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Old Dec 09, 2011, 09:31 PM
Just fly it!
wyowindworks's Avatar
Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
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First off you need to make sure that:

1) There is no dust on the surface. You can use a tack cloth or even rinse the part with water.

2) Make sure that the gun in dust free. Rinse the gun and cup with water before application.

3) Mist the air and floor with a misting spray bottle in the spraying area.

4) Cover the object immediately after spraying with clean cardboard box. I used to mist the inside of the box with water so any dust on it wouldn't fall onto the object.

5) Use Frekote.
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 10:02 PM
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Tumbler's Avatar
New Jersey
Joined Feb 2003
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Adam,

Thanks man. I did not send you a PM about this because I have bothered you enough. As for your tips below..


1) Did that. Only used tack on the third try though because I was worried it might leave residue on the plug and react to the pva. Worked good.

2) nope, didn't do that haha. Cleaned it out real good last night though.

3) did that on the 3rd try....forgot the others for some reason

4) so simple yet never though of that!!

5) shut up! haha. I know you love that stuff. I use cheap paint so can't use it. Can I use it in the mold on top of partall wax if I decide to switch over later?

Brian

Quote:
Originally Posted by wyowindworks View Post
First off you need to make sure that:

1) There is no dust on the surface. You can use a tack cloth or even rinse the part with water.

2) Make sure that the gun in dust free. Rinse the gun and cup with water before application.

3) Mist the air and floor with a misting spray bottle in the spraying area.

4) Cover the object immediately after spraying with clean cardboard box. I used to mist the inside of the box with water so any dust on it wouldn't fall onto the object.

5) Use Frekote.
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Old Dec 10, 2011, 12:20 AM
Just fly it!
wyowindworks's Avatar
Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
6,914 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tumbler View Post
Can I use it (Frekote) in the mold on top of partall wax if I decide to switch over later?
Absolutely not. You must remove every bit of the wax before applying Frekote.
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 11:56 PM
Entropy Happens!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Bellingen NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2008
6,060 Posts
PVA application tip.

This tip is totally new to me and I have not read about anywhere. Hence I am bumping this old thread.

My proffessional fibreglasser friends at Woolgoolga suggested dusting the well waxed (as usual) plug or mould with talc before applying the PVA. The excess is dusted off and/or blown off with air.
Then apply the PVA with your preferred application method.

I tried it today with fantastic results! The PVA goes on continuous and homogenous without any surface tension problems like fisheye development and such. I have just done a plug with it and it look like a nice even coat of clear varnish. Hardly even a wipe mark in it; I applied it with a kitchen sponge.

Jim.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 05:04 AM
I am actually really slow
SlowBarless's Avatar
Brisbane
Joined Jun 2008
904 Posts
Any pictures of the finish Jim?

Ive found with pva an important thing is the density of the foam brush you apply it with. I use this light foam material. I dont know what it is, all I know is its yellow! But Ive tried heaps of different application methods, heaps of different foam brushes and this stuff is by far the best! To hard of foam and you end up with streaks, to soft of foam and you cant control the application.

The finish I get is almost flawless.

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Old Jan 24, 2013, 02:59 PM
Entropy Happens!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Bellingen NSW Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowBarless View Post
Any pictures of the finish Jim?

...........................The finish I get is almost flawless.

No, not yet Slow. I'll take some when I apply PVA to the next plugs on the line.

What brand of brush is it you are using?

Jim.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 11:16 PM
I am actually really slow
SlowBarless's Avatar
Brisbane
Joined Jun 2008
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No brands or brushes exactly Jim. I just have a large chunk of foam I cut peices from and just use that. I will try to calculate the density of the foam I use. That might help someone try to find the same type of foam.

When I apply it it's completely streak and bubble free! Looks like an absolute mirror once its dry.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 11:54 PM
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Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Bellingen NSW Australia
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Sounds very good.
Do you thin the PVA?
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 02:03 AM
I am actually really slow
SlowBarless's Avatar
Brisbane
Joined Jun 2008
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I played around with thinning it a while back and although it did work well it took much longer to dry then I could afford.

