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Old Oct 10, 2011, 02:00 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
Joined Aug 2009
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I decided to install the nose bottom ply before I check the fit of the electronics.

I glued the hardwood towhook mount block in place and installed the nose bottom sheeting.

I also worked in the hatch area. I installed the hatch magnets and the balsa piece over the wing seat. I briefly sand the the surface of the magnets to roughen and glue them using thick CA. I first couldn't locate any magnets in the kit and supplied my own. Later on, I found two perfectly sized square magnets stuck to the metric blind nuts that I had put aside but it was too late .
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Old Oct 10, 2011, 02:25 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
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When I checked the alignment of the tail feathers I noticed that the stab mount was not parallel to the wing seat and not square to the fin . Everything else is in pretty good alignment, it's just the stab mount... It looks like it shifted out of place as I was clamping the fuse sides together at the tail and I missed it . In an act of desperation, I emailed Elmer's and asked if there's a way to unglue a Carpenter's Glue Max joint, no answer.

Anyways, after some careful sanding I was able to bring things back under control. As long as the bolts stay in place and are not pulled out of this -now thinner- plywood sheet, I'll be OK...
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Old Oct 10, 2011, 11:22 AM
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Don Cohn's Avatar
Sunnyvale, CA
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Wow, Ates, she's looking great! I can't wait to see her fly. Have you decided on a color scheme yet?

Don
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Old Oct 10, 2011, 11:44 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
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Thanks Don. Initially I was planning to do something around transparent red / orange / yellow with painted fuse & tail feathers but now I'm leaning towards this one. Getting impatient I guess, trying to simplify things...
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Old Oct 12, 2011, 03:13 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
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Last couple days I worked on routing the control rods, test fitting the electronics and finishing up with the fuselage sheeting.

I'm using Sullivan Gold-n-wire #587 lightweight control rods. One of the rods comes straight out of the tail (elevator) while the other one for the rudder comes out of the side. The elevator rod doesn't pose much of a problem. For the rudder, I needed to drill a hole at an as shallow angle as I could, through a layer of 2mm balsa and 1mm ply. I used a pin wise here for better access, when I tried a drill (or Dremel) the mandrel would get in the way not allow a shallow drill angle. After some tinkering, I concluded that the best way to route the two sleeves was to stack them as they they are coming through the rear of the fuse, so I added a small piece of balsa block to keep secure them in stacked position. I lightly sanded the sleeves and glued them using thick CA. Inside the fuse, I added one cross brace between the fuse sides to support the rods and glued the sleeves on it as well. I glued the sleeves to the fuse sides at a couple more locations, trying to avoid sharp curves to avoid binding of the rods.

A flat 4-cell 2/3A battery pack fits nicely in the electronics compartment. I ordered mine made out of NiMH 1500mAh cells, that ought to keep me flying for a long time between recharges. I'm using an HS-55 servo for the spoiler and HS-65HB for the tail feathers. I'm planning to use the new 6ch Hitec Minima receiver (6g) but if I end up needing nose weight, I may swap it with a Optima 7 ch out of one of my other planes.

The electronics fit nicely in the nose compartment, with room to spare.
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Old Oct 12, 2011, 03:27 AM
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I jigged up the fuselage before applying the sheeting so that I don't glue in any warps or twists while sheeting.

The sheeting is done easily using the 2mm balsa laser cut pieces.

The only potentially tricky part is where the sheeting curves up to the stab mount. This is a fairly sharp curve. I felt the balsa piece to find where it was easiest to bend and trimmed the piece such that that portion lines up with where I need the bend. After keeping the piece in water for a minute or two, the sheet easily conformed to the curvature.
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Old Oct 14, 2011, 02:41 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
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OK, turn the fuse upside down and continue on...

The bottom side of the tail gets a 2mm laser cut plywood piece. I have to glue this part correctly as it's going to support the fin which is at its best when its straight . I found a scrap leftover from the 4mm balsa sheet where some tail feather components came from and inserted into the slot on the ply to make sure that the plywood piece is properly aligned to support the fin at a right angle with the wing/stab plane.

I then finished up with the rest of the bottom of the fuselage, nothing really exciting...

But the exciting thing is that there's not much gluing left to do, I'm in the final stretch .
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Old Oct 14, 2011, 03:00 AM
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Here's the fuse after the installation of the hatch and some rough sanding.

It came out reasonably straight and is fairly rigid.

Come to think of it, I have all the pieces for a mock up but I'll do it after some more sanding of the fuse.

One thing I noticed is the weight of the tail pieces with the fin/rudder at 18g, and stab at 26g. I have been reading that most Miles builders end up adding nose weight to get to the suggested CG range. I am very much inclined to put together a built-up stab and cut some holes in the fin/rudder. I should be able to cut 15g total out of the tail. The moment arm ratio is slightly larger than 2:1 (CG to tail : CG to nose compartment), which means that I can expect to lighten the whole plane by about 50g. That's quite a bit, well worth the effort...
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Old Oct 16, 2011, 08:40 PM
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Los Gatos, CA
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OK, today I put everything together and checked for the CG before covering. It looks like I'll end up tail heavy and will need to add 50g-60g of nose weight to bring the CG within the recommended range. With that, I decided to carve out the middle sections of the stab and the rudder to reduce the amount of required lead.
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Old Oct 18, 2011, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atesus View Post
... With that, I decided to carve out the middle sections of the stab and the rudder to reduce the amount of required lead.
I think that's a great idea!

Don
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Old Oct 18, 2011, 03:27 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
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Here we go. I set the micrometer to 1cm and circled around the rudder with one jaw touching the perimeter of the wood, the other scoring it. I did the same with the fin.

I cut out the marked regions. I stripped a few 4x4 mm2 sticks out of the resulting scraps for use as cross-members in the rudder.

Here's my new fin & rudder, 6g lighter (from 18g down to 12g). It looks like I'll be able to lighten the tail feather by about 15g after all .
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Old Oct 18, 2011, 02:31 PM
Egads! It's a GIRL!
Lil Stinkpot's Avatar
United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Jul 2011
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Was that a mic or a caliper?

Great work so far, looks fantastic!
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Old Oct 18, 2011, 03:20 PM
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Los Gatos, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil Stinkpot View Post
Was that a mic or a caliper?

Great work so far, looks fantastic!
Thanks. Yeah, I guess the correct term is "caliper". It's what's seen on the left hand side of the first picture .
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Old Oct 18, 2011, 07:01 PM
Egads! It's a GIRL!
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United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Jul 2011
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Thought so. That's my job; inspection room at a machine shop. Little, ityy, bitty parts- usually micrometer work. I just couldn't figure out how you'd wrap a mic around a stab.... Though, if determined enough, it probably can be done.

It's not much longer until this bird flies, isn't it?
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Old Oct 19, 2011, 12:18 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
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No, not much longer. I have to finish up with the tail feather mods and sand them. I decided to glass a couple spots on the wings, rudder and fuse. I already ordered two rolls of Ultracote, covering should be done in a couple of weeks (famous last words ).
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