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Old Feb 11, 2012, 05:27 PM
I need a bigger shed..
sammyc's Avatar
Australia, TAS, Launceston
Joined Nov 2011
1,498 Posts
I just use velcro, I used to wedge some foam in there too, but gave up on it and had no issues. Done some high g manoeuvres and battery was still secure. But yea, I found it hard to trust the velcro at first too
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 09:35 AM
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United States, FL, The Villages
Joined Oct 2010
4,001 Posts
Right now I have 1 1/4 oz of weight up front, not happy with the CG. I think I'm just going to add weight to get it where I want it and move the battery to a spot that is at least reachable. 2 or 3 oz on a plane that weighs nearly 5 lbs is not that big of a deal.
Don
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 10:24 AM
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Ben D Wing's Avatar
The Peak District
Joined Dec 2006
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I wrapped small sheets of lead around each side of the motor mount and then coated them with UHU Por to prevent any possible loosening. All good so far.
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 10:32 AM
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Suomi, Espoo
Joined Sep 2011
176 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sammyc View Post
Very rough, but it works somewhat.
Under high G manoeuvres I still drop the canopy
When bending the fuselage like in a negative G maneuvre, it will flex and pop the canopy. Maybe lots of magnets will fix it, but I doubt it. It's not only overpressure that's causing the canopy to eject, but also the fuselage flexing under stress.
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 10:40 AM
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United States, FL, The Villages
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben D Wing View Post
I wrapped small sheets of lead around each side of the motor mount and then coated them with UHU Por to prevent any possible loosening. All good so far.
It's good to see I'm not the only one that needed a lot of weight!
Don
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 12:40 PM
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Ben D Wing's Avatar
The Peak District
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jstjern View Post
When bending the fuselage like in a negative G maneuvre, it will flex and pop the canopy.
It's not only overpressure that's causing the canopy to eject, but also the fuselage flexing under stress.
Really? My canopy stays in place through negative snap rolls and anything else I can throw at it. There's only one small hole through the fuselage bottom to allow a through flow of air and the stock magnet works just fine. Maybe some folks aren't trimming enough off the canopy front, back & sides and this could then prevent the cockpit from sitting flat on the fuselage.
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 12:55 PM
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Suomi, Espoo
Joined Sep 2011
176 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben D Wing View Post
Maybe some folks aren't trimming enough off the canopy front, back & sides and this could then prevent the cockpit from sitting flat on the fuselage.
Maybe I should add "at least on my plane" - seems there are significant differences between individuals/revisions. So here goes: on my plane, bending the fuselage by hand causes a several mm gap between the back of the canopy and the supporting fuselage, right above the stock magnet.

I will try trimming the pastic, so far it has neatly slid on top of the foam when assembling, so not sure if it is part of the problem.

I have so far used tape to secure the canopy. I will add a latch when returning to Finland after a few weeks in Adelaide, Australia soon. Any tips on good dealers? Not leaving Australia without my copy of an addicionX!
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 01:32 PM
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United States, FL, The Villages
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I trimmed my canopy so that a small gap remains between the foam and canopy edge all the way around. Maybe about an 1/8" of the painted foam is showing on the sides and just shy of that on the front and back edges. I added a magnet above the factory magnet, about an inch down from the top edged. Mine seems to seat fine. I hope it's enough because just outside the airfield boundaries is fence and cows. Could be a bit of work to chase down a runaway canopy!
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 01:42 PM
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Suomi, Espoo
Joined Sep 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkrhardy View Post
I trimmed my canopy so that a small gap remains between the foam and canopy edge all the way around. Maybe about an 1/8" of the painted foam is showing on the sides and just shy of that on the front and back edges. I added a magnet above the factory magnet, about an inch down from the top edged. Mine seems to seat fine. I hope it's enough because just outside the airfield boundaries is fence and cows. Could be a bit of work to chase down a runaway canopy!
Don, mine seats really tight and snug while on the ground too. Just be prepared
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 01:48 PM
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United States, FL, The Villages
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OH great! I have 2 latches that are sitting in their packages just waiting for me to figure them out and install one of them. Maybe I'd better take this down time and do it! Thanks.
Don
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 03:43 PM
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rowdyjoe's Avatar
Arlington, TX
Joined Jul 2009
1,322 Posts
New to This Bird

Wow! You guys have certainly covered this plane thoroughly. I just ordered one from Hobby King ...the blue 3D version with the 42-48 motor, and I'm looking forward to flying it. I bought it to help me practice aerobatics and learn maneuvers. I don't want to risk my 55cc bird while trying to learn new stuff. EPO foam is far easier to repair than wood and covering ...and MUCH cheaper.

