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Old Oct 16, 2011, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ons_pk View Post
Hyperterminal is not working.

How Can I find out the frame repeat rate.
It's the second column in the SETUP display.
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Old Oct 16, 2011, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by miru View Post
What do you mean by that? Don't you compile rx2atp.c with it?
I followed UFO-DR PDF instructions as below.

- Start Ardunio 0022
- Select “Tools”
- Select “board”: Ardunio Pro or Pro Mini (5V,16MHz) w/ATmega 328
- Select “serial port”: Com port xx (in our case: COM8)
- Select sketch
- add file
- select rx2atp.c (the downloaded Miru program!)
- upload
- Observe the blinking LED at the FTDI; finally you should get the message:
“Done uploading”
Congratulations, you are a very lucky programmer with the appropriate hardware
material and you may proceed to the next steps.
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Old Oct 16, 2011, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ons_pk View Post
I followed UFO-DR PDF instructions as below.

- Start Ardunio 0022
- Select “Tools”
- Select “board”: Ardunio Pro or Pro Mini (5V,16MHz) w/ATmega 328
- Select “serial port”: Com port xx (in our case: COM8)
- Select sketch
- add file
- select rx2atp.c (the downloaded Miru program!)
- upload
- Observe the blinking LED at the FTDI; finally you should get the message:
“Done uploading”
Congratulations, you are a very lucky programmer with the appropriate hardware
material and you may proceed to the next steps.
Good, so you are using the Arduino IDE 0022.
You wrote 'it is not working' ...What is not working?
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Old Oct 16, 2011, 05:07 PM
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Both Arduino IDE 0022 and Hyperterminal it is not working now. Yesterday it was working.
I am using Win XP.
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Old Oct 16, 2011, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ons_pk View Post
Both Arduino IDE 0022 and Hyperterminal it is not working now. Yesterday it was working.
I am using Win XP.
Did you disconnect the drone?
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Old Oct 16, 2011, 08:16 PM
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Can someone explain the differences between the 4 configurations? I know flight mode 2 disables the downward looking cam, but is is possible to disable the height sensor? How about the auto leveling accelerometers? I am trying some expo now but it still seems it is a bit too "jumpy" at times. Seems if the level setting isn't exactly level, it will always drift.
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Old Oct 16, 2011, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by techspy View Post
Can someone explain the differences between the 4 configurations? I know flight mode 2 disables the downward looking cam, but is is possible to disable the height sensor? How about the auto leveling accelerometers? I am trying some expo now but it still seems it is a bit too "jumpy" at times. Seems if the level setting isn't exactly level, it will always drift.
Operate the drone with your iDev, and go to the tools screen. There you can setup if you are flying indoors or outdoors, what hull you are using and how aggressive you want your maneuvers to be interpreted (Euler angle max, yaw speed max ...). The 4 configurations in the miru mod give you different mixes of those parameters, you can always edit the 'sketch' to change them. The 'default' set I put in is:
1) North - Normal, the parameters I used before there were choices
2) East - Easy, an indoor/beginner set
3) South - Standard, the indoor standard from Parrot
4) West - Wild, everything turned up to the max
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Old Oct 16, 2011, 10:22 PM
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Ah ok so they are all variations of what you can set in the config screen. Thanks
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Old Oct 16, 2011, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by techspy View Post
Ah ok so they are all variations of what you can set in the config screen. Thanks
There is no disable anything in the configurations. There is also no way to disable the ultrasonic sensor if you are flying below 6 Meters altitude (above the drone firmware ignores it...). The only thing the mirumod can do is to disable the feedback of the down looking camera. You get that when you switch into FM2 or move the cyclic out of 00 when in FM1. This is equivalent to holding down your finger to the screen of the iDev.
So far, I have not seen any benefit in setting any curves in the TX, but then I am just a moderate pilot who is still struggling to keep a heli in place when it is upside down...
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Old Oct 16, 2011, 11:28 PM
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Gotcha. I like mode 2 best. Using the down looking cam seems to cause it to jerk around sometimes, especially when there isn't a lot of pattern in the floor or low light. I fly most of my other quads/hexas/tris without the auto level feature on. Auto level is fine when it is accurate but I can never seem to get them calibrated level enough not to drift. Wish I could turn that off.
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Old Oct 17, 2011, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by miru View Post
Did you disconnect the drone?
I did disconnect the drone from the IPhone, and from the USB wire.
should I disconnect the mod from drone as well?

To make it work,
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Old Oct 17, 2011, 04:56 AM
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Any Idea how

at2so and avrpgb used,

I connot figure out why my cyclic is not working

I am on drs009

Drone 1.4.7
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Old Oct 17, 2011, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by ons_pk View Post
Any Idea how

at2so and avrpgb used,

I connot figure out why my cyclic is not working

I am on drs009

Drone 1.4.7
Read the README file and see if there is something we might have overlooked, it will also explain what at2so and avrpgb are for. I also noticed you are running fairly old software on the Drone and are not using the latest version of this mod.
Still am waiting for an answer to the framerate of the 11x.
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Old Oct 17, 2011, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by miru View Post
Read the README file and see if there is something we might have overlooked, it will also explain what at2so and avrpgb are for. I also noticed you are running fairly old software on the Drone and are not using the latest version of this mod.
Still am waiting for an answer to the framerate of the 11x.
Thanks Miru for your help.

