|Apr 17, 2011, 01:38 PM|
Kyosho Seawind questions
I recently acquired a Kyosho Seawind from a fellow who simply grew bored of it. The boat is completely stock and well put together. FUTABA FP S3801 and 3003 servo’s are installed.
I will be purchasing a Tx and Rx for the boat and I was wondering if the two channel pistol type (with the steering wheel and trigger) is suitable for a sailboat?
I want to use 2.4 GHz as there are usually guys flying RC helicopters nearby and I would not like to cause any conflicts.
I am not familiar with model sailboats and would like to avoid any pit falls.
The boat will be used on seawater as there are very few fresh water locations available close by, the sea in Greece is however startlingly beautiful.
Will the fittings rust or are they SS?
Does the hull take in water as the seawater is certain destruction for any onboard electronics?
If so are there known leak or weak points that I can address before I start to use the boat?
Some times the breeze can be very brisk, are there different sails available to enhance sailing characteristics?
Does a heavier keel ballast make a difference?
|Apr 18, 2011, 12:17 PM|
First welcome to this great hobby! To learn a lot about your new boat I suggest you visit this thread on Seawinds http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1359413&page=6
In response to your comments and questions let say for starters the servo that your boat came with are of the best out there. The sail servo is the best in my opinion, unfortunately they have been discontinued. Still some out there on the Internet. Not a bad thing to have an extra. Rudder servos are pretty much standard fair and easy to get replacements should that be necessary.
Regarding radio types; Pistol types are for cars, trucks and fast boats and are not the choice for Sailboats. Get a good stick 2.4 ghz radio and receiver. (they have to match) Often a receiver will come with a good radio, or will be advertised as an accessory. You need to read up on radios before you buy one so you don't get the wrong one or pay to much for something you don't need.
If you are going to use it only for sailing you don't need to buy the most expensive set up out there. You can get 2 to 4 channel set ups for $75 or less. More about radios can be found on this forum and on the link I provided.
Salt water and RC electronics don't mix! Any water is not good. The Seawind has a history of having a leaky hatch cover. This can be corrected in a number of ways. See post number #5 on the thread link I gave you. Lots of good info there. It outlines an easy fix and where to go to get the hatch upgrade. There are several other possible points on a Seawind that can leak. The keel shaft and the rudder shaft. The use of properly sized O-rings on these shafts can address most potential leaks. The rudder shaft and keel shaft need to be lubricated with water proof lithium grease, as seal, as a lubricant and as a corrosion inhibitor. Any good hardware store sells it.
The hardware on the Seawind is SS and aluminum. Be advised that salt water can still take a toll on SS and aluminum. As you may know not all SS is the same hardness and some will corrode. So just wash your boat off after you use it and you should be ok. The rigging is aluminum, which is fairly resistant to saltwater but, if the saltwater is left on it, it will eat into it. Again, that is why boat owners large and small wash their boats all the time.
Regarding sails, like their larger relatives, RC sailboats can have a set of sails for normal wind conditions, and for heavier wind conditions. There are a bunch of custom sail makers out there that make custom sails for Seawinds. More on this can be found in the link I gave you.
I say, while you are learning, stay with the normal sailing parameters of the Seawinds stock set up. Learn to sail it before you start getting into the heavy stuff. A very helpful tool for you is an anemometer to measure the wind conditions before and while you are sailing. This tool can keep you out of trouble.
Most people over estimate the speed of the wind and by doing think they boats can sail in wind conditions that are not really present. I can tell you
that to put a Seawind or any other RC boat of similar size in the water in real 10 mph wind is a real handful and care must be taken to do it without hurting your boat. Beyond that wind speed, in inexperienced hands will get knock down (over) submarine or worse, demasted.
In experienced hands, 10 mph can be very exciting. These boat love wind
in the area of 3 to 8 mph. Seawinds have a tendance to "bow dive" and to get knock down in the heavier conditions. All the more reason to make sure your boat is water tight! A tip, put some flotation foam in the bow, so if the worst case situation happens the boat won't sink.
