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Old Feb 04, 2012, 07:05 AM
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AndyRo's Avatar
Romania, Neamt, Piatra Neamt
Joined Sep 2010
65 Posts
Hello dkrhardy !

I'll post some pictures with my ESC assembled and the cowl that has a hole for the air to cool down the electronics inside.

Also I bought some new servos for the ailerons because the originals are not trustworthy.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=10345
with arm extensions
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=10076

You can solder new signal cable wire for the esc that is 45 cm long and you solved the problem
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9723

For the battery I bought some of these:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9674
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9673
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 08:00 AM
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United States, FL, The Villages
Joined Oct 2010
4,000 Posts
Hello Andy,
Please call me Don, if you would like.
I am looking forward to seeing your placement of the ESC. Today I will probably work on the extra rudder hinge. I'm not sure if I will use a plastic&pin hinge or a simple CA hinge. I have just one large CA type but several plastic type. I hate the chance of getting epoxy on the pin. If I do the grease on the pin, so epoxy cannot foul it, THEN I worry about getting it on the part that needs epoxy. That would foul the epoxy's adhesion. Worry, worry! But, I have the time to ponder it! Woo Hoo!
Don
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 08:42 AM
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Waterbird's Avatar
Annapolis, Maryland, USA
Joined Mar 2005
175 Posts
new driver, added hinge

New driver in my MX ... silly look, about the right size. I am a bit concerned about his weight -- added more than 2 oz after of the COG. I'll try this change to see how much of a problem it is ... will add some weight forward if necess ...

Showing some hinge choices. The little plastic ones are available very cheap from HK, and work quite nicely. They must be epoxied in foam, with care taken not to get epoxy in the center. The CA hinges are the old standby -- kinda crude, but effective. I think the Robarts are best -- especially if the rudder alreadly is joined and you're just adding on.

Note -- I just cut slots in the foam, epoxied in the Robart hinge (1st, put some light oil on the pin and for about 2 mm on either side, to keep epoxy from fouling it) -- then tried to replace the foam over where the slits went ... looks a bit clugey, but works very nicely. Nobody looks back there!

Oh, for you guys moving your ESC ... have there been reports of burning up the 70 amp units? Maybe I missed same? If you're looking for peace of mind, and like the extra tinkering, fine, but I don't think a lot of work on this is justified ... Like other guys, I just cut a hole in bottom of fuse under servos to allow outflow of air. I reiterate, my lipos are BARELY warm to the touch after an aggressive 6 minute flight. If flown with 4S, I think the amps are not excessive, and this system does not seem to be generating much heat.
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 08:56 AM
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Ben D Wing's Avatar
The Peak District
Joined Dec 2006
2,894 Posts
New pilot?! Arrghhh!!

D'oh, d'oh, and thrice d'oh!
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 08:59 AM
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Ben D Wing's Avatar
The Peak District
Joined Dec 2006
2,894 Posts
He looks a bit of a duff pilot to me!
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 10:05 AM
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AndyRo's Avatar
Romania, Neamt, Piatra Neamt
Joined Sep 2010
65 Posts
Ok, Don it is then.
Here are the pictures, it is only for you to see how I think of mounting my ESC for good cooling during flights. As soon as HK sends my items (New year for them hehe) the transformation will be complete.
I also changed my rudder hinges with this one http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8417
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 12:37 PM
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United States, FL, The Villages
Joined Oct 2010
4,000 Posts
Thanks waterbird! I'm not sure which I will use. A simple slit from the bottom and I can just slide in a CA hinge and then CA it in place. May be the easiest. The concerns I read may have been with the smaller ESC. Joining the party late and reading all of these pages in 2 days .. well I may have gotten some things jumbled up! I have been staying in touch daily since. I think I will see if I can bore some small to medium holes through the firewall, like I said a few posts ago. And, of course, the ones in the fuselage toward the rear. That link to the better manual shows where and how to do it.

Thanks to you also Andy. Looks like you are awaiting your wires .. so you can extend them a bit. I don't know the rule, but if you extend them too much it is not good for your ESC. There is a thread about that somewhere. I am doing things outside of the house today, may get to do some work later in the afternoon.

I use Anderson Power Poles on all of my planes and need to crimp up some connectors before I can hook things up and test servos, etc.

OH, got a new DX8 to replace my DX6i ... man oh man that thing is CONFUSING! Just got the 6i figured out and gotta re-learn it all.
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 08:53 AM
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United States, FL, The Villages
Joined Oct 2010
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Morning all.
OK, some of you that are a lot smarter than me have been waiting for me to finnaly figure this one out! I had said I wanted to bore some holes through the firewall to allow air to flow into the battery/fuselage area, and you guys say there laughing and wondering when I'd see the folly in that thought, huh? Yep, if I tried that silly move I'd have been boring holes right through the landing gear area! At best, it surely would weaken the gear mounting. Soooo, now maybe some holes through the firewall on each SIDE of the motor mount and into the fuselage. Need to look at it carefully. I'll do the rear holes today and see about the other holes while I'm at it. Yesterday I glued the pilot in place as well as the canopy. I also got the Andersons on the ESC wires and a battery. If I knew how to work this danged DX8, I'd bind it up and check the electrics on this bird too. It is tough to be a tech challenged fellow!
Don
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 02:35 PM
I need a bigger shed..
sammyc's Avatar
Australia, TAS, Launceston
Joined Nov 2011
1,498 Posts
Why do you need to drill holes? Surely the channel where the battery sits will allow plenty of air? Mine is like this (stock) and have no cooling issues at all. Or is it because of your ESC blocking the opening?
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 05:48 PM
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Waterbird's Avatar
Annapolis, Maryland, USA
Joined Mar 2005
175 Posts
Just a quick, pre-superBowl post to report on a couple flights to check the COG implications of flying with a Homer Simpson pilot (as shown in post 813), and how the MX 2 flies in knife edge:

First, by trimming a bit of the foam I had put in front of the battery, I was able to move the battery just a bit further forward -- so it just disappears from sight under the forward part of the cockpit. With the 4S 2650 lipo pushed up there, the COG did not change very much, and flight characteristics seemed almost the same. SO -- Homer can stay, for now.

