the board so that you can use the aileron servos independently and program flaps?
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by rclayton View Post
Does anyone know how to reprogram the board so that you can use the aileron servos independently and program flaps?
I don't remember how to do it, but the procedure is in the brick manual, which is available on Spektrum's website.

BTW - the last thing you want on this plane is flaperons. Spoilerons maybe, but definitely not flaperons. Deploying flaperons will decrease the critical AoA & increase the tendency for tip-stalls, which decreases low-speed maneuverability. Pretty much the opposite of what you want. Spoilerons actually help low-speed maneuverability because they decrease the tendency for tip-stalls and increase the critical AoA.

Joel
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 12:00 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
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Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
So what do you think your total weight will be after the mod?
Assuming one gram for a balsa motor mount, It would gain 3 grams on the motor and mount, and then another 7 for the esc. It would be possible to drop a little weight by cutting the wires shorter and using solder joints instead of connectors. After that it is all up to the battery. If you use 2 separate batteries, do you still need the diode to step the voltage down for the receiver, or does it run off just one of them?
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 02:37 PM
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Assuming one gram for a balsa motor mount, It would gain 3 grams on the motor and mount, and then another 7 for the esc. It would be possible to drop a little weight by cutting the wires shorter and using solder joints instead of connectors. After that it is all up to the battery. If you use 2 separate batteries, do you still need the diode to step the voltage down for the receiver, or does it run off just one of them?
The brick gets it's voltage from the onboard BEC on the ESC. The diode with a .7 volt drop is used to reduce the 5.0 volt BEC voltage to 4.3 volts. The brick would not handle 5 volts.

You could leave the diode out and use one of the batteries that are in series to power the brick by attaching a connector between the two series batteries. The current draw would be greater in this battery. Go with the diode. It's simpler and more predictable.

My 2S brushless T28 went from 41 grams to 58 with the extra battery, esc and motor weight.
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Jovanx View Post
Assuming one gram for a balsa motor mount, It would gain 3 grams on the motor and mount, and then another 7 for the esc. It would be possible to drop a little weight by cutting the wires shorter and using solder joints instead of connectors. After that it is all up to the battery. If you use 2 separate batteries, do you still need the diode to step the voltage down for the receiver, or does it run off just one of them?
Use the diode. It is cheap and a very simple installation.
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 07:07 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
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I was hoping to weasel out of the diode thing because there is no place in town that sells electronic components. I do actually have a few that I could scrounge off some scrap circuit boards but I don't know how to test them to see if they are the right size. Guess I'll have to order one from somewhere. Couldn't you use a resistor instead?

Today a crust formed on the snow that is about the consistency of rough pavement. I tried a bunch of landings with the Corsair and most of them ended up with nose-overs. I made a set of quick and dirty wheels out of EPP foam 1-1/4" in diameter and they work great! They look big but not ridiculously so, and they completely solved the nose-over problem. I ran 2 batteries through, and must have done at least 30 landings and it remained upright on all of them.
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Jovanx View Post
I was hoping to weasel out of the diode thing because there is no place in town that sells electronic components. I do actually have a few that I could scrounge off some scrap circuit boards but I don't know how to test them to see if they are the right size. Guess I'll have to order one from somewhere. Couldn't you use a resistor instead?

Today a crust formed on the snow that is about the consistency of rough pavement. I tried a bunch of landings with the Corsair and most of them ended up with nose-overs. I made a set of quick and dirty wheels out of EPP foam 1-1/4" in diameter and they work great! They look big but not ridiculously so, and they completely solved the nose-over problem. I ran 2 batteries through, and must have done at least 30 landings and it remained upright on all of them.
Almost any diode will work. Use a multimeter on the ohms scale. It should have a very small resistance in one direction and a very large resistance in the other direction. If resistances are both large or both small it's no good, either shorted or open circuit.
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 06:07 PM
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Swimmer, nice to see you have the crack in the wing in the EXACT same place mine broke (and broke again about 4 more times). Finally learned to fly this bird and stopped crashing. Had a great flight today in variable winds probably 3-7 gusting to 12. Just using the "dime mod" and Hyperion 160s. Flew for about 7 minutes and then set her down before hitting LVC. Still using the stock prop and I've probably gained a few grams in glue and tape. Still with the 160 I get acceptable climb and performance, its just no speed demon but that's fine for me because it is my first aileron micro plane. Most of my crashes (and probably another one) were caused by over controlling the roll pulling out of a dive. I did move the aileron control rods to the second to bottom hole to get a better roll rate. Before it was so slow I couldn't pull out of bad situations. Now I just have to be lighter on the sticks. All I have is the stock RTF radio bear in mind.
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by seeingeyegod View Post
Swimmer, nice to see you have the crack in the wing in the EXACT same place mine broke (and broke again about 4 more times). Finally learned to fly this bird and stopped crashing. Had a great flight today in variable winds probably 3-7 gusting to 12. Just using the "dime mod" and Hyperion 160s. Flew for about 7 minutes and then set her down before hitting LVC. Still using the stock prop and I've probably gained a few grams in glue and tape. Still with the 160 I get acceptable climb and performance, its just no speed demon but that's fine for me because it is my first aileron micro plane. Most of my crashes (and probably another one) were caused by over controlling the roll pulling out of a dive. I did move the aileron control rods to the second to bottom hole to get a better roll rate. Before it was so slow I couldn't pull out of bad situations. Now I just have to be lighter on the sticks. All I have is the stock RTF radio bear in mind.
Yep, my Corsair had been pristine after many flights up until I decided to fly it in the wind. Any wind, in my opinion and experience, throws these micros around where it is much work just to keep them in the air. Landing your Corsiar must have been difficult with winds gusting to 12 mph.
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Last edited by swimmer; Mar 02, 2012 at 08:58 AM.
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 11:14 AM
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Hi all I'v just brought my first rc plane and its the corsair F4U,iv been flying micro helis but there're way to fragile and theres only so much i can do unless i go fully 3d which is way to pricey especially if it breaks.
I must say its a great plane,used my batteries from my heli and iv only had a few minor knocks,nothing a bit of sticky tape wont hold together. I did notice that its very tail heavy so next session out and I'll tape a coin to the front as lots of people have mentioned.
Must admit I'm not not missing my heli and will be saving up for a parkzone Spitfire next.
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 12:06 PM
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Hey megadaz, the suggested CG of 28mm behind leading edge is right on but it needs either a bigger battery or weight up front to get it there. If you just do what you have to do to get it to balance at that location, your next flight will be a breeze (as long as it isn't windy).
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Old Mar 03, 2012, 02:32 PM
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Well I decided to try the P-51 prop

I can't seem to remove the 3 blade prop from the motor? How did you guys do it? I started pulling really hard on the front, and was afraid I'd pull the little motor right out of the plane if I pulled any harder on the prop. Do you have to remove the motor first to change props?
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