HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Dec 15, 2012, 11:47 AM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2012
204 Posts
That's exactly what mine was doing but the solid light on the arduino would light bright but never go out and start the program
SJW2511 is offline Find More Posts by SJW2511
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Dec 15, 2012, 12:21 PM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2012
7 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dante1 View Post
They seem fine to me.
can you take a picture of your Level converter? Just to be sure it is wired correctly.
Please don't get me wrong, I am not judging your ability. But I have built many kits and occasionaly reversed a wire and fried my mainboard.
Sure, the green wire goes to pin6, and the blue to pin4
Pappjeger is offline Find More Posts by Pappjeger
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 15, 2012, 12:32 PM
XR-4Drone.com
Joined May 2011
324 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pappjeger View Post
Sure, the green wire goes to pin6, and the blue to pin4
Looks good to me.
dante1 is offline Find More Posts by dante1
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 15, 2012, 12:45 PM
Registered User
pawelsky's Avatar
Polska
Joined Jan 2012
1,418 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pappjeger View Post
Sure, the green wire goes to pin6, and the blue to pin4
Hmmm....can't see it well, can you tell me the number written on resistors of the levelshifter? is it 103?
pawelsky is online now Find More Posts by pawelsky
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 15, 2012, 01:28 PM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2012
7 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pawelsky View Post
Hmmm....can't see it well, can you tell me the number written on resistors of the levelshifter? is it 103?
To me it looks like 01C or 01[ ?
Pappjeger is offline Find More Posts by Pappjeger
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 15, 2012, 04:00 PM
Registered User
pawelsky's Avatar
Polska
Joined Jan 2012
1,418 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pappjeger View Post
To me it looks like 01C or 01[ ?
01c is 10kohm so this is ok
pawelsky is online now Find More Posts by pawelsky
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 15, 2012, 04:34 PM
Registered User
United States, VA, Centreville
Joined Oct 2012
8 Posts
Nano Issues

I have posted issues regarding the Nano before. I abandoned use of the Nano for the Mirumod in favor of the Pro Mini as a result. I have built a half dozen for me and friends. Prior to my decision to go with the Pro Mini, I had obtained several Nano units from Gravitech who are the "creators" of the Nano format if I am not mistaken. The so called Chinese Nano clones started from the Gravitech design I believe. There has been a design change along the way going from the 3.0 to 3.1 (may or may not be relevant). I do not have any 3.0 version Nano units - only 3.1.

I believe VERY STRONGLY the issue on the Nano is with the configuration of the FTDI circuitry built onto the Nano. The Nano serial interface is "shared" with the TTL side of the FTDI USB to serial circuit. My measurements (logic probes, O-scope, meters, the works) indicate the pull-up configuration on the TTL side of the FTDI cannot be overcome with the "weak" level conversion with the Sparkfun BOB configuration. On the Nano's I have, the pull-up configuration remains active when USB is disconnected with the board being powered via "Raw" or 5V VCC (as it would be when the AR Drone is flying). Without the FTDI on board (which is what the Pro Mini is . . .), everything works perfectly.

I have breadboarded the Mirumod based on the Nano and the Pro Mini side by side with near identical layouts, had them checked by others and had others build them up from scratch. The implementation based on the Pro Mini has worked each time - where every trial - with several different Nano units - have failed.
gtsullivan is offline Find More Posts by gtsullivan
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 15, 2012, 05:03 PM
Registered User
United States, VA, Centreville
Joined Oct 2012
8 Posts
Pictures of my Mirumod PCB based implementation using Pro-Mini

Name: photo 1.JPG
Views: 73
Size: 39.3 KB
Description:

Name: photo 2.JPG
Views: 100
Size: 44.5 KB
Description:

I have a couple of AR Drone 2 units. I do not have an AR Drone 1.

The receiver is the HK TR6A-V2 where I removed it from the plastic enclosure (obviously), and removed the pin-headers, adding back only those needed for my PCB board version of the Mirumod. This format allows me to plug and unplug simply. No cut-outs on the Drone foam required and there is room "under" the plastic sheet on the bottom of the drone. The unmounted components on the upper left are are for a cable connection to a GPS and a small switching supply to provide separate 5V or 3.3V for the GPS.

Per my previous post regarding issues with the Nano, I had created boards to use the Nano as well. As I noted, they never worked. So, I happily use the Pro Mini instead.

George
gtsullivan is offline Find More Posts by gtsullivan
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 15, 2012, 05:08 PM
Registered User
France, PCh, Poitiers
Joined Oct 2011
80 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtsullivan View Post
Attachment 5375076

Attachment 5375077

I have a couple of AR Drone 2 units. I do not have an AR Drone 1.

The receiver is the HK TR6A-V2 where I removed it from the plastic enclosure (obviously), and removed the pin-headers, adding back only those needed for my PCB board version of the Mirumod. This format allows me to plug and unplug simply. No cut-outs on the Drone foam required and there is room "under" the plastic sheet on the bottom of the drone. The unmounted components on the upper left are are for a cable connection to a GPS and a small switching supply to provide separate 5V or 3.3V for the GPS.

Per my previous post regarding issues with the Nano, I had created boards to use the Nano as well. As I noted, they never worked. So, I happily use the Pro Mini instead.

