Originally Posted by Fioulmaster

Cool!
Did you tested in flight?
Nothing to configure the module?
Is it possible that you do a mini-tutorial for this module?

No, too cold to fly outdoors in my area. Did not have to configure anything, just connected and got the BMP readings as expected. For the HMC I guess I'll need to do some calibration. I guess it is too early for tutorials yet.

Originally Posted by pawelsky

No, too cold to fly outdoors in my area. Did not have to configure anything, just connected and got the BMP readings as expected. For the HMC I guess I'll need to do some calibration. I guess it is too early for tutorials yet.

Ok, i Will buy it at the end of month.

Originally Posted by pawelsky

You need to disconnect the cable that goes from the mod to a socket at the bottom of the Drone.

Thank you. Sorry for late reply.
I started making the mod. I am still confused about that. After i unplug it,is the GPS signal still transfer back to my PC through ARDrone wifi?

Originally Posted by solarprism

Thank you. Sorry for late reply.
I started making the mod. I am still confused about that. After i unplug it,is the GPS signal still transfer back to my PC through ARDrone wifi?

No, GPS is connected to the mod, so if you unplug the mod from the Drone it can't transfer the data.

Not sure if this is the correct place to post this, but here goes: it is known that the Drone 1 has more power and greater lift capacity than the Drone 2. The assumption is that this is due to firmware that limits the Drone 2 to 80% power to maintain a power reserve for flip recovery. If this is true how would one go about hacking the firmware to boost motor power?

Originally Posted by pawelsky

Miru will surely be able to give more pros for this shifter, but I can see at least 4
1) proper reference voltage for the IO levels coming from the regulator (either 1.8V or 3.3V) which I guess shall make it more stable
2) drone plug can be soldered directly to it, so it can serve as plug. This also limits the chances of getting wires wrong.
3) if you prefer keep it on Arduino's side - it fits nicely the GND/VIN/TX/RX pins. Again, less chances to have wiring wrong.
4) the diode is built in.

Oke thanks, that sounds sweet and I'd definitely order one or two then

Originally Posted by VytasandRio

Not sure if this is the correct place to post this, but here goes: it is known that the Drone 1 has more power and greater lift capacity than the Drone 2.

Any links to where this is documented? Have people measured the maximum lifting capacity of both? What props were they using?

I read that the D2 props had a steeper profile than the old D1 props, for better recovery after flips. Apparently, putting old style D1 props on a D2 and it won't flip nearly as well. Don't know if that's true though. Could be just packaging.

Can't buy the old D1 props any more, probably to avoid that problem (if true), as this online listing explains:

"These Propellors are now for both Parrot AR.Drone models 1.0 and 2.0. The Parrot AR.Drone 1.0 propellors have now been discontinued so please use these for your AR.Drone 1.0 and 2.0."

Originally Posted by VytasandRio

Not sure if this is the correct place to post this, but here goes: it is known that the Drone 1 has more power and greater lift capacity than the Drone 2. The assumption is that this is due to firmware that limits the Drone 2 to 80% power to maintain a power reserve for flip recovery. If this is true how would one go about hacking the firmware to boost motor power?

Flipping the Drone 2 requires that the battery be above 50% ( I think that is the number ). Using supplied batteries seems to be able to do flips during the first two minutes of flight. I bought some 1300 Mah 45-90 C nano-tech batteries from Hobby King...besides giving me over 10 minutes of flying time...I am able to flip the drone well past the 5 min mark.

Originally Posted by SJW2511

so just hyperterminal then?

but you think it should be ready to go out the box anyway?

Yes, at least that is what my UP501 did.

Originally Posted by dante1

Hey Miru, do you by any chance have the proper bootloader for the Arduino Nano? I checked a couple of my arduino nano and they have a CC lock bit and from another supply lockbit is CF. I contacted my supplier and he said that there was nothing wrong with the lockbit.

Thanks

According to the processor datasheet lock bits CC inhibit further programming of the flash and eerom. You want them to be CF (bit 1,0 NOT programmed). I use the bootloader from the Arduino IDE.

Originally Posted by pawelsky

Miru will surely be able to give more pros for this shifter, but I can see at least 4
1) proper reference voltage for the IO levels coming from the regulator (either 1.8V or 3.3V) which I guess shall make it more stable
2) drone plug can be soldered directly to it, so it can serve as plug. This also limits the chances of getting wires wrong.
3) if you prefer keep it on Arduino's side - it fits nicely the GND/VIN/TX/RX pins. Again, less chances to have wiring wrong.
4) the diode is built in.

5) uses a MOSFET that can reliably deal with the 1.8V.

Originally Posted by Fioulmaster

Cool!
Did you tested in flight?
Nothing to configure the module?
Is it possible that you do a mini-tutorial for this module?

I wait your full return to click "BUY".


MIRU?! Do you think it will be possible to use this module on a D1 in the near future with the GPS?

It is independent of the GPS. I am working on integrating it as well as the HMC5883 magnetometer. Happul3 got the barometer working and uses it to stabilize altitude if you leave the throttle stick alone for 4 seconds. Unfortunately it takes a lot of code space to deal with these extra sensors, which means the ccompanion program would have to be installed on the drone...

RE: gps again, i hooked it straight into the arduino pro mini, and a chip on it got very hot, im assuming that is whats meant when it states the pro mini cannot handle the load.

could i wire the gps 5v and gnd into the LLC would that handle it?

Originally Posted by miru

It is independent of the GPS. I am working on integrating it as well as the HMC5883 magnetometer. Happul3 got the barometer working and uses it to stabilize altitude if you leave the throttle stick alone for 4 seconds. Unfortunately it takes a lot of code space to deal with these extra sensors, which means the ccompanion program would have to be installed on the drone...

Ok. Thanks for the response.

Originally Posted by SJW2511

RE: gps again, i hooked it straight into the arduino pro mini, and a chip on it got very hot, im assuming that is whats meant when it states the pro mini cannot handle the load.

could i wire the gps 5v and gnd into the LLC would that handle it?

You must use a UBEC with pro-mini for power the gps.
See here for more infos.