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Old May 25, 2011, 02:24 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
Joined Aug 2009
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I roughly trimmed off the protruding pieces of balsa/ballast tube at the root rib so that I could temporarily install the plywood end-cap rib in place and use it as template in the next step.

I inserted the joiner in the tube to align the end-cap rib and clamped the rib in position. Using it as template I drilled the 2mm hole for the alignment pin. I glued the alignment tube support pieces in place and trimmed the top to match the adjacent rib profile. I put a tiny bit of machine oil on the alignment pin to avoid sticking and inserted it in the tube, and epoxy glued the tube in place.

I installed the upper TE pieces and clamped them in place with a couple of painter's mixing sticks.

I'll finish the center section once I receive the spoiler servo that I ordered.
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Old May 26, 2011, 01:36 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
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Before moving to another wing section I decided to make some more work on the center section and shape the LE and install the end-cap ribs.

Templates are provided in the kit to check the profile at the center and outermost rib locations while shaping the LE. I removed most of the material using my mini plane, then move on to sanding the LE, frequently checking the progress against the templates. In the meantime, I also took care of a couple minor low spots using Elmer's wood filler.

I installed the top cap strips on the end ribs so that I could sand the center panel ends flat. I propped up the wing to give the desired 10.5 deg angle at the wing end and sanded the surface of the outermost rib. Mistake ! I noticed that I was removing more material from the top of the rib than from the lower parts. That's because I was trying to get all of the 10.5 degrees from this rib whereas the slant should have been split between this last rib of the center panel and the end rib of the inner L/R panel which I have yet to build. Anyways, nearly impossibly to correct now and I don't anticipate this causing a major problem.

I glued the plywood end-cap ribs to the outermost ribs, aligning them with the help of the joiners and alignment pins. Looks OK so far despite the booboo.
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Old May 26, 2011, 01:08 PM
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San Jose, Ca
Joined Feb 2011
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none the less, we all make a (not Mistake) but an error that we can work out, she will fly with grace.
I've been building on/off 50 years, my birds look like the final Flight Of The Phoenix plane compared to your workmanship..................keep it up............sort of speak
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Old May 27, 2011, 02:26 AM
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Ates congratulations!

Very nice building.

Ates tebrik ederim, simdiye kadar 10'a yakin MILES insa ettim.
Hic bu kadar guzel anlatilanini gormedim.
Miles'i cizen ve ureten biri olarak gurur duydum.
Bir kez daha kutlarim.
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Old May 28, 2011, 02:03 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
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Thanks for the encouragement balmy_breeze. I'll do my best to keep it up .
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Old May 28, 2011, 02:18 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
Joined Aug 2009
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Birol, guzel sozlerin icin cok tesekkur ederim. Bu modelin boylesine guzel bir bicimde bir araya gelebilmesinde senin CAD cizimlerinin buyuk payinin oldugunu her adimda goruyor, takdir ediyorum. Cok zevkle insaa ettigim bir model oluyor, urettiginiz icin ben tesekkur ederim.

...

Birol, thank you for your kind words. The way this model can be so nicely put together owes a lot to your CAD work which I appreciate at each step. This is a very pleasant build for me, I thank you guys for manufacturing it.

(Birol Oner AKA qflyers is the CAD designer and part of the manufacturing team of Miles)
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 04:34 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
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Some progress to report .

I glued the remaining cap strips in place, finished the spoiler frame and wing center sheeting. And I received the spoiler servo - HS55 as recommended in the instruction booklet.
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 04:45 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
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I've been thinking about the spoiler servo installation and was particularly concerned with the spoiler in the closed position. I didn't really want the servo to hold the spoiler closed thinking that any shift in the servo adjustment might overload this tiny servo, or leave the spoiler not fully closed.

After some research I've decided to use torque rods to keep the spoiler closed and have the servo responsible for only opening the spoiler.

I made two identical torque rods out of 0.4mm diameter music wire and glued one ends to the center rib. I cut and glued short sections of aluminum tubing on the spoiler to accept the other ends of the torque rods.

I reshaped the longest servo arm which came with the HS55 (Hitec) so that the wheel I build out of a piece 1.2mm wire and two pieces of silicone fuel tubing can roll freely.
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 04:54 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
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Here are the photos of the setup in action and a short video. In the full on position I get about 70-80 degrees of spoiler deflection. I'm expecting to get closer to the upper end of that in the final installation with proper hinges made out of hinge tape, though I believe the max needed is about 60 degrees per the designer.

http://www.youtube.com/v/jEMBIMoKBas?fs=1
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Last edited by atesus; Jun 11, 2011 at 12:50 PM. Reason: Added the video clip
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Old Aug 08, 2011, 12:46 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
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Due to a couple of trips in June/July, I had to stop building my Miles. Good to be back and building again.

I've read on a couple threads about heat reactivation of aliphatic glues and how it's useful for wing sheeting. Not being 100% satisfied with how I ended up sheeting the center wing panel (glue and hold in place until glue dries - which is a PITA with wood glues), I wanted to try this method on the outer wing panels. Before I took the pictures of the left wing panels for the thread, I built the right wing panels, experimenting a bit along the way and trying to get familiar with this method .
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Old Aug 08, 2011, 01:27 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
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I gathered the pieces for the four outer wing panels.

The alignment pins come unbent in the kit. I bent them to roughly match the angle of the wing joiners. This doesn't really need to be accurate as there will be some more wiggle room when epoxying them in place. I also wet sanded the joiners so that they slide in a bit farther into the joiner tubes.

I marked the areas to be sanded on the TE sheeting and sanded them to match the wing profile and I installed the ribs for the inner left wing section. Note that the rightmost rib on the picture is installed square to the building surface since I had given all the required polyhedral angle of this joint to the outermost rib of the center section.
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Old Aug 08, 2011, 08:34 PM
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Middletown, CT
Joined Dec 2003
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Man you do some nice work! I look forward to seeing how this turns out. I have an eye on building one myself.
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 03:57 PM
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San Mateo, Ca , USA
Joined Jun 2000
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Interesting that it has a big single center spoiler. Most are moving away from that in favor of 2 smaller spoilers away from the center. So the spoiler will not blank out the elevator and rudder when deployed.

Brian, an EAJ
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Old Aug 11, 2011, 12:46 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
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grouch, thank you! It's a sweet build, definitely recommended...

Brian, this is my first sailplane with a spoiler (and only my second R/C glider for that matter...) so I don't have first hand experience with the ins and outs of the spoiler but your comments make sense to me. I researched this on a few Miles build threads and the common view I found was that with some non-linear spoiler/elevator mix, the landings are well controlled. I saw no mention of an issue involving the rudder, perhaps because the rudder is fairly tall and wide and also extends below the fuse. I guess I'll see for myself when I get there... In the meantime I'll try to find out the proper mix parameters from previous builders.
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Old Aug 11, 2011, 01:05 AM
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I sanded flat the end rib facing the center panel, inserted the wing joiner+tube and the alignment pin and I temporarily installed the plywood end-cap rib in place.

I joined the left inside panel to the center panel. Once everything was properly aligned, I tack glued the joiner tube and the alignment pin using a couple drops of CA.

I carefully slid out the left inside panel while keeping an eye on the tube and the pin to make sure that they didn't move out of position. I epoxy glued them in place and also glued the two shear webs which I had left uninstalled for access.
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