I tried thinning it with both water and metho buy about 30%. Made it nice and runny. I prefered the metho mix over the water mix because it seemed to dry faster and didnt seem to bubble up as much while I was thinning it down. The finish and release qualities of both were the same.

IMO it's not really worth thinning it. You might get a slightly thinner coat of pva if you do, but it will be more fragile.

The most important thing with PVA is to keep it fresh. Never leave the lid off the bottle for more then a few seconds. Pour whatever pva you need into another container and get the lid back on the bottle ASAP. Reason being is the pva will begin to go off in the bottle and over time you will get pva flakes floating around inside which will absolutely ruin whatever finish you're aiming for. Also pays to keep the lid clean, you really dont want any hard pva flakes falling back into the bottle! Clean applicators and clean moulds also really help.

PVA has driven me insane over the last few months, but I think I have it finally worked out. I know there's the option to not use it at all and sometimes I dont. But time constraints is really something I have to consider. Waxing a mould 3-4 times isnt something I can really do. So a coat of wax and pva works just fine for me
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 02:07 AM
I am actually really slow
SlowBarless's Avatar
Brisbane
Joined Jun 2008
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Also Jim, I dont think all PVA is created equal. I started off with some stuff I got from a marine store, after I used all that I got some PVA from CG Composites here in Brisbane. Wow what a difference!
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 04:09 AM
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Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Bellingen NSW Australia
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New moulds or old?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ......................[I
So a coat of wax and pva works just fine for me[/I]
Are you talking about new moulds or old ones here?
You may already be aware that after seasoning, a mould only needs wax.

There is an excellent article posted somewhere here on these forums by Adam called: "Why Moulds Stick". Well worth the read if you have not already read it.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 06:37 AM
I am actually really slow
SlowBarless's Avatar
Brisbane
Joined Jun 2008
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That's seasoned moulds Jim.

Im well aware that I could get away with only a single coat of wax, as now all my moulds are well broken in. The PVA is good insurance though and the finish is more then acceptable.

Ive weighed up the benefits of using pva vs not using it and in the end Ive settled on using it. (As much as I hate it) Ive found though I need atleast 2 coats of wax on a seasoned mould to get a good relase. Whether it's because I rush when im waxing or because of the wax im using (it is over 20 years old!) im not sure.

That said, im looking into getting the frekote system soon. Just having trouble tracking some down in Aus..
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 11:04 AM
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Fubar 123's Avatar
Whitchurch,Shropshire. UK
Joined Jul 2008
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Jim,
I have been testing the Talcum powder 'Method' and I'm pleased to say 'It Works Well'
Tested on a broken fus plug that has not had any Freekote near it.
3 layers of wax were buffed up then sprinkled some Talc onto it and then the excess blown off with the air gun.
Pva was applied firstly with a sponge and later a layer of gel coat was applied,
In anther test all the above was repeated except that the pva {thinned] was applied with an air brush.
In both cases the gel coat was pull off with no effort.
Many thanks for the great Tip.
I need to try applying the talc from a small sieve ( tea strainer) to save wasting so much.
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 04:12 PM
Entropy Happens!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Bellingen NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2008
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Spraying PVA

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fubar 123 View Post
Jim,
I have been testing the Talcum powder 'Method' and I'm pleased to say 'It Works Well'
Tested on a broken fus plug that has not had any Freekote near it.
3 layers of wax were buffed up then sprinkled some Talc onto it and then the excess blown off with the air gun.
Pva was applied firstly with a sponge and later a layer of gel coat was applied,
In anther test all the above was repeated except that the pva {thinned] was applied with an air brush.
In both cases the gel coat was pull off with no effort.
Many thanks for the great Tip.
I need to try applying the talc from a small sieve ( tea strainer) to save wasting so much.
Excellent Chris!
I'm pleased you tried spraying the PVA on. I'm thinking that will be the best method to use after the talc as it will not disturb and redistribute it.

The small sieve is good tip. I think I have one somewhere.

Jim.
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 11:44 PM
Come out swinging
sporter's Avatar
San Diego
Joined Mar 2005
2,605 Posts
Wipe on using old white t-shirt pieces. I have applied it this way for over 10 years, on literally thousands of lay ups.

Sean
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