You can add weight to the ballast but, it really isn't necessary for sailing in normal conditions. The Seawind's rudder could have been made larger and that would have reduced some knock downs. Too much wind can over power the rudder. Thus you must learn to sail the boat within it's limits.
There a several ways to test you boat for leaks. To do these test you must take the electronics out to do either test.
After you have installed the O-rings on the shafts and lubricated them, installed the new hatch upgrade or repair you original hatch cover, you can fill the hull with water, put the hatch back on and see what you get. Then turn it over, see if any water leaks out. Some of the deck fittings may leak and depending how big the leak is will dictate the solution. There are a few holes in the deck that can leak but not a lot.
Have to go now. This should get you started. Take a look through the other threads on this site on Seawinds, you find the answers to most of your questions.
Here are some links to a great RC forum on yourside of the pond. This site can be an amazing resource for you. Join it so you can read up on your boat and others.
This link should take you to the home page for Model boat Mayhem http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php
This link will take you to the threads on Seawinds.
I posted a few photos of my CF Edition Seawind that show the hatch upgrade and a few other little upgrades I made to improve the things
The sources and details of all this and more can be found on the other links I have provided for you.
|Apr 19, 2011, 08:20 AM|
I thank you for your lengthy and detailed reply to my plea for Seawind tips. Very gracious of you, you represent modeling as I know it.
I am not a newcomer to RC (I build and fly large scale helicopters, airplanes and gliders) but this is the first time I am dipping my toes (literally) in this RC sailing lake. I have attached a photo of my new addition to my heli fleet.
I was surprised to see that the hull is without compartments not even a RC waterproof box. I will copy what you have done for the RC access hatch. How thick is the clear polycarbonate that you have used for the cover? Judging by that fact that you have a good result with a three point fixing, I imagine around 5mm thick.
I have already started to apply some of the practices I read about by water proofing and strengthening the keel locating box in the hull bottom (bilge) with glass cloth, chop strand and epoxy resin.
I will endeavor to check and try to apply the cures you recommended to the locations that you pointed out to me as potential water ingress spots.
|Apr 19, 2011, 10:56 AM|
No problem. Wow, nice chopper!! Your glass work looks about as good as it gets!
With your glider expereince you will take to sailing as if it were 2nd nature. The sense of the wind required for piloting gliders is very much like sailing these boats.
These boats have limits, as I mentioned, but if you sail within those limits you will have few if any issues with your boat. I have another link for you. This one is dedicated to Seawinds. Lot of great ideas and tips on tuning your sails, to building a terrific boat carrier.
Here is a link to Stock Maritime they build some of the coolest RC boats ever made. On their site find the down load to their catalog and download it. Open it and page down to the RC boats, you will be amazed! All it takes is MONEY!
I would have added here but the file is too large to post.
One fellow bonded CF strips on his hatch to stiffen it - see the photo.
I purchased the hatch upgrade from a nice guy that makes them in his machine shop and sells them on e-bay -
I just found this info on an old post on another fourm - thought it was kind of interesting.
1. try moving the battery pack to behind the severo tray, helps with the submarining (bow under water,down wind),
2. shim the ballest before putting the cover on it,a small piece of thin balsa wood will do towards the stearn between the balast and the keel,helps with the submarining),
3. get the hayalard topping kit and the boom ext kit,total of around 10 dollars, helps in light wind.
|Apr 20, 2011, 12:17 PM|
Thanks again, a wealth of information.
I will try to make my stock Seawind as seaworthy and waterproof as possible to enjoy as is. Then if my skills develop I can start throwing money at it.
I have started to make a more substantial hatch cover as the OEM supplied one appears to be for swimming pool use only.
I quickly drew a CAD schematic and had a local Plexiglass guy cut it out for me on a laser plotter cutter. The top cover is transparent 5mm and the internal fixing component is 8mm thick (donít want any flexing). Itís heavier than the original but Iím not going racing anytime soon.
Next step will be to make up the appropriate screws and put it all on the boat.
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