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Old Feb 02, 2013, 05:27 PM
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I asked my orange rx dealer about these he won't supply them due to reliability issues? Just throwing a warning out there

Also one of my resellers was looking to use them with my kits, when he actually went to order the shipping was extortionate and it actually hardly worked out any cheaper than a Spektrum DX6i that was shipping inside the US too

Its a shame as it would be nice to have a cheaper DSM2 radio
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by SJW2511 View Post
I asked my orange rx dealer about these he won't supply them due to reliability issues? Just throwing a warning out there

Also one of my resellers was looking to use them with my kits, when he actually went to order the shipping was extortionate and it actually hardly worked out any cheaper than a Spektrum DX6i that was shipping inside the US too

Its a shame as it would be nice to have a cheaper DSM2 radio
Well it cost me less then $100.00 to Canada no taxes or duty.
I had a broken switch on my DX6i and contacted Horizonhobby and they told me to send it in. Shipping to the US + shipping back + the part and labor? That would cost me over $50.00. So, I bought a Futaba switch for $7.00 and fixed it myself.

Besides I rather have an OrangeRX T-six then those cheap CTB6's. Also, the OrangeRX 6 channel have a pretty good track record.

Anyway, I just wanted to offer a LESS expensive alternative to the DX6i. Remember, they are still both made in China!
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 06:57 PM
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Dude I'm only pointing out what my orange supplier told me. I wanted to use one too due to its price but he warned me off them. Why would he not want to sell me something?

I agree it's probably better than the ctb6 but the ctb6 isn't an option for kits needing dsm2 so that's irrelevant
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SJW2511 View Post
Dude I'm only pointing out what my orange supplier told me. I wanted to use one too due to its price but he warned me off them. Why would he not want to sell me something?

I agree it's probably better than the ctb6 but the ctb6 isn't an option for kits needing dsm2 so that's irrelevant
Okay
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 09:50 AM
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Dear miru !
Some problems that I can not understand 。can you tell me。

1: My AR.Drone is v1.0 . how can i upload drone firmware to version 1.7.11 or 1.10.10
2: need some modification ? such as the following page http://code.google.com/p/ardudrone/w...eModifications
3: can you gei me the USB Brush software
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by NDT_UTS_LU View Post
Dear miru !
Some problems that I can not understand 。can you tell me。

1: My AR.Drone is v1.0 . how can i upload drone firmware to version 1.7.11 or 1.10.10
2: need some modification ? such as the following page http://code.google.com/p/ardudrone/w...eModifications
3: can you gei me the USB Brush software
The project you are referencing has been abandoned and is not active anymore.
Check www.mirumod.tk for this project.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 11:12 AM
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Hi, am I missing something to change configuration between 1-2-3-4 ????
I start everything up, then wait a while for lights to flash. Then I check I a connected with a flat trim which works great. Put throttle stick all way up but nothing flashes, tried with gear uop or down... any hint?
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 11:47 AM
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Hi, am I missing something to change configuration between 1-2-3-4 ????
I start everything up, then wait a while for lights to flash. Then I check I a connected with a flat trim which works great. Put throttle stick all way up but nothing flashes, tried with gear uop or down... any hint?
The only way to change configs is to set the switch to the LAND position and hold the throttle in the up position. Then you move and hold the elevation stick to either N,S, E or W to select your confguration. Now move the throttle back down and release the elevator stick. You should be in you selected config. Best way to test this is to do it in SETUP mod.

Let me know if this helped you.

Dante1
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by dante1 View Post
The only way to change configs is to set the switch to the LAND position and hold the throttle in the up position. Then you move and hold the elevation stick to either N,S, E or W to select your confguration. Now move the throttle back down and release the elevator stick. You should be in you selected config. Best way to test this is to do it in SETUP mod.

Let me know if this helped you.

Dante1
I wasn't holding right long enough!!!!
Thanks, worked well!

About USB record, can the drive have other stuff on it or blank only?
Also can the drive be inserted later on or need to power drone back up?
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by realbob View Post
I wasn't holding right long enough!!!!
Thanks, worked well!

About USB record, can the drive have other stuff on it or blank only?
Also can the drive be inserted later on or need to power drone back up?
I guess one way to find out is to try it.
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 09:34 AM
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Actually, it's the same bootloader but sometimes it's not burned in properly and give wrong lock fuse bits example CC instead of CF.
I don't take chances take a couple extra minutes.
What are those fuses for and effect on the mod?
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 09:44 AM
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What are those fuses for and effect on the mod?
From what I read, Fuses and Lock bits to enable/disable features and/or different memory protection modes. This may be the cause of the solid LED on the arduino which prevents the companion program to start. Because after burning the bootloader again, it solved my problems.

http://www.avrfreaks.net/modules/Fre...382/DN_020.pdf

Pawelsky or Miru, please correct me if I am wrong.
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by dante1 View Post
From what I read, Fuses and Lock bits to enable/disable features and/or different memory protection modes. This may be the cause of the solid LED on the arduino which prevents the companion program to start. Because after burning the bootloader again, it solved my problems.

http://www.avrfreaks.net/modules/Fre...382/DN_020.pdf

Pawelsky or Miru, please correct me if I am wrong.
so you had solid red lights after you plug in the power, no blinks?
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by dante1 View Post
From what I read, Fuses and Lock bits to enable/disable features and/or different memory protection modes. This may be the cause of the solid LED on the arduino which prevents the companion program to start. Because after burning the bootloader again, it solved my problems.

http://www.avrfreaks.net/modules/Fre...382/DN_020.pdf

Pawelsky or Miru, please correct me if I am wrong.
Here you can find some nice explanation of the Fuse/Lock bits + calculator.

http://hackaday.com/2012/08/30/avr-fuse-bits-explained/

It is not clear however that the different lock bits we've seen in this thread are actually causing issues (they should cause much much serious problems such as no being able to upload the skech, but they didn't) so no definite answers here I believe. It does not hurt however to changed to the right values.
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by gta18 View Post
so you had solid red lights after you plug in the power, no blinks?
I would get blinking lights but as soon as i switch on the tx, i would get a flashing red led go solid. I burn the stock bootloader in the arduino software and it solved the problem. But pnly happened to maybe 3 arduinos.
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