The reason I have 1.4.7, is that when I received the drone I updated the to 1.7.6 and I was not able to fly because of the Motor Emergency. When I downgraded I was able to fly with my IPhone. Which one would you recommend to update to?

Further another question, to use HyperTerminal or Ardunio DO I have to disconnect the Mod from the Drone?

One more thing I noticed is tha;;;;; in one of your mirumodsetup.pdf file.

AUX1 up -> negative values
AUX1 center -> 0
AUX1 down -> positive values

if AUX1 = 0 -> normal, 'rx2at' launches/lands drone according to what GEAR says
if AUX1 > 0 -> sends FTRIM/LED/COMWDG command to drone, return it to center once
you see the LED on the drone blink. 'rx2at' will not launch the
drone if this switch is not in the center position.
if AUX1 < 0 -> EMERGENCY, sends ESTOP to drone, if you are in the air when you
hit this it will kill the motors and drop out of the air. If you
are on the ground, it merely resets a previously encountered
EMERGENCY (drone LEDs go red and back to green when you switch
back to center).

So It could be that the setup of AUX1 travel and direct may be hindering me to use the cyclic?
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Old Oct 17, 2011, 12:04 PM
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ons_pk, something got miscommunicated here, let's start fresh...

RULE #1: the Arduino is connected to the PC OR to the drone. Never to both at the same time.
RULE #2: when the Arduino is connected to the PC, you can only have 1 program service the COM port, Arduino IDE OR Hyperterminal. Switching between the two always involves terminating the one that is currently running.

To figure out the PC COM port the Arduino (FTDI) is connected to, use the Arduino IDE <Tools><Serial port>. If it can download the 'sketch' to the port selected, this is it! XP makes an effort to keep track of what USB dingy got assigned to what COM port and will use the same COM port when you disconnect and reconnect the device.

It looks like your TX has a 3 position switch, which you can put on the AUX1 channel. This is what the DX7, I have, has, so use the original rx2atp.c WITHOUT any modifications (fresh copy!).
  1. Wire your RX to the Arduino.
  2. Install a temporary jumper between a ground pin and the pin labelled D10 on the Arduino.
  3. Hook up the Arduino to the PC, start the Arduino IDE, set the COM port and the processor <Tools><Board><Arduino Pro... 5V/16Mhz 328). Then <Sketch><Add File...> and select the fresh copy of rx2atp.c and hit the upload button. There should be NO error messages,just the message about how big the sketch is when it is done compiling and starting the upload. Wait until it says 'Upload done'.
  4. Check the Arduino LED, it should be blinking 5 times, pause, blink 5 times... indicating that it is waiting for the start character.
  5. Quit the Arduino IDE
  6. Start Hyperterminal and configure it so it uses the same COM port the Arduino IDE was using. The hardware setup is 115200 baud, 8 bits, 1 stop, handshake NONE. Then make sure Hyperterminal is 'connected' (status line bottom left).
  7. Type CTRL-B (Control and 'b' at the same time). This should start the SETUP GUI on the Arduino.
  8. Check the CPU signature (fourth line down) it should be green and read 1E950F to indicate an Atmega 328 and also check the fuse bytes, they are in hex and the order is <high fuse>-<low fuse>-<extended fuse>-<lockbits>. On mine they read DA-FF-FD-CF, your's might be different, but we'll have to check with the datasheet to make sure the Atmega is not running at half speed...
  9. Check the dcnt value in line 3, it should be 2663. It is the result of the delay calibration, if it is off by more than 2, something is definitely wrong.
  10. Check the sampling of the 6 channels, at least one or all of them should be RED, indicating that theres is no connection to the TX. If you get all green, this means you have not setup 'failsave' properly, this can be remedied later... The numbers for each channel are the framerate, the pulse duration and the programs translation of the pulse duration into a value.
  11. Turn on TX, the channel display should go all green.
  12. Check the AUX1 channel, this is where the switch comes in. If you switch it, the value is interpreted as LAND/FM_1/FM_2 (neg/0/pos). The way I set things up, I want LAND when the switch is down, FM_1 if it is center and FM_2 when it is up. You might have to reverse the polarity of the channel in the TX to get that.
  13. Then check your sticks (upper 4 channels), they need to be independent of each other (no mixing), if you move the cyclic left, the AILE channel needs to go negative, right positive, center 0. Make sure no other channel is responding to that stick! When you move the cyclic up, the ELEV channel should go negative, positive on down and center 0. Throttle up make THRO channel go positive and rudder left makes RUDD negative. Check that all channels do the same thing no matter what position the AUX1 switch is in.
  14. If all this is working, power everything down, disconnect the jumper to D10 and the FTDI board. Then hook up the drone and see what you get.
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