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Have you checked the temperature of the motor during a typical run? Too much heat will melt the glue holding the magnets and / or holding the wire windings and will cause issues!
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Latest blog entry: E-Flite Retracts & Amplified...
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C
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Latest blog entry: E-Flite Retracts & Amplified...
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I would really like to buy this plane, but do NOT like the RimFire motor. I'd like to install my EF Power10, but wondering if there is enough room (length) to accommodate it? If not, can the cowl be moved forward? Thanks! |
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It looks like you may be able to move it forward eprox 1/4" if you can get it detached from the cowling. It comes preglued in the cowling and is very brittle. I had to enlarge the whole in the center for my motor, and I cut out between the cylinders for air flow and made pushrods for mine. It splits very easily. The picture below has the Rimfire motor. I have since installed an Exceed 480 with an 50 amp ESC since the Rimefire fried.
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There's 1/2" of space between the preglued ring and the end of cow. As RMCCOR7737 mentioned, 1/4" maybe ideal. see pic below.
EF Power 10 will likely cause CG issue. The recommended motor is comparable to Park 480. I'll be interested to find out if/when you decide to install Power 10 motor. |
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I can also see how the cowl can be moved forward by adding magnetic spacers. I would agree that cutting the the cowl prop opening would be a last resort. |
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[QUOTE=EF Power 10 will likely cause CG issue. The recommended motor is comparable to Park 480. I'll be interested to find out if/when you decide to install Power 10 motor.[/QUOTE]
From my experience, CG is often corrected with LiPo positioning. Besides, there is at least one opinion out there that the plane is tail heavy. We shall see. |
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I am planning on doing the same when I get my SS. I'm curious about mounting the Power 10. Did you use PZ motor mount, or just an x-bracket? How about the length of the motor interfering with the cowl/prop opening? Thanks! |
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I used a standard x bracket. I cut about 1/2 inch out of the middle of the SS wooden structure that the motor mounts to. Look at my photo and comments in report #105 of this thread on page 7. I used a caliper ($10) and measured how far each corner of the motor structure is from the front of the fuse firewall, so I could ensure, I kept the down/right angle the same when I glued the wooden nose structure back together. I used a piece of modeling lumber and laid it against the front of the fuse firewall and used it as a straight edge to ensure I had good straight lines where I would cut. I used a piece of modeling lumber 1/2 inch wider then the first to draw the second set of lines, then cut out the center between the lines. See the photo when it was finished.
Pointer to page 7: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1422570&page=7 |
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Wow, what a different plane!
I installed a gyro in my SS yesterday. Went out to fly her this morning. I didn't think it was the same plane. On take of I only needed to input a small amount of rudder myself, the gyro kept her straight and steady. No wiggy waggy take offs anymore for me mister. With the mods I made this 44.8oz plane feels like a cub flying. Flew straight as an arrow at half throttle. No trimming needed. Still have to land a little hot though. I ran out of runway and nosed over in the grass. The flex from the touch down broke the LG skirt loose. No big deal there though. They don't have any room for flex at the exit where the gear comes out of the plastic fairing. I may mod that as well. All and all, I think I really like this plane now and feel it will become one of my keepers as long as it remains in one piece.
Mods made: Exceed 480 910kv motor vs. recommended Rimfire 1250kv 50 amp ESC vs. recommended 35amp 10x7 SF prop vs. 10x7 speed prop More down and right thrust on motor about 3 deg down and right Detrum GY192 head lock gyro vs. butt load of right rudder on take off. |
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