I'm concerned about the canopy ejection issue. Seems as though some are having this problem and some aren't. The vent hole seems very reasonable and solves the problem for some (most?) but, now we find that fuselage flex is also an issue. I think I'll drill the vent hole and check the fit and add extra magnets.

It appears that many folks agree that a 14X7 two blade is a very good replacement for the 3 blade prop. Have you reached agreement on which brand works best? I've noticed that some folks are using wood props and others are using plastic. I would think that an APC plastic would perform better than wood. For those using the plastic props; are you using an "electric" prop or a standard APC type?

I'm very impressed with the effort you folks have made to get your birds flying their best. Thanks for posting those efforts here to benefit us late-comers to the game.

RJ
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 04:29 PM
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United States, FL, The Villages
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Hi Joe,
I am in the process as we speak, (type?), of installing a latch. I have also added an extra, small, rare earth type magnet. I have also done the extra holes as described in the Top Gun Park Flite manual. It is the same plane distributed by them. The link to it is several pages back. I just did a search on-line and can't find it. BUT, go back until you do find it on these pages ... it is FAR, FAR better than the manual you'll get with your plane.
My prop is APC 14x7 thin electric. Very sturdy. IMHO the plastics survive better than wood. A soft ground strike seems to break wood.
Stay in touch and let us know how it flies for you. I think you are the only one here that is a true 3D guy. Sorry if I have excluded anyone already here that is a true 3D!
Don

edit : I FOUND IT! Page 36 post #540 It's worth adding to your desktop.
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 11:49 PM
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rowdyjoe's Avatar
Arlington, TX
Joined Jul 2009
1,322 Posts
Ooops. Didn't mean to give anyone the impression that I'm a hot shot 3D pilot. Not even close. I'm a Novice class pilot in IMAC which does not require any 3D maneuvers I'm happy to say.
I want this plane to practice the required routine and learn new maneuvers for moving up in class to Sportsman. It's a lot cheaper to make mistakes with this plane than my 55cc gas bird.
By the way, this bird is legal for IMAC competition. There is no size limit for the plane you use (big or small) so, if you want to try your hand at precision aerobatics visit the IMAC web site and take a look at the required routines. There are videos posted on the site that demonstrate those maneuvers.

Forgot to mention, electric birds are allowed in IMAC providing they have the battery power needed to fly the entire routine. In other words, if your electric can fly for 6 to 7 min. you're good to go. They must also resemble a version of one of the full scale birds that fly aerobatics ....eg. MX2, Giles 202, Extra 260, Extra 300, etc..

RJ
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 12:10 AM
Just flitting about!!
bigroger's Avatar
Joined Aug 2011
2,637 Posts
Joe,
electric apc props are pretty good but some wood props are even better dependant on brand.

If you are looking at pure amps versus thrust performance.

If you are concerned over prop strike due to nose over etc, then forget about wood.
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 03:47 AM
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rowdyjoe's Avatar
Arlington, TX
Joined Jul 2009
1,322 Posts
Thanks for the tip BigRoger.
With this bird I'm more concerned about performance and flight longevity. I need good vertical performance but, it doesn't have to go up forever ...just get to the top of a good sized loop from level flight (without zooming). I have some experience with APC "E" props and they've done a good job for me in the past.

I've been flying electrics for about 3 yrs and have recently upgraded to fuel. I have a 55cc MX2 and a giant scale Spacewalker II 120 with a 26cc gas engine mounted. I also have an Escapade 61 (68" wing span) with an OS .61 and have just reassembled an old pattern plane called the Intruder by world models. I mounted an OS .61 on that one too. Both of the glow birds are running APC 12x6 at the moment but, I think I'll switch to a 13x6 on the Intruder.
The MX2 has a 23x10 on it and it really pulls that bird UP. That DLE 55cc is a very strong engine. I'm still searching for the best prop for the Spacewalker but, it's flying well right now with a 15x8.
I run wooden props on my gas birds as they perform well, look good, and the planes are not prone to nose over ....although I must confess to having a few splintered props on my "wall of shame". I could tell you about the time I taxied into the chain-link fence at the club field but, I'll leave that story for later.


RJ
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Last edited by rowdyjoe; Feb 13, 2012 at 03:54 AM.
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