I guess it depends on your flying style but I believe 1400kv is too high unless you just want to go fast. You'll have to stick to a smallish prop, like a 9x6e to keep from overpropping it and burning it up. Those motor specs seems very optimistic to me. Personally, a kv around 1000-1100 would be better for me so I could spin a larger prop (10x7 ish) which is better for slower, 3d type maneuvers, not to mention more grunt when you go wide open.

how about one pf these.. a 450 or a 480?
http://www.cermark.com/products/NEO-...A-1%2C120.html
or
http://www.cermark.com/products/NEO-...A-1%2C000.html
or tell me something else

yeah i think a 50a esc is a little overkill for this plane. Im sure you could sorce that turnigy motor from somewhere else mate.

I found mine on ebay.

BTW just finished putting a second coat of paint on my extra 260. Im going to put a clear coat on it soon. Then fix up the motor mount. Im hoping i can get her ready to fly this weekend.

check out this motor, its sweet and not to heavy. awesome quality. shipping over $25 is free so pick up a 40amp esc or a battery. thats what i did
http://www.hobbypartz.com/86mb18-roc...08-1190kv.html

Originally Posted by thead

check out this motor, its sweet and not to heavy. awesome quality. shipping over $25 is free so pick up a 40amp esc or a battery. thats what i did
http://www.hobbypartz.com/86mb18-roc...08-1190kv.html

I put one of these in my 260 over the weekend:
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/15_size_b...33015_prd1.htm

40A and 420 watts at around 90grams. Haven't flown it yet but ran it up with a 10x4.5 sf prop. At full throttle it was pulling 1550grams and slightly over the amp and watt ratings. 1550 grams gives me a T:W of 1.58 using a 2200 pack (my plane weighs 980g with new landing gear and the 2200).

I've been flying with a Super Tigre .10 motor which has been great but wanted to try something with more oo (those are balls). I had to slightly enlarge the mount holes on the eRC .15 to make it a drop in replacement for the ST .10.

I'll report back after a flight test or two. By the way - I've found a great use for the fried stock motor - it's an excellent source of small rare earth magnets for use on cowls and hatches. I've got 4 of them holding my cowl on now.

so i finished painting my plane. I put two coats on and a coat of sealer. Took a while. Not the best or prettiest job but it will do. Should be able to see her in the sky no problems now. I painted the tail pink just for an online mate to raz him up.









I got some mdf and a saw today to make the motor mount. Ill do it in the morning when the sealer has dried alot more.

Originally Posted by stalyoni

so i finished painting my plane. I put two coats on and a coat of sealer. Took a while. Not the best or prettiest job but it will do. Should be able to see her in the sky no problems now. I painted the tail pink just for an online mate to raz him up.

I got some mdf and a saw today to make the motor mount. Ill do it in the morning when the sealer has dried alot more.

That would be awsom to fly in a disco , by the way I notice you still have the original clevices on the elevator / rudder. Any problems? I stripped mine on the first try and replaced them with Dupro micro's.

Originally Posted by Rostermonkey

That would be awsom to fly in a disco , by the way I notice you still have the original clevices on the elevator / rudder. Any problems? I stripped mine on the first try and replaced them with Dupro micro's.

i had to replace the original screws but they seem to work ok. There very secure so i dont think it will be a problem.

Yah i just need a disco ball now.

Originally Posted by Sammy70

If you're using the stock motor and propping it for 29a you won't be using the stock motor long

I see others reporting around 24a with the stock motor and a GWS 9x5 HD.
I have flown it 3~4 times and it gets warm but not hot, of course I am not flying around at WOT, and the amps will come down as the battery voltage drops.
I have a new eagletree to try out, that will give a better picture of the amps in flight. But I "landed" in a tree and when I got it down (by running the prop and wiggiling the controls) it floped on the grass and the rudder hinge broke off, so I have to re-hinge the rudder & I want to fix/replace the pushrods before I fly again. The elevator rod is flexing in flight and makes for some slightly exciting times when its only a meter or two above the ground The rudder is also flexing, when flying slow, it responds, but pick up some speed and the rudder doesn't even move much.

Originally Posted by CoyoteLes

I see others reporting around 24a with the stock motor and a GWS 9x5 HD.
I have flown it 3~4 times and it gets warm but not hot, of course I am not flying around at WOT, and the amps will come down as the battery voltage drops.
I have a new eagletree to try out, that will give a better picture of the amps in flight. But I "landed" in a tree and when I got it down (by running the prop and wiggiling the controls) it floped on the grass and the rudder hinge broke off, so I have to re-hinge the rudder & I want to fix/replace the pushrods before I fly again. The elevator rod is flexing in flight and makes for some slightly exciting times when its only a meter or two above the ground The rudder is also flexing, when flying slow, it responds, but pick up some speed and the rudder doesn't even move much.

I think it would be a good recommendation to swap out the control rods and clevices for something else. There are plenty of suggestions in the thread. I even swapped out the Aileron rods and clevices for some I had left over from my PZ F4 Wildcat rebuild.

Snapped my Extras nose off on a bumpy landing, gear stayed put though Couldn't have anything to do with me running a 122 gram outrunner in the nose

Ran two carbon 4mm carbon tubes counter sunk in the fuse and going through for and aft bulkheads as well, light coat of 30min epoxy. Added about 12 grams. The fuse is very ridged now. Happy with the repair.

Also while changing out the rudder hardware and pushrods I found the rudder hinge starting to tear. So re-hinged that with some Dubros.

Had a blast last time out with the Extra, with the rudder on high rates you can do a 180 power slide and be going the opposite direction in the blink of an eye.

Snapped my 260's nose off as well on a rough landing this afternoon. NTSB contributing factors: heavier than stock motor, very weak fuselage just aft of landing gear box, extra strong and stiff custom landing gear that transmitted almost all of the impact energy into the fuselage just ahead of said very weak section and lastly the pilot's less than stellar landing ability.

In hind sight, the original gear would have completely prevented this failure by absorbing nearly all of the impact energy by completely buckling in on themselves. I suggest that anyone who has strengthened their gear might also want to strengthen the fuselage to make it compatible.

guys had a great flight this morning with my extra but on the second belly landing i ripped off the rudder.

Whats the best way to secure the rudder back on other then hinge tape?

Pull up whats the dubro rudder fix you speak of mate?

I had two great flight and i will post up vids soon. With the new paint scheme it was very easy to see it in the sky.

Dudes, move your rudder and aileron servos into the middle with longer arms, way more throw available!!!! My extra can just about flip over backwards. Great little trick, I go from a harrier into a prop hang, drop into an elevator cut the power and flip her over backwards then push the power on and head off in level flight in the original direction of travel. I know it sounds like I'm a bit of a tosser without video proof but his plane is so manouverable : - Darryl

"Pull up whats the dubro rudder fix you speak of mate?"

Dubro hinges. Work great!

Already hinged the ailerons.

Spent the morning knife edging the Extra down the runway