About knife edge flight: even with the stock tail wheel arrangement, the rudder deflection is enough for good knife edge authority. I only had a chance to fly knife edge in one direction -- from right to left, with the top of the plane facing me. I did the half roll to start the maneuver, and when the bird flipped up on her side, I keyed in strong right rudder (using high rate, with deflection set at 100% of the allowable rudder movement.)

Found the bird would "rudder turn up" all the way out of knife edge with full rudder, so I backed off a bit (good news; I had wondered if there was enough rudder travel -- there is, more than enough.)

Aileron adjustment needed? In knife edge, it's pretty common for models to "fall over," either toward the gear or toward the cockpit (called "roll coupling") -- which can be trimmed out by mixing in some aileron to the rudder to counteract this tendency. My MX did not seem to exhibit this "fall over" -- at least, I didn't notice it very much, because of what else it was doing ... which related to:

Elevator adjustment needed? In knife edge, a few models want to "steer away" or "steer toward" you (called "pitch coupling") -- again, this can be trimmed out -- this time, by mixing in some elevator with the rudder movement.

My MX flipped up solidly onto knife edge, and looked pretty cool doing so ... but, quickly exhibited a strong "pitch coupling" tendency (wanted to "steer away" from me.) I know from experience that in this situation (knife edge flying from right to left, top of plane facing me; and plane steers away) -- to make it go straight, I need to mix in a few degrees of up elevator to right rudder.

Don't know yet, but I assume it will need a similar mix of up elevator to left rudder, for knife edge in the other direction.

Will try these mix adjustments out and report results. Still hoping to get a buddy to come take video ...
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Last edited by Waterbird; Feb 07, 2012 at 08:44 AM. Reason: add the terms: "roll coupling" and "pitch coupling"
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 06:08 PM
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United States, FL, The Villages
Joined Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammyc View Post
Why do you need to drill holes? Surely the channel where the battery sits will allow plenty of air? Mine is like this (stock) and have no cooling issues at all. Or is it because of your ESC blocking the opening?
Yes, my ESC fills up the only hole in the firewall. Tight, friction fit, to hold the ESC in place I presume. Today I bored 2 holes, 3/8" along side of and near the top edge of the motor. They exit (enter?) just under where the center of the star is. Right where the battery will sit. I wanted to do 2 more lower on the firewall, but the ply for the mount was there so I decided a little air is better than screwing up the motor mount. I did the 3 holes aft of the wing area as per the "other" om-line manual. Man that foam is THICK (deep?) back there. Lots of it!

Next thing - how many of you could not get the screws to go into the plastic part when installing the vert stabilizer? The plastic part was not even close to lining up. Tried to nudge it over, nothing. Tried more, nothing. Seemed it was waaaay off. So I did the "crazy flying" thing and just CA'd the sucker in place! Everything else has been spot on, so I was surprised. However, those little control rods for the tailwheel connection were not close to the correct length. Lots of bending and they are OK, not great. Tried springs but mine were all wrong. I did a CA hinge in the bottom of the rudder. Just cut a slit into the rudder and the tip of the fuselage. Slid it into place and CA'd. Yes, I'm going slow!

I did go to fly today, took my Switch and my MUS. Soo windy that as I turned final with the MUS, I had to nose down and add a lot of power to go forward. Hmmm, OK time to land. All is safe, but only got 1 trip around the patch.

Don
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 06:22 PM
I need a bigger shed..
sammyc's Avatar
Australia, TAS, Launceston
Joined Nov 2011
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My Esc (the 70A one) only blocks about half of the airway in the nose in the stock location. There's still plenty of room, as the air will be forced in a bit, and the rest of the electronics don't need so much cooling as the motor and esc. I'll need to check the temp of the esc in stock location tho when I get new motor. It's big enough so I doubt it will be an issue getting rid of heat
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 09:19 PM
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United States, FL, The Villages
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My oh my! My ESC is in a hole the exact size as the ESC itself. JAMMED in there. Mine is the 70A also.

I have many things to do, and the absolute biggest thing is figuring out that DX8! I "thought" it would be similar to the way the DX6i sets up. No way! The booklet runs you through the most part, but the DR & EXPO stuff is weird. That silly graph thing shows different values for either side of center. ????

Don
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 10:01 PM
I need a bigger shed..
sammyc's Avatar
Australia, TAS, Launceston
Joined Nov 2011
1,498 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkrhardy View Post
My oh my! My ESC is in a hole the exact size as the ESC itself. JAMMED in there. Mine is the 70A also.

I have many things to do, and the absolute biggest thing is figuring out that DX8! I "thought" it would be similar to the way the DX6i sets up. No way! The booklet runs you through the most part, but the DR & EXPO stuff is weird. That silly graph thing shows different values for either side of center. ????

Don
Mines only half the size of the hole (looking at profile), mounted sitting flat. But jammed by the sides. Hmm I haven't looked at mine for a while, I'll confirm when I get home tonight. Strange!
Good luck with your Tx
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 05:12 AM
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avolkoff's Avatar
Joined Jan 2012
11 Posts
hi all,

I'm about to pull the trigger and place an order on HK. Please advise what else should I buy:
1. some stock pros and cowls.
2. 14x7 prop
3. anything else? replacement servos?
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