George
Wow!! Good job!
Fioulmaster is offline Find More Posts by Fioulmaster
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 16, 2012, 08:39 AM
Registered User
pawelsky's Avatar
Polska
Joined Jan 2012
1,418 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtsullivan View Post
I have posted issues regarding the Nano before. I abandoned use of the Nano for the Mirumod in favor of the Pro Mini as a result. I have built a half dozen for me and friends. Prior to my decision to go with the Pro Mini, I had obtained several Nano units from Gravitech who are the "creators" of the Nano format if I am not mistaken. The so called Chinese Nano clones started from the Gravitech design I believe. There has been a design change along the way going from the 3.0 to 3.1 (may or may not be relevant). I do not have any 3.0 version Nano units - only 3.1.

I believe VERY STRONGLY the issue on the Nano is with the configuration of the FTDI circuitry built onto the Nano. The Nano serial interface is "shared" with the TTL side of the FTDI USB to serial circuit. My measurements (logic probes, O-scope, meters, the works) indicate the pull-up configuration on the TTL side of the FTDI cannot be overcome with the "weak" level conversion with the Sparkfun BOB configuration. On the Nano's I have, the pull-up configuration remains active when USB is disconnected with the board being powered via "Raw" or 5V VCC (as it would be when the AR Drone is flying). Without the FTDI on board (which is what the Pro Mini is . . .), everything works perfectly.

I have breadboarded the Mirumod based on the Nano and the Pro Mini side by side with near identical layouts, had them checked by others and had others build them up from scratch. The implementation based on the Pro Mini has worked each time - where every trial - with several different Nano units - have failed.
I've read that there was a problem (http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php?topic=23025.0) on older versions of nano boards (confirmed by Gravitech), that the TEST pin 26 of the FTDI chip was not grounded (while it should) causing the FTDI chip instabilities. I remember discussing that with miru some time ago and as far as I remember both mine (3.1 from Gravitech) and his had this pin grounded.

However I've purchased a cheap Nano clone recently (which is version 3.0) and it does not have FTDI pin 26 grounded. Wonder if that could have anything to do with the connection problems that people are observing.
pawelsky is online now Find More Posts by pawelsky
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 16, 2012, 09:13 AM
Registered User
Vista, CA
Joined Feb 2008
1,208 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pawelsky View Post
I've read that there was a problem (http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php?topic=23025.0) on older versions of nano boards (confirmed by Gravitech), that the TEST pin 26 of the FTDI chip was not grounded (while it should) causing the FTDI chip instabilities. I remember discussing that with miru some time ago and as far as I remember both mine (3.1 from Gravitech) and his had this pin grounded.

However I've purchased a cheap Nano clone recently (which is version 3.0) and it does not have FTDI pin 26 grounded. Wonder if that could have anything to do with the connection problems that people are observing.
Pin 25 (right next to 26) should be on GND so this can be fixed without major effort.
miru is offline Find More Posts by miru
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 16, 2012, 09:34 AM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2012
2,522 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SJW2511 View Post
That's exactly what mine was doing but the solid light on the arduino would light bright but never go out and start the program
It sounds like yours are good candidates for the fix test. Maybe shorting pins 26 and 25 would solve your problem?

Brandigan is offline Find More Posts by Brandigan
Last edited by Brandigan; Dec 16, 2012 at 09:45 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 16, 2012, 10:35 AM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2012
7 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtsullivan View Post
Attachment 5375076

Attachment 5375077

I have a couple of AR Drone 2 units. I do not have an AR Drone 1.

The receiver is the HK TR6A-V2 where I removed it from the plastic enclosure (obviously), and removed the pin-headers, adding back only those needed for my PCB board version of the Mirumod. This format allows me to plug and unplug simply. No cut-outs on the Drone foam required and there is room "under" the plastic sheet on the bottom of the drone. The unmounted components on the upper left are are for a cable connection to a GPS and a small switching supply to provide separate 5V or 3.3V for the GPS.

Per my previous post regarding issues with the Nano, I had created boards to use the Nano as well. As I noted, they never worked. So, I happily use the Pro Mini instead.

George
I cut the nano free from all the wires. clearly it dosent like that at all. I tried an ebay clone of the pro-mini. It is from Tinyos electronics. Funnyest thing happend: It seems to work It seems to be allright when I hold it in my hand. Too dark in Norway to try it outside. I will try tomorrow if its not too windy.
Me so happy, I will love this thing loong time
Pappjeger is offline Find More Posts by Pappjeger
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 16, 2012, 10:51 AM
XR-4Drone.com
Joined May 2011
324 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by miru View Post
Pin 25 (right next to 26) should be on GND so this can be fixed without major effort.
That's a great find!
dante1 is offline Find More Posts by dante1
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 16, 2012, 11:04 AM
XR-4Drone.com
Joined May 2011
324 Posts
Just bridged the two pins and with a fine tip... easy as pie.
Name: Nano.jpg
Views: 128
Size: 177.7 KB
Description:
dante1 is offline Find More Posts by dante1
Last edited by dante1; Dec 16, 2012 at 11:16 AM.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Mini-HowTo RC Controlled AR.Drone w/o WiFi! nosaari Multirotor Talk 116 Mar 14, 2014 02:23 PM
For Sale Parrot AR Drone w/TX/RX mod *Flies Nice* Z06 Tony Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 4 Apr 16, 2011 09:42 PM
Discussion Wifi Boosted AR.Drone Fallengod Multirotor Talk 7 Feb 12, 2011 10:52 AM
Discussion And yet another AR drone Arial Video project taudronis Multirotor Talk 17 Dec 07, 2010 11:04 AM
Sold Parrot AR.Drone Four rotor platform control with your iPodTouch/iPhone/iPad Hoverup Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 0 Oct 12, 2010 03:54 PM